Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
IRobertI

Post your latest print!

Recommended Posts

Finally finished "A better Dragon", by Illuminarti.

24 hour print. I had problems with retraction settings being off and needed a bit of rescue work with the supports using emergency matchsticks and scoops of pritstick.

post print cleanup wasn't easy, but I got there in the end!

Printed with Ultimaker gold.

0.1 layer, speed 35mm, temp 230, bed 70, no infill, 0.8 thickness.

A better dragon

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My first organic print is a scanned skull. Not my modell,

Skull13

Size: little bit over 2cm

Fil.: Ultimate Blue

Temp 202°

Bed: 65°

Speed: 30mm/s

Layer h.: 0.06mm

Printing:

Skull03

Finished Print:

Skull04

Skull05

Support removed (kind of ... many problems there.

I saw them later on my photos. Next time I have to check the images before the primer. :

(Ordered a lamp with magnifying glass.)

Skull06

 

First layer of primer (ArmyPainter: ColorPrimer - Skeleton Bone):

 

Skull08

Skull09

used my simple painting box. :)

Skull07

 

I have used a little bit to much primer on the face, but it was hard to get the primer in the holes (Eyes and nose)

Result:

Skull10

Skull11

Skull12

Skull15

I'm happy with the result, In reality it looks much better than on the makro shots. ;)

I think I'll reprint him with a different orientation.

More in my Gallery Album:

Skull01Skull02Skull03Skull04Skull05Skull06Skull07Skull08Skull09Skull10Skull11Skull12Skull13Skull14Skull15Skull16

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice print Truckle. It looks very clean.

You seem use the glue stick too much. I think it is enough to apply a little and then smear it around with a wet tissue until there is a thin film on the glass plate. Also the bed temperature is a bit too high. 60° should be enough (to make it stick like hell).

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My first organic print is a scanned skull. Not my modell,

 

Looks great! the support structures looked like they would have caused some issues, but it turned out just fine! I guess support is a lot more forgiving on organic structures eh?

All it needs is a quick wash of some brown!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great! the support structures looked like they would have caused some issues, but it turned out just fine! I guess support is a lot more forgiving on organic structures eh?

 

Thanx. There are some issues with the support structures, it was a lot of pain to remove it. I should have printed it with a little bit different orientation. And maybe with fewer structures.

Main issue is the wall thickness on some spots. The whole modell needs to be printed some percent bigger to avoid these problems. Or I have to modify the modell itself.

The paint on your walker is very impressive! I like it. :geek:

 

All it needs is a quick wash of some brown!

 

what do you mean by "quick wash..", is this a style/look or a technique to paint?

Would you use some brown paint with a lot of thinner to finish it?

It's over 20 years ago, that I have painted some D&D figures.

Can you recommend some pages with painting tutorials/techniques for real modells?

Like the page where you got your rust tutorial from.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what do you mean by "quick wash..", is this a style/look or a technique to paint?

Would you use some brown paint with a lot of thinner to finish it?

It's over 20 years ago, that I have painted some D&D figures.

Can you recommend some pages with painting tutorials/techniques for real modells?

Like the page where you got your rust tutorial from.

 

That's like the same as me, I painted some figures and stuff way back when, and only started back up when I got the 3d printer. I even used the paints that I still had left over and they were amazingly still liquid.

I couldn't really find a good tutorial for washes that aren't for table top models, but it's really easy, you just water down your paints a LOT. Then brush it over all the details and crevices. Being all watery, the paint will just pool where there are natural grooves are, resulting in darker areas where your model is recessed. This will highlight a lot of the cracks and stuff in your skull model without having to really be all that precise.

Since you're printing a bunch of them you should try it out on a spare piece. It's really forgiving, if you mess up, brush over the same area with water.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've posted this a few times, and it's not a free vid, but worth the money.

He use Oil washes extensively and explains how.

https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials/character-creation-tutorial-metallic-painting-stan-winston-school

 

 

That's like the same as me, I painted some figures and stuff way back when, and only started back up when I got the 3d printer. I even used the paints that I still had left over and they were amazingly still liquid.

I couldn't really find a good tutorial for washes that aren't for table top models, but it's really easy, you just water down your paints a LOT. Then brush it over all the details and crevices. Being all watery, the paint will just pool where there are natural grooves are, resulting in darker areas where your model is recessed. This will highlight a lot of the cracks and stuff in your skull model without having to really be all that precise.

Since you're printing a bunch of them you should try it out on a spare piece. It's really forgiving, if you mess up, brush over the same area with water.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey everyone. I'm new here and I just wanted to say I love all the stuff you guys are posting here. Great work everyone.

I have just purchased an ultimaker 2 from the imaker store in london and should hopfully get it on Friday!!! I'm sooooo excited its ridiculous! For a while I was thinking of getting a form 1 but there seem to be alot of issuse with it at the moment (huge lead times, small build volume, lots of customers reporting print failures over a certain size, needing to swap build platform for differnt resin types) and also as I live in the UK it would cost a bomb in import tax not to mention expensive material costs. I came across the ultimaker 2 When I whent to the Imaker store in london and was blown away by the quality of the prints that they had made on the ultimaker 2. I honestly didnt think that you could get such high quality with an FDM printer. Needless to say when weighing up the pros and cons Ultimaker came out on top. Don't get me wrong, I think that the form 1 is an awesome machine but I just dont think it's worth the money and hassle at the moment.

Any way I just wanted to say hi and that I very much look forward to sharing my work on here in the near future :grin:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Whoa! Some awesome prints lately.

Valcrow, that rusty Jenner looks superb, such great details. Your photography is good too, I should get my Canon out instead of using my iphone lol

I have been away all weekend, but tonight I will post some updates on the terminator arm :)

Edit : Leo, welcome to the forum. Great to see another UM2 owner. I bought mine from Imakr too. I had the same thoughts as you on the form1, it has a promising future but for now there are too many negatives.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have printed my brothers brains that I had isolated from an MRi scan he had made as part of his studies in to neuro sience. I printed it out on 50% scale and gave it to him as a present for his graduation.

The model rendering:

IMAG1086

 

The print finished:

IMAG1094

 

Finished brains on a stand (also printed ofcourse)

IMAG1223

He was pretty surprised being able to hold his own brain... :mrgreen:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Ultimaker Cura | a new interface
      We're not only trying to always make Ultimaker Cura better with the usual new features and improvements we build, but we're also trying to make it more pleasant to operate. The interface was the focus for the upcoming release, from which we would already like to present you the first glance. 
        • Like
      • 114 replies
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!