xeno

Should have known

Wouldn't it be nice idea if Cura had he option to input the average weight of the filament, to get a more accurate estimate how much material a print would take ? I always weigh the roll to make certain I can print the object, if the roll is almost empty,

I what program did you make this model ? it might be a non closed surface causing this problem. some CAD programs like sketchup are not good in creating watertight models.

Maybe one of the "Fix Horrible A-B" boxes it ticked in the expert menu ?

If he was regularly( more then 2) posting about some great prints made, but his 2 postings are just links to the site, and not even printed on an Ultimaker At least if he would have show the printing buildup and painting, how it was done, then I would not have a problem with this

So you made the account to spam your website ? http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?21760-This-3D-design-of-Darth-Sidious-is-sick!&p=86600#post86600 https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/3d-design-darth-sidious-sick

Before you start a scan you can choose and see in a preview screen, if you want to scan a bright or dark object, it auto adjusts the brightness, and even has a option for objects that have both dark and light parts. But with all light bases scanners, (projector or laser) you always have the problem of lighter and darker parts beings scanned differently, because of the light absorption. I use that to draw shapes with a black marker on the support, so the software easily sees that lowered structure in the scan. you do have a limit to what size and distance you can scan, but because the scan stitching software works fantastic, you can make scans of very large objects, as long as the software has a reference point to attach the next scan onto. it even projects a cross onto the object, so you can see of the focus is a good distance from the scanner. I have seen images of a large engine scan, and looks very nice

My scans were done with the Einscan -s, not the pro version the Einscan-s is around $1000,- The pro version can be handheld, the S version must be in it's stand or a tripod, and I believe the pro version also uses a different more pro software. And don't forget you probably need a more beefy PC to cope with the software and files size

I have the Einscan-s, it's a great scanner with easy to use software, that is very good stitching separate scans together. But I found out, that the advertises 20cm scan height on the turntable is only 16cm high in real use :( but there is also the 70X70X70cm free scan mode. The software always makes a closed printable version of the scan, after finishing, there is currently no option in the software to scan a surface and to save it as a separate scan, but I was told that you could export the separate scans in the project folder (freescan), to Meshlab or Meshmixer. have a look here: http://3dprintboard.com/forumdisplay.php?130-Einscan-S-3D-scanner here are some examples of my first few scans:

You could try one of the older versions of Cura, that still has the old print dialogue screen, I always print my G-Code with the older Cura, while the later versions with pronterface UI, gave major problems.

Nonsense !

Add me to the "No Auto slicing " group, it's a pain in the B.. if not, then repair the possibility to adjust certain parameters while it's slicing, I also work with high poly-count models, and have to remove the object from the platform to adjust certain settings :( I frequently have to check certain models to see how fast it can be printed, and how much material is used with certain settings. and having to keep on moving the model in and out of the center is just a pain.

your best bet would be to buy a UM+ and rebuild the frame to the width you need, I have doubled the height, and did need to adjust some parts like longer wires, and adjusted z-plaform and rails. adding sideways 10cm to the construction would probably be doable, just make larger body panels, and enlarging the z-stage. but I don't know if you can get a heated bed at that format you might have to change the rods that support the print head to a thicker diameter.

Hey J, first of all tell, us what you workflow is, setting up the printer, what kind of filament you are using and settings in Cura. Next post some images of the results and problems you are getting, these will greatly help in understanding what is going on

Those should be your build area dimensions

I think I heard somewhere before that 3DS Max has trouble making watertight STL's, you might want to run the STL's trough Meshmixer to see what the inspector finds, and maybe adjust the way you draw.

The plot thickens man-krijgt-boete-heling-3d-printer

Too funny

I also talked about having the possibility to use single layer drawings, to draw your own support structure or open parts kinds of problems. Maybe this could help with your problem, you will have to have a solid, so you can print with spiralize, and cut the unusable part away, this way you can draw the solid, and you know where to cut, and leave a nice clean edge. I always cut, with one of these, they are very thin, and leave a pretty clean edge.

Nice, although the vid is a bit washed out to see details

Those bad pulleys have been discovered a very long time ago, a member even did a small run of adjusted pulleys, that were a great improvement. I can't believe they still ship new UM kits with those terrible parts :(

It was bound to happen, will be interesting to see how this develops, and if Thingiverse and Youimagine will change their policies to protect from abuse. If this is allowed by law, it could jeopardise the willingness for users to upload their drawings, I know I would !

is er info of dit ook op een UM original zou kunnen werken ?

I still think after all these years that it was a shortsighted decision, but UM made it clear, especially Daid, that they just didn't care I just use a mac mini with an older version of Cura, that still has the full and perfectly working print menu, and just let it print the Gcode file I create on my downstairs iMac the classic print menu gives a much better overview then the way too small screen of the Ulticontroller. I just like to able to see and control my old and trusty UM original, from downstairs or from anywhere else I know that having a free from cable printer is the future, but not until it has a better and larger screen to work with. it now looks like a inkjet printer screen from the 90s

Haven't posted in a while Here are a set of Badges for the Global Force movie, printed in black Colorfabb XT, and hand painted in different versions. This chrome version has a bit too much paint on it, the spray-can nozzle was terrible.