xeno

The only way I could print these hand details, was to draw them connected in a frame, in a set of 6, so the nozzle kept going in one go. I did have to remove some material after printing, and some broke during material removal. this is the smallest I ever printed, with a layer of 0.05mm

This is the most confusing contest I have ever come across, I had some ideas, but after reading several times, I (and many others) still am not clear what I am supposed to do, and I just don't want to spend hours designing something witch might be all wrong :???: I give up :-|

If you can afford both, then look what you want to do, Ultimaker 2, unpack and print, tinkering is labor intensive. Ultimaker+ build, print and keep on tinkering, change nozzle in a minute for super fast large prints. the overall qualityand speed is slightly better for the UM2, but to me the possibility to adjust and change the UM+ is worth so much more

probeer de filament er uit te trekken als de kop heet is, en check of er kleine ribbels op zit (goed), en happen uit het filament (slecht) als er een hapje uit het filament is, dan kan de stel schroef te strak of te slap staan, kijk of er ook dan geen PLA resten op de knurled bolt zit, probeer het gruis weg te halen met een grove kwast of tandenborstel, probeer dan weer het filament in te voeren nadat je ongeveer 3 cm van het uiteinde hebt afgeknipt, en probeer nog een testprint te doen, en test of je via de controller of Cura PLA kan doorvoeren.

I think the "Go" should have been the same price as the UM1, and having no heated bed is maybe not a wise choice, but does make it more portable

It really does depend on what you want to make, I found the 20cm height is just too short for the prints I wanted to make, so I extended mine, it's not that I print high objects all the time, but with the extra height, you can create some impressive prints and don't forget that added height, there is also added print times

I can tell that they are looking for royalty free designs for promotional purposes, and I would like to help to show the awesome power of the UM's. but a little bit more clearer info would be nice

Don't get me wrong, but I don't fully understand what the idea of the contest really is, do we need to design the objects that are shown in the PDF, can it be totally our own design, or close to the sketch in the PDF file. or do we need to print these for you ? a stick for two roles of PLA ? wheels in different sizes ? pieces of a modular system A very high magician’s hat and magic stick ? pencil, an owl, a nail, several leaves and a classic bird house these are objects that don't need designing ? must these parts only be printed on an Ultimaker ? and posted on Dec 29th ?

I expect the UM pico to perform even better then the UM2, as it has even less resonance during printing, and print with greater speed. But does the UM grande really have the same z-axis rods as the UM2 ?, when I made my UM taller, I immediately noticed big difference in z-axis wobble with the too thin rods. and can we expect the new Cura when the new UM's start shipping ? (deadline Daid ?)

Update 1/5/14: Ultimaker has unveiled its two new desktop 3D printer models at International CES 2015 in Las Vegas. As their teaser video promised, those two printers would be larger and smaller than the Ultimaker 2. The Ultimaker 2 Extended is a larger desktop 3D printer with a build volume of about 4 inches larger than the previous iteration. capable of printing items up to about 10 inches tall. The Ultimaker 2 Extended has a price tag of $3030, about $500 more than the original. The smaller version is the Ultimaker 2 Go, a mini 3D printer that competes against other smaller machines, like the MakerBot Mini. With a price tag of $1450, the Go is meant to be portable. Both will be available for pre-order in March 2015.

Looks like exactly the same setup, I wonder if they dare to add dual print I also hope that with a little and big announcement, they announce a bigger and better spare parts support

I hope it is January 6th at CES some backwater countries still have their dates backwards, they like to confuse people

I am really curious about the larger version, and what thickness the z-stage rods are and the price off course, and hope UM will attack the 3D printing industry with very competitive prices. and I will hold off on my rebuild of my larger UM, and probably copy the UM grande :cool:

That doesn't look as bad my nozzle would look the same on my UM1 when they still had the older nozzle, that was prone to leaking, I usually wiped that away with a cloth when the head was heated up.

It looks bad, but if you heat up the head, and then take off the fanguard, you might be able to peel the softening PLA off, and you might be better of with a heat gun, instead of a hot flame, a flame will be too local, and a heat gun more spread out, and more controllable the trick is to get the PLA soft, and not melted, when it's soft you can peel and scrape it off please show more pics when you take it apart, we might be able to help and prevent permanent damage.

You can cheat a little, and make your nozzle size 0.39 or smaller, untill it slices. when I draw thin walls, I always make the walls 0.41mm thick.

Daid is right, the current size with components is a good balance, and making it bigger does cause quality issues, I made my UM1 taller, and also ran into those issues. I do think there will be more interest in bigger or wider printers in the future, as prices will get lower, but for now price and size is a delicate balance But if you start with the UM1 kit, you really learn how the printer works and is put together, and with a few months of printer experience, you can easily make a bigger version in the size you want, as the principle is the same, you just have to make everything more sturdy. One thing you also have to consider, is that with increase size, the print times increase a lot too, I have prints that take 3 or 4 days to complete, and while I can print very accurate, I tend to lower the quality setting, just the get a decent print in a decent amount of time.

Nice :cool:

Great minds think alike mine is 1Mtr in diameter, somebody else did the lighting system for me 9 segments were printed in several parts, molded, and cast in epoxy and polurethane resin.

I think Diad's responses could do with I little bit more emoticons, now his remarks sound arrogant and after reading some more old posts regarding Cura, I think the problem is not Daid not wanting to, he just hasn't the ability to do it. he is still constantly struggles to get new versions to work properly on OSX :mrgreen: I think Daid should just do like all other sofware makers, don't say a word, and just release new versions once in a while, so that we can't complain, and just have to deal with it.

to give users more control ?! Daid took away a very good and plenty of control menu, and gave us....basically an empty print dialogue, and told us to learn how to code ourselves to get back what we had. and even now the pronterface control is no where near as useful as the old one. Daid is occupied with so more important things, and the "few" UM1 users without an ulticontroller is just not worth the trouble it seems. I'll just stop responding to this thread, as I am getting really pissed off again, and I knoiw that nobody especially Daid does not care in the least :(

simpel, Start Cura, load model, open een Jpeg, en stel je settings in, en printen maar

That's because of stubborn Daid, we stuck with the older Cura to do our prints, like me :( I use the latest Cura on my downstairs iMac to do all the settings, en save the g-code to be printed with the Mac mini connected to the UM1 the pronterface UI is just,,, sorry to say ...CRAP and as much Daid says coding for the UI is simple, it is not for me, and I also don't have the time to learn to code. I really like to twist Daids nipples to get the old UI back.

The wall thickness is too thin, and will only slice good, if you change to 0.32 nozzle size. you can do this in the expert setting, using both "combine everything a-b" uncheck solid fill on top and bottom, then check spiralize.