GregValiant

I didn't think of it because it usually adds a chamfer that doesn't require support. In this case it seems to have filled the entire pocket.

Your startup gcode from that 3mf file looks good. The bed starts to heat, the hot end starts to heat, then the bed waits until it's up to temp, followed by the hot end waiting to get up to temp. After they are heated the print starts. If the printer isn't doing that then you might have to change to heating them separately as the firmware might not allow for them to heat together. It could be designed in because the power supply can't handle the load of both heaters starting together. You could try switching the order in the startup to: M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;start heating bed M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;wait for bed temperature M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;start heating hot end M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;wait for hot end Although I play around with virtual multi-extruders in Cura I don't actually have one. My practical knowledge of them is limited (read that as "zero") and I'm not comfortable to give advice on exactly how they should be configured. You need to do some experimenting. If you want to "Enable Prime Tower" then it would need to be done in Cura (Dual Extruder section, not the StartUp gcode) because there are moves over to the prime tower and then extrusions at the prime tower that have to be calculated and added to the gcode file as part of the toolpath. Rather than a full Prime Tower you might be able to get by with the Ooze Shield or a Draft Shield. They are away from the model and maybe the mess would take place over them instead of over the model. I suppose you could add some relative movement to your Extruder Start Gcodes. Moving in the Z is easy but moving in the X Y is tough because there is no way to know where to return to. When you have the Prime Tower enabled then Cura knows where it's going and where to return to for the start of the next extrusion.

It looks like it's something in your settings. In the Experimental section make sure "Make Overhangs Printable" is turned off. That one and remove holes are the only settings that should do this.

With the model loaded and Cura ready to slice use the "File | Save Project" command. That will create a project file with the model, your settings, and your printer. Post the 3mf file here. Since it's an IDEX you have two separate print heads and extruders?

I think your model needs some more work. If you subtracted cylinders from your model to make the pockets it would appear they were not done correctly. I would suggest you use the Setting Visibility too (to the right of the Setting Search box) and set the visibility to "All" so you can see what might be going on. I think it's a model issue though. You could post the STL file here.

M201 is MAX Accel. M205 is Jerk. There is no "Max" for Jerk. If you enable Acceleration control in Cura and if you enter 5000 for X and 5000 for Y within Printer Settings you would be allowed to enter up to 5000 for any acceleration setting in Cura without the box turning red. Cura would use those Accel numbers in its calculations and it is what Cura would put in the gcode file in an M204 line. But when your printer sees the M204 P5000 T5000 line it would say "Whoa...No Way" because internally M201 says Max X and Y acceleration is 750 and that is what the printer would use in IT'S calculations and the Cura estimate goes out the window. That's usually where the time discrepancy comes from. With Pronterface you can send M201 X5000 Y5000 M500 The Max acceleration of the printer would become 5000 for X and Y and would be saved as the new default. If your printer is a "bed slinger" like my Ender 3Pro then 5000 is much too high for the Y but if you were to do that and set the accel in Cura to 1000 then the Cura estimate would be closer to reality as the printer would use 1000 because it would be below the new Max. Both Cura and the printer would be using the same numbers (although maybe somewhat differently). I ain't saying this is perfect. And then there is Jerk. Jerk units are mm/sec and if you think about it as minimum speed around a corner it's easier to get your head around it. This post processor was written by someone else. It was never submitted to Ultimaker for inclusion into Cura. I use it and I like it because it has a "Fudge Factor" to adjust the Cura estimate to what the printer is actually doing. ShowProgress.zip Unzip the file and copy "ShowProgress.py" to "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.1.0\share\cura\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts". It will be available for you to load as a Post Processor. The fudge factor is "[Cura estimate]/[actual print time]". Figure it out and enter it in the proper box. A much closer estimate of time remaining should appear on the LCD via an M117 line added to the gcode. Mine looks like: 1/180 | ET 30M. I also added an M118 line so if you use it and have Pronterface running it bounces the same line back to Pronterface. Next, if you are running Windows I wrote this little app as a test for Accel and Jerk. It's interesting and may give you some insight into what your printer can actually handle. You have to be careful and start slow. It is possible to unlock the MAX values and to put in numbers that are high enough to hurt your printer. Some printers can handle much higher accelerations than others. Here is the download link to the aptly named Greg's Accel and Jerk Tool which is for Windows only and for Marlin type firmware. you can use it instead of Pronterface (it has a textbox for printer responses) and to print from the SD card IF the app works correctly for you.

