xeno

Dat is de gevreesde Z-Scar, dat is het punt waar de z-as een stap lager gaat, en de print kop een fractie van een seconde stilstaat, voordat deze de volgende laag print. Ik weet niet of daar al een mooie oplossing voor was, om het begin en eind punt van een laag random te plaatsen. Ik meen ook dat daarom de Spiral knop was uitgevonden. (voormalig Joris setting) maar dit werkt alleen met enkele wand laag.

What printers are you using ? First thing that comes to mind, is taking the SD card to early out of the PC, and the g code is not fully written on the SD card, maybe both of you can post the g-code file, so the experts can take a look. And let us know, what exactly happens, does the print head just stop, and keeps on extruding and heating the head, or does the print head move to the homing position ?

While it is possible, would you want to give up the 3 min nozzle change ? and instead having to disassemble the entire print head

It is great software, and I hope I can pay the US price I hope my current Beta version wont stop working,

This is a great bargain, I have been using Rhino for some years, and the OSX version was always a free beta, and was not completely functional, for Autocad users it easy to use, as the commands are mostly the same I don't know how long the bargain is going to last, but € 200,- cheaper is a lot http://www.rhino3d.com/sales/europe/Netherlands/all/?PageSpeed=noscript [edit] After contact with a distributor, it seems that the full version for OSX is not comparable with the full Win version, he will send me a list of differences that are not on the OSX version. Like Plug-ins is not working at the moment, but will be implemented soon as a free upgrade. But even with the Beta version, I could do all the things I wanted to get great parts to print [/edit] [edit2] and yes I forgot this is ex VAT, total price is € 356,95 incl VAT that is more close to uncomfortably too expensive :( Guess I'll have to try and buy it with US dollars, that is much cheaper [/edit2]

Zou het een Chinese clone zijn ? de batch die toen gestolen waren hadden wel een serie nummer.

Maybe the feeder is too tight and squishing the filament, and it has a hard time being pushed through the Bowden tube.

You have to give us more information, instead of "it doesn't work" Post some images of the problem, your settings and speeds, and brand filement Place of birth, printing location, temperature outside, inside, humidity, shoe size, name of girlfriend, brand smartphone.....

First check all the wires and plugs are plugged in correctly and not loose. if it still does not work, give us more information on exactly what is not happening

Ik zie op dit moment veel goedkope UM2's worden aangeboden, met € 300,- onder de prijs ? z.g. Beursprinters die niet veel gedraaid hebben, Iemand een idee of dit wel klopt, of een "Too good to be true "aanbiedingen zijn ? Beide teksten zijn vrijwel hetzelfde, maar locatie is verschillend. of de batch van gestolen UM2's Advertentie 1 Advertentie 2

All the recomended settings can be found on the Colorfabb website, just click the "Tips & Trics"tab of the color you chose

The pic is a little small, but it looks like you are going too fast, and maybe a little hotter by a few degrees.

you can use heavy books, or something like it, to keep the filament from moving or bending the wrong way.

I connect the parts with a lighter, and works fine, I make a clean straight cut, heat the ends and press together, the trick is to hold it steady until it really cools, then remove the excess material at the sides with a rough file.

De caps die de (draaiende) assen opsluit, hoeven niet strak tegen de behuizing te zitten, je draait deze aan tot er geen speling, heen en weer, meer is. deze caps moet je ook geregeld controleren, om te voorkomen dat er speling ontstaat en de print kwaliteit beïnvloed.

Als ik het goed begreep zijn er 2 maten van as lengtes, check voor de zekerheid dat deze op de goede plek zitten, uitsteken mogen ze niet, maar moeten strak opgesloten zitten met de caps, dus ook geen speling. je moet inderdaad een beetje bewerken om de delen goed in elkaar te krijgen, dit zorgt wel voor een strakke passing, wat nodig is. als je een paar foto's post, kunnen een beter beeld krijgen van je problemen

This could be several problems, is the nozzle diameter set correct, or the feedrate. the feeder screw can be changed, but too tight will deform the filemant, and could need more force to push through the bowden tube, too lose and it will loose grip. check the hobbelt bolt if it is clean, try to make a pic what the filament looks like after it is pushed through the feedr (teeth marks) and if you are not sure if your Cura settings are correct, you can do a reset of all settings.

I experienced the same, the black does give the smoothest result, white is always more sticky out of the nozzle and gives a rough blobby surface, I tried many setting, but it's never as smooth as black, I'll prob never will use it again. I Maybe it's because of certain pigments that influence the print

There is someone spamming the YouMagine site with links to torrent files ! [Edit} links have already vanished [/Edit]

As far as I know, there are some very small metal parts inside the little gripper, Like Valcrow said, cut off 5mm of the end, and when you insert the bowden tube inside the nylon bit, push it down, and wiggle the tube a bit, this will allow for the metal bits to grip the tube better. and print that bowden tube holder asap or find someone in your neighbourhood who can do it for you, if you can't find anyone, let me know I can make one for you, but I am in Holland and shipping to you could take some time and you can even print one for dual heads while your at it http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34680

You prob need one of these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864 my Bowden popped all the time, but this clamps it really well. but first you need to clean the top real good, the tip is easy removable, you will have toe heat it up to 220C, and while holding the aluminium block, twist off the brass tip. then you can hold the tip over your stove and heat it up, try to pry with a metal pin to remove any gunk that is still in there. removing goes similar to this when you removed the tip, check if you can see through the hole, and nothing further is blocking the PLA from running through, if that is the case, then you will have to disassemble the whole head :(

While I agree with some of the postings, I also disagree with a lot. Usually when I see a message that a Forum will be updated and offline for an hour, it usually means 1 or 2 days before it is usable again. when it says "change to a new forum" I know it will take 3 to 5 weeks before it is a usable format. change is always hard, but the longer you nag, and not contribute, it will take longer for it to become a nice place again. But I do suggest maybe making thread that only mods can post in, to show what changes are made or going to be made, that will settle a lot of confusion, now it is just a waiting game and not visible what changes have been made. I know this forum style is here to stay, and only helping can change it back into the informative forum we need and want ! chill out guys

Wouldn't it be better to reset all the Cura settings to default, then you know for sure alle settings are correct to begin with ? File--> reset profile to default

Yep, happy news, This morning...was already logged in, and....no spam in sight Nice one, keep up the fight