xeno

Yes I always start the warmup with other PLA, then switch to the Woodfill, and at the end switch back to another PLA, it clogs the nozzle very easy.

You might want to have a look at the UM2, the platform looks much more sturdy then the UM1, I solved it by extending the length of the support on the rails, and make the canting almost non existent, and add weight to the platform, and is around 5KG

My experience is that it prints better at higher temps, I use 230°C, with 0.4 layer height and 0.8 nozzle. at lower temps it works the first few layers, but after a few layers it starts to go bad.

Most DIY stores usually sell this, while they say it's acrylic, it usually says Lexan on the label.

I'll take it Send you a PM

I have also wondered about that. I thought that the bronze bushing has less play then the ball bearings (on my UM1)

I posted two designs on the site, but the images are terrible, it doesn't show the complete image, and lots is cut off. I tried to make the images smaller, with the same awful result. https://www.youmagin...tv-remote-stand what does it take to make the images complete and good res ? no matter what size I make them, a lot gets cut off, and you can't click to see the full size image :???: the first were 20cmX20cm and a lot was cut off, second I made them 10X10cm and on the site the are enlarged to fit, and still have the same cut of all around (and massively grainy)

Thats what I did also, but no matter what size I make them, a lot gets cut off, and you can't click to see the full size image :???: the first were 20cmX20cm and a lot was cut off, second I made them 10X10cm and on the site the are enlarged to fit, and still have the same cut of all around (and massively grainy)

I posted two designs on the site, but the images are terrible, it doesn't show the complete image, and lots is cut off. I tried to make the images smaller, with the same awful result. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/apple-tv-remote-stand what does it take to make the images complete and good res ?

This VOC ship was 1 of several, all part of a huge Maquette, celebrating the 400 years of the VOC, average time for 1 ship was about a month to build, we worked with a group of people. Painting was done with oil paints to simulate the wood, en tiny brushed to paint the cityscape and details on the back of the ship.

Zij spreken ook over "stappenmotors : Krachtige stillere stappenmotors" Iemand die weet welke Stappen motoren dat zijn en of ze echt stiller zijn ? ik zou graag ook mijn Ultimaker stiller maken, maar zou je zomaar andere motoren kunnen plaatsen ?

I had it happen several times, and I have to restart everything, computer and Ultimaker. and it always happens when certain appliances are turned off or on, especially turning off the lights in the room. even turning on the oven in the kitchen downstairs can trigger this.

Hey Sander I sent you a PM and another print with XT, made the part on this site: http://shapeshifter.io/ and I was right that it would be great to make lamps, even if the led strip has separate lights the XT print makes it look line a continuous light bar

I moest een nieuwe slider blok maken, maar omdat er een bijna kapot was, was het gat niet perfect rond geprint, en ik heb die lager met iets te veel druk er in geperst, waardoor een uiteinde ovaal was geworden ik woon in Leiden, maar voor mij is het medisch momenteel niet mogelijk om naar Protospace te gaan, maar ik vindt het niet erg om er wat voor te betalen, zolang mijn printer maar weer goed functioneert.

After repairing my Ultimaker (no thanks to non responsive UM helpdesk !), I was finally able to do some experimenting with a larger nozzle and Colorfab XT en Woodfill fine. I drilled out my nozzle to 0.8mm, and had steps of 0.6mm high, the feeder was turning as fast as I have ever seen , but no problems with heating at that speed. The Woodfill fine is just a really great material, prints fine with 0.4 nozzle, but gets an extra nice texture with a 0.8 nozzle. The XT is just beautiful to print, it has a great silvery sheen to it when holding in the light, this will be great when making lamp covers and stuff.

Ik heb gekeken in die BOM lijsten, maar alle zijn de doorsnee kogel geleiders, en de gesinterde bronzen versies zijn maar 15mm lang, of 20mm lang maar met een grotere diameter ik denk dat UM deze op maat laat maken, en deze ook alleen bij UM te krijgen zijn. Na een aantal dagen nog steeds niets vernomen van de UM help desk :( ik voel me een beetje genegeerd ! gelukkig kon ik de beschadigde lager eenigsins repareren, alleen een deel van de lager was verbogen, en kon ik die er af zagen en weer monteren. ideaal is het niet, maar tot dat UM reageert moet ik het hier mee doen.

A thread right up my ally (sorry for showing off, and the many pictures) a very small collection of the stuff I Made in my 20 years as a modelmaker. A 40" diameter highly detailed Stargate with lights 1:87 scale VOC ship (one of many) I make my own furniture: Round Audio tower TV stand iMac stand My own Astromechs Model painting of a Raptor, and home made Base Scale model of a high performance yacht Maquette of 3 windmils (all rotate) Scale model of a Yacht 1:24 scale Blaak train station and trains for Madurodam miniature city I could go on

Hmmm, iemand een idee hoe ik de aandacht van het support team kan krijgen, of ligt het aan mij (ruikt aan oksels....hmm valt mee) zo moeilijk is mijn vraag toch niet ?

Ik heb al een paar keer een support ticket aangemaakt, maar er wordt niet meer gereageerd :( wie kan me helpen om nieuwe glijlagers te kopen, een van de 8mm is beschadigd (eigen schuld), nu staat de printer al een tijd stil, en van UM hoor ik niets meer, en de feestdagen zijn nu wel een beetje voorbij ! wat ik zoek is dezelfde glijlagers van 8mm (intern) X 30mm en in Ned te verkrijgen. Wie maakt me blij

Have you looked into the wall thickness ? I like to print most of my objects with a thick wall 1.5mm or more, this gives it more rigidity when sanding the part, and I noticed when I forgot to add the thick wall, there was also a step in the outer wall, when the layer went from a more solid infill to a more hollow print.

Don't get me wrong, but I think this kind of support is for Stereolithography, and not really suitable for Ultimaker. you might be able to bridge some spans with certain settings, but you really need support with a larger surface area. (I wish Daid would bring back the old style, easy removable, support back)

Made a simple portable iPad stand, usable with a 8mm rod or a pencil. printed with a silver PLA, that gives darker and lighter bands during printing, I don't know why, but it looks great 0.2mm height and 25% infill and my first posting on YouImagine https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ipad-stand

Just print them as a set, so the PLA has time to cool between layers

This is the most detailed parts I have printed so far, the details on the hand were printed separate, but I did not think the Ultimaker was capable of this fine smooth detail, I was wrong this inspired me to do more detailed prints. there is a small secret to make these fine details without creating a molten pile of PLA

I have tried OsiriX, when I donated my kidney for my mother last year, I tried to make a 3d model of my kidney, but it is not easy, a lot of programs that claim to be able to do it, cost a lot of cash. OsiriX is able to read the my scan files and make a clear image, but have not found a way to export the data to a 3d file http://www.osirix-viewer.com/