Both of those problems are in the StartUp and Ending gcode from the TronXY X5SA definition file. That definition file was submitted to Ultimaker by an outside source. So this isn't a Cura problem but rather a change in the definition file by someone. It looks like it was done because the new definition has the G29 ABL command. The new StartUp Gcode waits for the bed leveling to complete before the hot end turns on. If it didn't the nozzle would be oozing filament across the build surface during leveling. Even though your 5.1 StartUp has the G29 command commented out, the other commands are configured as if it was working. You can put it back the way it was. Go to Manage Printers and then Machine Settings. The StartUp and End gcodes are there. You can copy and paste the old startup and ending codes from the previous version of Cura into Cura 5.1. Here are the lines from the 4.12 StartUp Gcode. The Cura keywords are replaced by your setting values when the gcode is created. M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0

@atlake247 This is a 2 year old thread. If your print is showing up off the build plate but the purge lines are OK then you might have "Origin at Center" checked in the Cura machine settings. In most cases it should be unchecked. It depends on the printer. If both the purge lines and the model are trying to print off the plate then the problem may be in the printer firmware as the Home Offsets determine where the gcode origin is placed. There might be something in your StartUp Gcode as well.

There was a poster here who prints custom ABS body parts for motorcycles. One of the issues he encountered was too much heat within the chamber as the part got taller. The printer was a one-off custom and the enclosure heater and fan system was designed to insure it stayed warm enough. There was no control for the enclosure becoming too hot. That required a rework of the enclosure system and he ended up having to drop the bed temperature during the print. That worked out as the upper layers of a part would solidify rather than staying mushy due to all the heat.

You are putting a lot of heat into it as well. Your layer cooling blower should be moving some of the hot air out of the center of the part but it's still a chimney that will keep the bed heat in and might effect the inside structure.

"Do you do much printing at 100% infill?" Rarely. I'm more of a 25% Grid with the Infill Line Multiplier = 3 and I use the line directions to get the infill square to the walls. Consider that at any density this will add strength in the X Y and Z where concentric at lower densities would not touch the outer walls and so would only add strength to a compression load in the Z. I didn't change anything but the infill pattern. You can see that Infill Line Multiplier doesn't work with Concentric.

In regards to the "different quality exterior than interior" I don't see that on my prints. What I do see when the printer is working on islands is that the travel moves can leave marks on the interior as the nozzle moves from one island to the next. Sometimes there are the Cotton Candy type of strings stuck to the inside walls. Changing the combing doesn't help because there must be a crossing of the gap someplace.

If you make the fan box a separate detail that would print a lot easier and faster. I put matching 2.0mm holes into each piece as locating holes. At assembly, I glue in pieces of filament into one part and they become the locating pins. Then I edge glue one part and set it into the other. The parts positively locate and Cyano-Acrylic glue works really well with both PLA and PETG. A plus is that you wouldn't need anywhere near as much material if that was two pieces. This model could print vertically as a single model but in this case I wanted the layer lines to run up and down rather than be concentric. Vertically would also require support for the exterior bottom which would make it ugly. You can see the 4 locating holes (2 would be sufficient) in the red part. It still requires support for the half-round inner feature and so the print time is a bit longer for 2 halves than it was for the single model. BTW I have a 1.8mm drill I use as a reamer to insure the filament fits.. This is vertical as opposed to horizontal. In this case it does take longer to print 2 but I'm OK with that.

You can open a gcode file in a text editor and check it yourself. Search for " F" (space + F) and lines that have speed commands will come up. Any F numbers over 9000 (150mm/sec) are a problem. You could also search for M220. Double check that you don't have a post-processor like ChangeAtZ running because it would make a global speed change that would show up on the LCD because it would would add an M220 line.

Both of you please be gentle. This is my first time doing Fuzzy Skin. This is with a regular support blocker as a cutting mesh. The blocker is 15mm tall and 3mm off the build plate. I rotated the blocker 45° so only a point was sticking into the model (a pie shaped intrusion). I thought it came out pretty good. The text is solid to the body where the text using the custom blocker looked weak.

