LePaul

What he said... I'd also be curious what layer thickness you are trying to print with. (0.1? 0.2?) While every PLA is different, I start out warmer (210-215) for the first layer and then back off the temperature to 200 or so. While I like fast prints, I have learned that slower (35-40) produces better work results. I've used Ultimaker brand PLA, ColorFabb PHA/PLA (favorite!) and MatterHackers Pro Series PLA with good results.

If you haven't already, put in a support ticket or I can tag @SandervG so he is aware of your issue

Fan didn't spin?

If you have a 9 volt battery and apply power to the fan plug (hopefully you have some thin wire to attach to each)....does it spin?

When I was reading your initial post, my mind recalled The Palette kickstarter project. I think we have a thread in here about it, we were curious how it would bond between filaments and maintain the uniform diameter (2.85+/-) to print well.

Agree And on the list of printers, the trailing Ultimaker graphic should be removed...how many times do we need to see Ultimaker?

What an interesting and detailed write up

I'm OK with the software insulting me. I'd even consider sending you a beer in your favorite liquid measurement units. But a pint of beer isn't metric

I wonder if one of those infrared/laser temperature sensors would be accurate enough to measure the print head temperature?

Yes, I've pondered what's new for this fall With the Olsson block being so popular, I was hoping to see an announcement of an Ultimaker 3 with larger print volume, better feeder, print head....and makes coffee

...and I just HAD to like both posts

Hi @SandervG Yes, a different color, such as what it does in the layer view. Or, probably a bigger hassle for the programmers, a button that says "Show Support Material" You are thinking much as I am, so that the view displayed is more representative of what the Ultimaker will produce. As you pointed out, perhaps what 0.2 mm layers would look like versus 0.04 Anything that informs the user of potential issues would be good. And perhaps said suggestions can be disabled in the advanced settings for more experienced users who do not want them/need them. In my mind, I am still very much a newbie but learning more as I read the forums everyday. Not everyone has the time to follow the forums, so if Cura is tweaked to embrace the novice users more, that helps create a better experience printing

Thank you for that....yes, I have printed and use one of those clips on the extruder! I had issues with the Bowden trying to lift up from the extruder (noisy!) and someone suggested that part addition.

Ahhh my bad. Its really weird you got a faulty jumper

I thought assembled printers were tested....did a robot test print and was included in the packaging? Or was that for the Ultimaker Originals that were bought assembled? (I thought I recall some videos of people unboxing their new printer and a test print was inside?) It seems like something like this issue would have been caught prior to shipping?

How do these wonderful deals keeping happening so far from pay day?

Maybe this option is there and I have missed it... ....but the only way to see the support material and brim/raft is in Layer View. While good, I was curious what people thought about having the support material show up in the default view once they are selected?

I use the layer view and pan around a lot to see where support material will occur. Please don't remove it

@gr5 Here's my default settings...4.5 on the retraction. The Bowden tube is in there snug (I had to replace the Bowden tube, collar and retaining clip a few months ago) Again, Ultimaker Original

@peetersm Thanks...good tips. Have you found the heated bed to be a big improvement over the Original without? I'm tempted to upgrade the bed...but it is money I could use for an Ultimaker 2 Extended

Thank you @gr5 !

I just ordered more...black and white, so I can start printing the pieces for the Star Wars 7 blaster rifle I completely see your point about starting warmer. I may need to replace the blue tape for the next print.

On the Left, at 0.10 , 210C 50mm, no support or raft. On the Right at 0.20, 210C 50mm support and raft (and I was too lazy to clean up) I noticed if I started the print colder it didn't flow well, so 210 worked well all around. I did bring it down to 208 a couple minutes into the print. Overall it looks ok...but curious on how to tweak and improve

Trying out ColorFabb Dutch Orange with the elephant model Ultimaker Original. 210C, 50mm/sec, On Left is 0.1mm (no support/brim) Right is 0.2mm with support and brim (and I was too lazy to clean it all off) How's this look? Any tweaks for improvements?

Did anyone record it?