Hi, I'm having trouble with the first layer. I've tried different settings but I can't seem to find proper settings.
My goal is to get a good first layer without much warping and without a gluestick. I'm printing with PLA.
The majority is fine but it seem to tear the first layer in some parts.
Might it be a bit to thin first layer?
Too high bed temp?
Thanks for any advise! 😄
I've shared my profile and a picture of the issue.
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SandervG
Good bed adhesion is one of the most important facets of 3D printing. When your print properly adhered to your bed you can sit back and relax while your print finishes. At the same time, when it does
gr5
It's a long video, I know, sorry. But I packed in everything you need to know to be an expert at getting parts to stick to the glass better. In the video I pick up an entire printer by the little UM
PETTERM
thanks all, I watched the video and followed the advice, used the glue stick and less clearance on the calibration, printed out with no problems:)
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GregValiant 1,346
It's all about practice. I think that would be true with a BLT system as well. The BLT will confirm that the midpoint is higher and it will build a profile to raise the Z a bit in that area. I don't know how many layers that Z adjustment lasts for, but eventually it will be 0 and the gcode will just be read and adhered to.
There is a gcode command (M32) that doesn't get used much that will call another gcode file and then return to the first one. The downside is you have to know the DOS 8.3 name of the file you are calling. All files have a DOS 8.3 file name. It can be a pain to tease it out of Windows.
M32 P !SAWWED~1.GCO#
If that line was in my StartUp gcode it would call the SAWWED~.GCO (actually named "Saw Wedges.gcode") every time I print a file. There is more info on the MarlinFW.org site. I've played with it and it works on my E3Pro.
I level before every print. It takes maybe 30 seconds using the buttons in my app and most of that is waiting for the head to move. So my prints always start perfect...and then I remember that I needed to move the Z seam and I have to abort anyway. A BLT wouldn't help that at all.
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