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ETA_Boeckle

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  1. Pour ma part j'ai fait pas mal de modifications sur mon UMO dont celle ci qui requiert un changement de tête d'impression: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/beyond-umo-um2-slideblocks-by-gudo-neotko-gt2-open-belt L'avantage est qu'ils sont relativement facilement changeables si nécessaire. Comme c'est aussi bon pour les UM2, ça pourrait en théorie marcher sur une UM3... mais c'est un système avec courroie coupée donc si tu teste et que ça ne marche pas tu es bon pour tout redémonter et changer les courroies ainsi que les blocs...
  2. It all is a question of balance... And that depends on the end use of your prints. I have 2 UMO that I have modified, I almost always print at 40-50 mm/min because for me dimensional precision is the most important, I print parts that have to mount together so tolerances are important. The basics for quality is to put all speeds at the same (outer and inner wall, infill etc...) and for the first layer I put it at 1/2 of the "normal" print speed. Don't put Jerk to high, jerk is the first acceleration, for example if your printer is stopped and starts a print at 60 mm/s it will
  3. I'm far from being an electronics specialist but that seems to me like a memory error... It could be that the memory is damaged in a way that it isn't persistent anymore and get's erased when you power off your printer... If you have an UMO this part is in your Arduino board which is easy to change. If you have an UMO + all is integrated in one board... But as I said, I'm not a specialist... If you can, try to give us more information. Does your printer start? What does it show on the screen? Is it new, old? What did you already try? Maybe make some picture's that show your problem
  4. @Anthrix I would also apreciate if you would be willing to share the Z probe fixture... My old UMO is aboute 80-90% complete. Z probe and filament runout detector being the last two little mod's I would like to add to it. Thanks a lot!
  5. What you ask would also be great but I assume the reason why they don't do that is that the feeder is not hardened, so printing abrasive materials would slowly wear down the feeder gear. That's also probably why this material cannot be selected with this printer in Cura... Unfortunately I don't know any work around... Sorry.
  6. There are some well known youtubers who made some tests wich I did look at. But until now I never had an use case for it, so never tested it.
  7. Bonjour, Sujet très intéressant mais complexe... Je me pose des questions à cause des risques de collisions des buses entre la couche intérieure haute et les couches extérieures fines. Il me vient une idée / suggestion / question... Si ton but est "juste" de suivre les parois ne serait-il pas préférable (pour autant que Cura le permette) d'augmenter le nombre de périmètre de 1 et d'assigner la seconde buse aux périmètre intérieurs?
  8. Thanks a lot for your reply! I actually reed this end of life policy but did somehow not understand it or reed it with enough attention... Sorry, I feel a little bit bad now for beeing asking something that was right under my nose... 😕
  9. Hello everyone, I was wondering if there was any information about the ongoing support for ultimaker printers wich are no more manufactured and I found this: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016908619 It allready helped me a lot but I still have some questions: Did I understand well, regarding Ultimaker's main page only Displaying UM2+ Connect, UM S3 and UM S5, that all other printers aren't manufactured any more? Is there any expected support deadline for UMO+, UM2+ and UM3? (Typically "We will provide support and spare parts at least until 20
  10. Ultimaker S line printers are rated for a max build speed of 24 mm³/s maximum. So if you use a 2 mm nozzle with lets say 0.5 mm layers you could print at max 24 mm/s (Nozzle diameter * layer hight * print speed). 0.8 mm is allready really big for FDM, did you allready try it? In that case, with 0.4mm layers you could go up to 75 mm/s. Keep in mind these values are theory, I would allways take them with care and take some margin. If you really want to push more matérial you would have ton consider changing the extruder and the heater block (Wich is, as far as
  11. Happy tu see you could solve your issue! Sketchup is easy to use and easy to eccess, but unfortunately there are very often problems with STL exported from this software. If you have some time to dive into CAD I would advise you to try FreeCAD or Fusion360 (There is a free option for hobbyist) Or if you are familiar with programming you could try https://www.openscad.org/
  12. Pour une éventuelle date limite, je n'en sais rien... Mais il est tout a fait probable que le filament se dégrade au fur et a mesure du temps, un peu comme un vieux PLA deviens cassant. Pour la dissolution du PVA je n'ai pas d'astuce particulière, nous n'utilisons souvent que des petits supports donc j'arrive a en enlever 80-90% "a sec" avant immersion, et le reste c'est ans de l'eau tiède, laisser poser, brosser, laisser poser, brosser… jusqu'à ce que ça parte… Si tu as de grands supports a retirer une température d'environ 40° et idéalement un brassage constant aident a diss
  13. Un des problèmes avec le PVA c'est qu'il absorbe énormément d'humidité et celle ci s'évapore lorsque l'on chauffe le PVA pour imprimer provoquant des bruits de craquement et des bulles dans le filament, cela provoque presque inévitablement des gros problèmes d'impression... Il faut conserver le PVA dans un contenant hermétique avec beaucoup de silica gel, et même comme cela il faut le faire sécher de temps en temps. mais cela veut dire qu'il faut charger et décharger le PVA avant et après chaque impression... Ou alors investir dans une polybox, mais du coup la matière n'est plus reconnue par l
  14. Ce n'est pas exclu que ça n'arrive que lorsque le plateau et la buse chauffent c'est a ce moment que l'imprimante utilise le plus de courant et peut-être que l'alimentation vieillissante n'arrive plus a fournir ces pointes de courant... Par contre je ne connais pas de moyen simple et pas cher de discriminer l'alimentation, a part en acheter une neuve... (et si c'était pas ça le problème ça fait cher pour rien...9
  15. I would go for a UMS3 if you want it to be future proof. At work we have an UM2+ and an UM3 both are exellent machines but haven't had SW updates since ages. I understand that UM is focussing on their newer product and (maybe) on new devlepoments. But as a tech enthousiast I find it a little sad that thes printers aren't maintained any more. The Hardware of these is capable of much more than it does actually.
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