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Tip: Bed adhesion

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Posted (edited) · Tip: Bed adhesion

Just done my first test print on a 2+ extended.

Happy with detail and resolution but the model came loose by its self mid print.

I used some glue to help it stick.

What should should i change for the next test?

 

IMG_2324.jpg

IMG_2325.jpg

IMG_2326.jpg

Edited by PETTERM

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion
26 minutes ago, PETTERM said:

Just done my first test print on a 2+ extended.

Happy with detail and resolution but the model came loose by its self mid print.

I used some glue to help it stick.

What should should i change for the next test?

 

Did you use a Brim?

Our UM3 has never had an issue with loss of adhesion but my colleagues using the 2+ have had this issue a fair bit, they have used a higher heat on the build plate to help overcome this issue, although there has been occasions where loss of adhesion has still occurred...

I still swear by Dimafix - it holds so tight it is sometimes difficult to remove the build after printing (although a few minutes int he fridge fixes this and it pops right off)

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Not sure about the brim, this was the ultimaker robot that came with the printer.

Looks like the first layer needs some more work, will try to wash the plate and recalibrate again

 

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

It's a long video, I know, sorry.  But I packed in everything you need to know to be an expert at getting parts to stick to the glass better.  In the video I pick up an entire printer by the little UM robot.  If you follow any 2 of the suggestions you will have an improvment but if you follow all of them you will never have a part come loose again.

 

 

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Based on the surface on the bottom and the apparent seam that exists between the lines, I would say your bed is a little bit too low. Raise it a little bit and try again. 

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

George's video is great.  I went with the diluted wood glue/dried up on the bed for many months and it worked great.  I've gone to AquaNet extra hold hairspray now...it just works so well!

 

Be sure your glass is super clean...Windex, rubbing alcohol...but your first layer looks like the nozzles needs to come down a bit more.

 

Bed temp 60C works perfect too

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

The bottom of your parts should look like this, when well squeezed into the glass. For PLA this surface is quite reflective: you can see the protective cover of a desktop fan mirrored in it. Top photo = focused on bottom surface of model. Bottom photo = focused on fan cover reflected in this surface. It is the same model, but I couldn't get both the bottom and the reflection in focus at the same time, since the fan was too far behind the model.

 

underside_mirror.thumb.jpg.d9e8c12251778b0a33338a0eac202c6f.jpg

 

 

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

For me ive used prit stick power for the past 4 years with applications every few months. But recently tried the salt method to great success. And i have to agree with sander on this one. Just looking at the first layer, it doesnt look like its squished enough, and looks like your also getting underextrusion. But sometimes skipped lines can just be the initial moments the temps are settling after the initial higher lower routine.

 

Squashed is better than not squashed. Thats about it.

 

Once you get it right youll be fine.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

thanks all, I watched the video and followed the advice, used the glue stick and less clearance on the calibration, printed out with no problems:)

IMG_2334.jpg

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Hello Folks,

I'm needing a little help here, If some one could lend a hand. I'm an ole cronnie trying to learn the new stuff and though I can figure it out most times this one is very elusive to me. I apparently really messed up the settings on my build plate adhesion profile and seem unable to get it corrected. I have played around withe every configuration I could conjure up with dismal results. I have a very rudimitery simple print I'm trying to do on a mini-3 delta (I know it's cheap, but I need some experience before investing in it ) The problem I'm having is a continual build up on the extruder, all the settings are correct for the filament " 195c nozzle and 60c bed, but it just rolls up into a ball of goo, the test print works flawlessly so I know it's something I have done or have over looked.  

 

Help if you can, I'd love to start being part of this and be able to create useful and interesting things.

 

cura sht1.jpg

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Just print closer to the plate. And you should be fine. If it prints any tests then it should print anything fine. But if you've removed the plate heavy handed then youve most likely afected the initial initial print layer which is the most important.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Thanks Cloakfiend, I'll  give it a shot. I was going with 1mm thinking that would be close enough but I will reduce it further add see if I get better results.

 

And thanks again.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion
10 hours ago, Scooter said:

ll the settings are correct for the filament " 195c nozzle and 60c bed, but it just rolls up into a ball of goo

 

Well, the raft settings are not uncommon, but a few questions:

 

- I don't know the printer, but the print speed seems incredible high?

