xeno

Een leuk artikel over Ultimaker, van een korte video serie over de wereld van 3D printers. http://tweakers.net/video/8840/de-maakbare-wereld-van-3d-printen-ultimaker.html

Amazon sells the 2GB version, but are they really that expensive ? and I wonder if it would work http://www.amazon.com/Eye-Fi-Share-Wireless-Memory-EYE-FI-2GB-B/dp/B001AD0TGG

Yes those are the ones, I have not had any problems, but I still have to test if the fans blow enough air. because they are silent you don't hear the rush of air and the fan-ducts are not as close to the nozzle as the older one was, this could also impact the amount of air flow close to the nozzle. I am doing a test right now with a Non Vase http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31206

Got the two Nuctua fans today, and they are really quiet (and expensive), and work great, they give a little less air then the stock 50mm fan, but that was to be expected, but now I have two fans instead of one. thanks guys

Thanks for the info, I ordered the Nuctua, lets hope they are as silent as they claim

I came across this double fan duct setup https://www.youmagine.com/designs/double-fan-duct-40mm-ultimaker-original--3 But it needs two 40mm fans, and the original UM1 fans are bigger, so where can I buy 40mm fans here in holland that can be connected to the UM1. A lot of them have 3 wire connection, and I need a two wire connector The best option would be super silent fans, I don't mind spending some cash for these

All these clean Happy Corners, bah ! this is a real Messy Happy Corner and it hasn't been this clean for a long time Click for larger.

I also noticed the problems with the white Colorfabb PLA, and it just needs higher temperatures then regular PLA, Try 220C and higher to get better results, it worked for me.

Did some more Woodfill prints, I love this stuff I printed the Knitted vase, I did not like the top part, so I left it off. Printed with 0.8 nozzle and 0.2 layers I wanted to do some experiments with oil paint washes, to give the Woodfill more depth, it worked really nice. I used a combination of burned sienna en Yellow ochre. The inside of the vase is the original Woodfill color.

With all the fantastic and complex prints, I could not stay behind. So I present you......... the Kitty litter Poop Scoop

We all knew it (well most of us anyway) http://3d-printers.toptenreviews.com/index.html

I saw that too, I just hope it is not a sign of the UM1 to disappear :/ and a cheaper UltiController would pull me over the edge to finally buy one.

The UM1 is (was) also sold without the laser cut parts, then why not the UltiController it saved €100,- on the kit, I wouldn't mind saving €20,- on the UltiController FIY just saw that the UM1 is € 361,- cheaper now, and even comes with Doodle3D, WOW

and my point is that I used to use Cura as one stop to print, no hassle, just open the drawing make your adjustments have it make support and print, now I have to sift through hundreds and maybe thousands of layers (big prints) to look for possible problems, and you have to really concentrate to look for those faults, and are very difficult to spot sometimes. the speed for the fast slicing is lost, spending 20 minutes sifting through the layers :( And I still don't get what is an improvement for support, (old) being able to pinch between two fingers and remove the support structure without any major force, instead of (new) having to use pliers and other tools with considerable force ? so as Cura improves in the future you will be forced to use more then one software packet to get your object printed ? that's what you are saying ! Don't get me wrong I am very much impressed what Daid has done with Cura, the speed of slicing is amazing, but how long ago was that changed, and when did Daid really start looking at the faulty support that has been a problem for quit some time now, Daid is probably doing important work on Cura but for now it seems support is not high on the priority list, and I think it should be. I hope Daid could answer why the old support was changed and when we will be able to get good support (not just this year answer)

That all very nice answer, but the support was working good in the older versions, and now it's "less" then good. so because it's getting worse we should just use other software ? normally software is supposed to get better, and unforeseen faults fixed, but Cura support is getting worse compared to older versions, and how many versions had trouble with free flying support and certain parts not getting any support at all, this was not the case with older versions. Cura might be the best and fastest slicer on the planet, I gladly choose slower rendering with good support, then throw away the part after hours of printing :(

I also have had lots of problems with support structure. and had to resort to pliers and saw to get support removed and damage details or the whole part in the process. especially support inside the object are almost impossible to remove without some tools and damage the part :-| and I also had to resort to make my own support structure because Cura just wont add support in certain areas or too much, I really hope the old and easy to remove support structure comes back as an extra option in Cura PLEASE DAID !

Liever niet, ik wil niets met Facebook te maken hebben, een Ned afdeling is gewoon beter

probeer ook eens een simpel blokje te printen, en met de hand voelen of de PLA regelmatig door loopt, het kan ook zijn dat er gruis om de doorvoer bolt zit, en die af en toe slipt (heb ik ook soms na problemen) check dat er geen gruis resten zitten op die plek. laten we hopen dat ze je Donderdag kunnen helpen

The best way to get help is to post some images of the problem prints, and start reading through and follow all other postings, this will give you a good idea what to look out for when getting problem prints. best is to start basic shapes cubes and such, these are great test object to see what is going on.

Het klinkt alsof tijdens de print de boel verstopt raakt, dit kan komen dat de spoel met PLA vies is, dan raad ik aan om een droog stukje spons rond de PLA invoer te doen, deze kan je met een knijper of zo klemmen, een beetje zoals dit. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190118 lichte stof kan al problemen veroorzaken, is mijn ervaring. Of de gebruikte PLA is niet van constante dikte en raakt klem in de Bowden tube, of wordt dan niet goed door de feeder door gedrukt, neem een schuifmaat en meet de dikte op diverse plekken op. als je een verstopping hebt, loont het om deze goed te reinigen voordat je verder gaat, het kan zijn dat het obstakel in de nozzle blijft zitten, en steeds weer voor problemen zorgt. het gemakkelijkste om foto's te posten via een Dropbox account, zet de foto's in de "Public" map, en maak daar en "Public link" van (rechts klikken op foto "copy Publik Link) Je kan ook kijken of er een Fablab in de buurt is die toevallig een Ultimaker heeft, misschien kan je daar voor directe hulp terecht.

It's down for me too ! But you know what than means, we are going to get updates, Ultimaker-Air, Ultimaker with retina screen, or even the Ultimaker watch ? or Ultimaker-Pro !

I stopped ordering from Faberdashery, when it gets tangled it is almost impossible to untangle. you could try this adjustable spool holder, for the larger diameter: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19122

Het beste is wat foto's te posten zodat we kunnen zien wat de problemen zijn, en de problemen proberen op te lossen. Het bed verwarmen helpt om de print na afkoeling makkelijk van de glas plaat los te krijgen. check de hoogte van het bed tov van de nozzle, je moet er net een stukje papier er tussen krijgen, te dichtbij kan het lastiger maken op het object los te krijgen, te ver af dan kan tijdens het printen het object los loskomen. misschien kan je langskomen op de UltiEvening van Ultimaker Maandag 27e aanstaande, daar zij de experts aanwezig http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4136-ulti-evening-27-januari/?hl=%2Bulti+%2Bevening en kan je Ultimaker mee nemen.

The best way to drill the .8mm nozzle is to go in steps, first 0.6mm then the 0.8mm, less chance of damaging the point of the nozzle

I changed to the rail system because I built a taller UM+, and the rods are too flexible in that height, en the rails were the best KISS solution I also dabbled with the idea to have more support for the platform: