3D printing forums

A .curaprofile file is actually a zip file containing multiple files. You can rename it to ".curaprofile.zip" and extract it into a folder. The files inside that folder are all pure text with no "weird characters". Do not edit the text of a .curaprofile file as is; this may break the .zip file structure.

I have never used Cura before, so I really don't know much about what I'm doing.    The printing is perfectly normal when using the Anycubic provided software, but gives [attached images] when using Cura.   I'm using:   Generic PLA Kobra 2 neo   I also hear some high pitched noise when the printer was printing.   I'm using the Anycubic kobra default profile, and for the print settings, I'm using the same settings I use inside Anycubic slicer. (I don't know how to get the print settings configuration file)     AK_Soldering Jig.3mf

You should be more worried about it melting through the top layer of the build plate and exposing the metal sheet underneath (it's happened to me).   This is why I use my own custom definition. Still, try changing the startup gcode to: M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate G28 ;Home M420 S1; Use saved mesh leveling data G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z5 F3000 ;Move nozzle up G1 X0 Y20 F5000.0 ;Move to start position M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 20} ; Start heating bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating hot end M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set bed temperature and wait M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set hotend temperature and wait G0 Z0.28 ; Lower nozzle G1 X0 Y100.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y100.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 E-1.0000 F1800 ;Retract a bit G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 E0.0000 F1800 That'll keep the nozzle at 5mm off the bed until it's hot, and instead heating the bed all the way THEN heating the hot end because I find the hot end heats up quicker than the bed, it waits until the bed has warmed to 20° below its final temperature, tells the hot end to start heating up, then waits for both the bed and hot end to heat up.   Let's just say that whoever is maintaining the definition in Cura... I'm not a fan of their work.

The yellow dot is a cross-section of an axis adjacent to the blue line along the edge of the square. If the yellow dot were cyan it would better match the blue line, which I presume you mean is a "Z seam," ie., the up and down corner of a square (an edge) is technically a seam: If the tip stops there, changes direction, etc., it's a seam. Is that what you mean? BTW, I have yet to open your file and check it out! Thank you!   A casting idea (maybe you said coasting) is also very interesting, to have some sort of a hot 0.2 mm high aluminum mold (sheet) that the tip prints into. It could make atomic levels of precision on the corners, like invisible microchip level of precision (crazy).  And, implementing a coating on the mold that allows the cold print material to detach, even depositing some atomic layers of itself onto the print (or vice versa, having an aluminum oxide layer come off), or whatever (is also crazy).  😹 I never thought .2mm of precision would not be enough, but the human eye can see this. Notwithstanding, in different contexts, precision looks different. An improvement on the corner of say, from a 0.2 mm radius to 0.1 would be really significant! Gosh, it could it actually be sharp, which I had never thought of before (I don't think it has to be that sharp).   Below is an image of natural crystal for comparison. What do you think these corner radii are? TBH, I haven't really looked at it that closely yet.     Pyrite Crystals on Marl  95 x 78 mm Navajún, La Rioja, Spain    I still have a ton of work to do on this, it seams.    [A back of the envelope calculation of 1355 pixels per 95 mm, to 14.2 pixels per millimeter, is 0.07 mm per pixel, eg., the corner.]

The Filament broke and the print paused.   I opened the bowden tube and took out the broke part, but when i resumed print it didnt load the filament to the nozzle .. it just started printing with no filament?   also there is no option to load or change or anything all greyed out.   Any insight into why it wont load the filament again to continue the print?