- Are you sure that you want to print with only a single top and bottom layer (0.06mm)?

- Have you modified the printer for 2.85mm filament? It should be 1.75mm, shouldn't it?

 

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Tinkergnome,

Thanks, I realized the filement was incorrect after I posed the question.

The manufacture reccomends a slightly higher print speed to keep the extrusion smooth, but I'll reduce the rate to see if it does work better.

Thanks for the input and I'll let you know the results.

 

 

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Yeah ill admit i didnt notice the 150mm/s speed. Thats crazy fast in my world. I wouldnt normally go above 70 from a quality point of view. 150 would be for a joke just to watch the machine go crazy fast. 

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion
On 2/17/2019 at 3:57 PM, tinkergnome said:

...

- Are you sure that you want to print with only a single top and bottom layer (0.06mm)?

...

 

I agree on thinkergnome with that question: usually top and bottom should be about the same thickness as the walls, but it depends on the model and material. If too thin, it can't bridge and close the top gaps. So I would suggest you begin with 0.8mm, same as the walls.

 

Concerning printing speed, start a test piece with 50mm/s, and adjust up and down in steps of 10mm/s on the fly (if your printer allows that), to see how it affects print quality.

 

Idem for temperatures: start with a safe average recommended for your printer (may differ from brand to brand, model to model, and material to material), and gently adjust up and down in steps of 5°C while watching it.

 

Idem for bed temp: too hot and the model will sag, or peel off. Too cold, and the model won't bond well and may suddenly pop off. Try to find the point in-between where bonding is optimal, without deformation.

 

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Just curious, but whilst on the subject, is there yet a way in cura to essentially skip the initial bottom laters, resulting in a hollow print. Saving time acually modelling it hollow. Meaning no compromise in top bottom layer thickness, but saving many hours on prints with large volume bottom layers?

I remember dropping the top bottom layers to like 8 before for 0.06 or something and that worked for the um2 but not for the s5. So some method of skipping those initial layers would be great. Otherwise its just more modelling hassle...

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Yes but does that effect all bottom layers? Or only the initial bottom later? From previous experience it also affected all bottom layers, on anything with overhangs as well. As dis the setting for top layers. I want a single setting for the one and only bottom layer that touches the buildplate only....and was wandering if that existed yet? Apologies if i missed it and it already is there. Im so used to using the same settings i barely look at the others anymore. I still need to look into the gyroid infill for support seeing as it allows infill to be poured in after. You da master of gyroid @kmanstudios!

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Posted (edited) · Tip: Bed adhesion
2 hours ago, cloakfiend said:

Or only the initial bottom later? From previous experience it also affected all bottom layers, on anything with overhangs as well.

Now that you mention it..... Duhhhh, silly me. Good catch mate 🙂
 

2 hours ago, cloakfiend said:

gyroid infill for support seeing as it allows infill to be poured in after.

After?

 

Edited by kmanstudios

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Im guessing i can drill the bottom and with gyroid infill then there are gaps in the infill which will allow me to pour plaster inside? rather than my usual style of printing hollow. Still printing hollow doesnt seem to give me much headaches unless there are loads of cavities in the model, So ill just continye doing that.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion
On 2/19/2019 at 10:24 AM, kmanstudios said:

The gyroid forms a closed pattern.

 

...Then the guys on my you-tube channel lied to me! they shall pay! nah not really, i never got round to doing it, but a flawed infill might be a good addition, for folks that like to use fillers!

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

Think of it as a corrugated grid. It is open on one direction and will not be open on another. I am thinking with very careful angling of the infill, you could fill enough voids to pour something into. But, you really have to look at it. Something like the areas where it was noticeable on my 'dancer' print, it would not be possible to use because of the thinness.

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Posted · Tip: Bed adhesion

I kind of figured it would not work. They were trying to say gyroid infill in simply3d or slicer could do it. And now cura had it. Obviously cos of kman i knew cura had it. They said thise softwares could do it. But i doubt it. Unless i see someone do it i simply wont believe it. Too many enthusiasts claiming nonsense iny opinion.

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