Yo-NuTZ

Hello, I only realized after buying my current Ultimaker 3 Extended that its marlin implementation is kinda lacking, for example no linear advance and some other smaller things. What i hoped to help was the Tinkergnome firmware but it doesn't work on the UM3. I just realised, the board is a somewhat standard RAMPS type board with the classical ATmega 8bit chip and the firmware is based on Marlin so does anobody know if I could get klipper to work with it? Has perhaps anybody had any success with this?

Well, it's not that hard you just have to add the CC profile as listed above. The you just print and ignore/click continue anyway to the notices.

Sorry for posting in an old submission but does anynody have a link to the STL for the plug? Also thanks @gr5 for the very good writeup

Thanks, This actually helps because i removed it since it overflowed filament on both sides of the heater block. I'll try to reassemble and stick it back in somehow and update. Oh and also do a manual bed leveling. If it still doesn't work i'll post a photo of the error. Ordered a replacement but it won't arrive any sooner then the end of next week and I have quite a lot to print and don't need the dual hotend feature

@Enigma_M4 yeah, i know of that option but I trust bondtech more since i've used their products on other printers. Thanks

Hello, Could anyone who has tried both (or has proper knowledge) explain to me the differences and if they are worth the money? The price difference is pretty steep, ~200eur vs 400eur so am i really getting double the value? I get that one includes the motor and the other doesn't. Also the DDG seems somewhat more related to their general purpose BMG. I have tried to find proper reviews on the 2 but find mostly marketing/PR material which seems to be biased. I am mainly interested in this upgrade for 2 types of filament, TPU and carbon/glass filled Petg/Abs/Asa. Thanks in advance for any input

Although there is the option to set active leveling to "Never" the printer does not allow me to do so, i get an error i cannot skip. I am on firmware 4.3.3.2018xxxx I posted it in firmware because i remeber being able to disable it on an older version ( i would prefer not to upgrade to a newer firmware). Is there a workaround? (i know how to connect with putty to the printer if that helps) I need this since one of my printcores is broken and i don't have another one at the time to replace it.

Thank you for your solution @Tim_Felbinger , i applied it in Windows 10 and in my case the full path to those same files (for the printcore) was: c:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.2.1\share\cura\resources\variants\

Thank you for your input, i expected PLA and TPU to be more problematic on the CC core I would have kept it for special/engineering materials. I was curious if there were other modifications to it because i like to understand how stuff works and am a tinkerer. Tried contacting 3dsolex through their contact form but got no response.

Could you please post a link to a compatible PT100 adapter board?

@gr5 Could you please help with the question above? From your posts you seem to be pretty knowledgeable on 3D Solex products....

Can anybody tell me if there are any constructive / hardware differences between the Ultimaker Printcore AA and CC besides the hardened nozzle (sorry, i'm not a native english speaker)? Maybe the CC printcore is all metal (no PTFE tube on the inside)? How about the difference between the 3D Solex compatible models: https://3dsolex.com/product/printcore-cc-0-4-everlast-ruby/ and https://3dsolex.com/product/printcore-s5-trix/ I will need to print in the near future some abrasive filaments and am currently researching my options, so any information is welcome

I totally agree

I searched for one too and couldn't find it either

excellent document, I cleared up some stuff which I did not know

I recently got an Ultimaker 3 second hand. Was pretty happy about it until I got home (was pretty cheap) and had the time to test it. Prints aren't dimensionally accuratem they're off by 10mm and also it misses steps (layers from some point just slide to one side). From my know how with previous printers it can be the pulleys, belt, motor or steps/mm. In my config file they are 80mm/sec is this correct? If you are there mind telling me the default print steps for all motor and also the motor amperage since i've had some overheating & skipped steps? These are the values you are looking for: in my current version i could find them in: /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json default_steps_per_mm (all motors please) default_motor_current (same, all axes please) Thanks in advance and also thank you to all members contributing, I've been lurking here and gathering know how

Even though it's a very old post, I'll leave this here for future reference:

Thank you for the tip. Could you help with a little assistance or more detailed explanation on the above? I knew of those videos, they were bookmarked and prepared in my documentation phase (in which I am currently now). I already programmed the OTP bit on another TMC2208 in the past, I think I will be able to do that (switched it to spreadcycle). Honestly I am still not sure If besides legacy I should leave it in stealthChop or switch it to spreadCycle. As mentioned above, the soldering will be done by someone with more skill. I will try to get additional help from him but I don't want to abuse his kindness.

@shai: Good to know. I talked to an older friend and he'll do it for me. Since you've said you ended up damaging the board I think I will initially start with the motor for second hotend/printhead hoping that even if I am unsuccessful at least I would still have the first one. I'll try to post my findings afterwards if I am successfull. If you have any tips on what to avoid doing I'm open to them :)

If you want to be extra safe there exists purging/cleaning filament to clean up the possible residue leftover

Wow, Gr5's post is just what I was looking for, do you have the values for the CC printcores and their nozzles (0.6 especially)?

While trying to understand what needs to be done, i have stumbled upon a very helpfull PDF from Trinamic: https://gzhls.at/blob/ldb/c/9/4/2/ffa39ccd8323907ea35953b5f5e3ef9dfd3c.pdf which is called How to replace Allegro A4988 with TMC2208. Another thing is as far as I remember there was this one time programmable bit (succeeded a long time ago in programming / setting it) but it was mostly to set StealthChop or SpreadCycle mode. There was a youtube video on it which was very helpfull. Let me know if you want me to search for it, since i couldn't find it again on a quick google.

Hey. Even if this post seems to be somewhat old, i love your ideea and maybe i'll try on my own. I had no idea of this compatibility but it's very good. Couple of things though: the resistors you crossed out need to be removed? Also, in the end, in what mode/setting would the tcm2208 run? I do have soldering skills but never succeeded with QFN ...