I think you 2 more options (besides the standard support blocker). I don't know that either will actually work as you would like. 1. Make the text area a separate model and the tube will have a cutout where the text area fits. You would need to test this and see if the Mesh Fixes settings for removing overlaps will work. 2. Design a custom blocker shape so it doesn't affect the internals of the main model as much. I went with option 2 for this little exercise. The new model covers the text and only goes into the main model by about 1mm. There would still be Tops/Bottoms and Walls, but the interference area is so small that they don't really matter. One problem I see is that the outer wall of the model still exists at the interface between the custom blocker and the main model. That outer wall is fuzzy and then the new outer wall created by the blocker has to stick to the fuzzy skin. That's probably not a good thing. The letters could fall off. The easiest thing to do is just use a support blocker as a cutting mesh and live with the extra walls and skins. I would suggest (if you can) that you put a 45° chamfer on the sides of all the text. The chamfer would keep the lettering from requiring support.

I don't know MeshMixer. If I need to alter a STL file I use MS 3D Builder which is bundled with Windows 10 (and I think Win11). Depending on how you want to change the STL you could also use Cura's Support Blockers. They can be configured to do different things by changing their Per Model settings.

OK. So "Profile #1" should be just as it was, but now the print time has doubled. Something must have changed even though you did not make any changes. If it changed by itself then it's likely a bug. Did you unhide all the settings and go through them one-by-one? Does anything stick out as being wrong?

I recall some problems that occurred with Cura and the Ryzen processors. I would suggest moving up to Cura 5.1 as I haven't seen any reports about it conflicting with the Ryzen's. You can look through these search results on the UM Github site and you may come across more information.

If I understand the question correctly... Your "normal" profile (infill 20%, Print Speed 20mm/sec, etc.) and your "Fast" profile is 25% faster print speed and only spends 25% as much time on the infill and only has 67% as many layers to print. The main difference in time calculations is usually Accel and Jerk but if you have long slow retractions and primes, and maybe Z-Hops then those things take more time. The geometry of the model may have a large effect also.

@Cheddar_C137 doing as AHoeben says in that post that @gr5 linked will work in most cases. Since you have the G29 in your StartUp Gcode you might want it to be a bit different to keep the nozzle from drooling during leveling. This will work for a printer with the Origin in the left front corner. If you have an Origin at Center machine you would need to adjust the "go to left front corner" line to G1 F6000 X-115 Y-115 or whatever works. ;-----StartUp Gcode G90 ;Absolute Movement G21 ;Metric M82 ;Absolute Extrusion M220 S100 ;reset printer feed rate modifier M221 S100 ;reset printer flow rate modifier M104 S160 ;Heat the hot end partway but below ooze temperature M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Heat the bed to Initial Layer Bed Temp and wait G28 ;Home All G29 ;ABL G1 F1000 Z5 ;move up G1 F6000 X0 Y0 ;go to the left front corner M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Heat the hot end to the initial layer print temp and wait G92 E0 ;reset extruder etc. etc. Paste that into your StartUp Gcode in the Cura machine settings. You will replace up to and including "G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed". If there are purge lines below that code they will be fine.

You can. It uses the suggested Pause at Height and then Search and Replace. There aren't any extrusions, the nozzle runs around pretending to print a skirt and then it pauses (or at least tries to).

@myosotis Are the ".cubex" files text files? If they are then can you post one? Text files are pretty easy to deal with in post-process so making a "Cura Marlin gcode" to "CubeX file" converter might be possible even within MS Excel.

Load the model into Cura, set up to slice, and use the "File | Save Project" command. That will create a 3mf project file. Post that 3mf file here. I can't think of any other setting that would have the effect. Maybe there is an open seam in the model or something like that.

In theory - since the Z height doesn't change, the nozzle cannot hit the infill (or anything else). In reality, it does happen and in severe cases it can be enough to dislodge the print from the bed. For the most part it's simply annoying. I "have a feeling" that it's related to the printer and/or material but I have no actual evidence for that. You can check your hot end and make sure it is secure, and check that your X trolley wheels are adjusted correctly and your Z system is working correctly. If you determine that those are fine, then you can enable "Z-Hop when retracted" (Travel settings) at around 0.5mm to insure that when a retraction occurs prior to a travel move the print head moves up and avoids the infill during the travel. The settings "Max Comb Distance with No Retract", "Avoid printed parts when traveling", and a couple of others may be adjusted and might make a difference.