Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

3D printing forums

  1. General

    1. Official news

      Updates from Ultimaker HQ

    2. Ultimaker.com feedback

      Let us know what you think of our site

  2. Ultimaker products

    1. Ultimaker 3D printers

      Ultimaker 3D printers, add-ons and OEM

    2. Ultimaker Software

      The heart of our 3D printing ecosystem

    3. Materials & profiles

      Share your experiences with filaments

    4. 324
    5. Third party products & modifications

      Explore this never-ending world of choice

  3. 3D print Questions

    1. Improve your 3D prints

      Help, tips & tricks

    2. Design for Additive Manufacturing

      Discuss and learn about CAD & part optimization

    3. Industries

      Food & beverages, Architecture, Engineering, Manufacturing, Education & Research

  4. User Lounge

    1. What have you made

      Share your latest project

    2. Coffee corner

      Introductions and 'how was your day?'

    3. Buying or selling your Ultimaker

      Inside information about how and where to buy

  5. Languages

    1. Nederlands

      Welkom op het Nederlandse Ultimaker forum

    2. Deutsch

      Herzlich willkommen im deutschsprachigen Forum

    3. Español

      Bienvenido al foro en español

    4. Français

      Bienvenue sur le forum francophone

    5. Italiano

      Se sei in grado di leggere questo, sei nel posto giusto

    6. Japanese - 日本語


    7. 246
  • Posts

    • My bed stopped heating recently and I traced the problem to the terminal block on the main board. One side of this block was burned out. If I remove the wire and touch it directly to the contact on the board, the bed heater starts working again.   Can I just solder these wires to the bed, or do I need to put in a new terminal block? If so, does anyone have an idea of what part to order?   I'm competent at soldering but lack some of the knowledge of *why* things are the way they are. Does the terminal block just provide an easier way to replace the wires, or does it offer some other protection in addition?   Also, any idea why the old terminal block burned out? It was yellowed and had a small burn spot on it...
    • Does anyone know how to remove the extra wall Cura adds to top/bottom layers when filling the skin? Because I don't have any infill there isn't anything underneath that wall to hold it there once I begin the top layers. So, it will begin to sag and the skin will also sag with it because it sticks to that wall. I would like the skin to stick directly to the inner wall instead. (Or maybe Cura can begin printing the extra wall one layer before this and have it be 50% overlapping from the inner wall so as to build a layer of support before the first top layer gets printed.)   I am attaching two images within Cura for reference. One will show the extra wall being printed with nothing underneath to support it. And the other will show the skin being filled in.   Hopefully someone has any idea of a workaround. Thanks!
    • I haven't gotten that deep into it but I am using it for parts with lots of radii.   I did find a downside.  I have my own pause routine that sends M25 to pause a print.  When using G1 commands and printing around a 65mm diameter cylinder - the M25 gets acted on after about .2 seconds (7 lines of Gcode).  When using G2-3 commands it takes a while (up to 35 seconds) for the M25 to get to the front of the queue to pause the print.  It can be an issue if I'm pausing to do a hot pull to clear a bowden problem or making an emergency adjustment to save a print.
    • I get the same. I’m on macOS 11.0.1 and Cura 4.8. It happens frequently enough that I’ve gone back to using 4.7.1 unless I need something like the improved Arrange All Models function 
    • I strongly recommend you don't mess with the bootloader.  It may seem like it's gone but this is a common thing with arduinos - it seems like the bootloader is gone but it isn't.  I have spent many frustrating hours with arduinos rebooting 1 second after starting compile, rebooting arduino 2 seconds after starting compile, etc.  sometimes that trick works.  Sometimes it doesn't.  If it *looks* like it loaded a new firmware then it did.  Either it works 100% or it works 0%.  There is no in between where the progress bar gets to 100% but it didn't work.  If the progress gets to 100% then it loaded properly.   the arduino IDE works better at loading a new firmware than the ultimaker GUI.  The Ultimaker GUI doesn't seem to like certain COM numbers (e.g. COM3 through COM10 seems to work but sometimes my arduino is at COM13).
  • Topics

  • Create New...