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gr5

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Everything posted by gr5

  1. You're supposed to contact your reseller. Even if they don't list parts on their website, ALL parts are available. But if it were me I would just buy that bearing on ebay. These are standard bearings - you only need to know 3 dimensions, width, inner diameter, outer diameter. They are almost always integer numbers of mm (for example 3mm, 8mm, 12mm). So you don't have to measure them super accurately (within 0.5mm should be good enough).
  2. set combing to be "everywhere but skin". something like that. Also in layer view, turn on movements (check the box). You can see which moves are retraction versus non-retracting (different shades of blue). You want to make sure these moves are retracting moves (by default they are non-retracting and leave that line you don't like).
  3. ?? Please provide more info. Maybe a photo or diagram, some more words? Try google as well. Maybe this will be informative? https://experimental-creations.com/pulp-mold-block/
  4. It used to be in cura that it would print them in the same order as you load them. Maybe. Although it prints the parts on the "ends" twice (with a layer shift in between). Anyway one solution might be to wait one layer and every other layer it should reverse directions (I think).
  5. Autodesk can save files as STL files. Cura reads STL files.
  6. He got back to me (Jacky). He already knows you. lol. I think he's the one who suggested you post here, lol. Okay so I have nothing. Maybe someone else has a used printer for sale. I'd look around on ebay, facebook marketplace, criagslist, etc.
  7. You can get a replacement board pretty cheap. If it's less than a year old then probably for free. I think it's okay to email fbrc8.com directly. They make UM3 printers (for USA customers only) (and S5 and S3 etc) and so have all the parts and have a thriving shipping department. Or you can contact your reseller. Regardless, make sure to include your UM3 serial number in your communications with either the reseller or fbrc8.
  8. Yes, once fixed you can go back to ssh. It's not clear if your printer is working or not but if you have one typo in (for example) a json file on the printer then it halts the boot process before ssh daemon is started which sort-of bricks your printer. The olimex is a cheap (around 10 euros) and easy solution to find the error message and fix the typo on a UM3 or S3. Or to modify network settings (use connman utility). Someone with recent firmware and an S5 also complained about ssh not working anymore.
  9. I sent a message to someone who has dozens of UM printers in Vancouver but these machines last forever so it's hard to find a broken one or cheap one. I'd try facebook marketplace or ebay.
  10. You can switch to the other icon on the left side that lets you move the part(s) around. If you have a lot of parts (like say 10 or 100) you can group them and move them that way.
  11. I don't know any shortcuts but when you scale there are 2 ways - by distance or by percentage. Make sure the scale "lock" symbol is locked and scale by a percentage then use the same percentage for all the other STL files. For example 81% could be the scale for all the STL files. Note that cura remembers the scale so you can go back and scale a part and if it was already scaled then it shows that value.
  12. What country and area within that country do you live. Maybe someone would loan you one. Maybe a reseller. As a moderator I know what country you are in but don't want to out you if you value your privacy. But I happen to know some people in your country who used to be in the movie business and who might let you rent one very cheaply.
  13. Oh and the boards inside the S5 and UM3 are Olimex boards. With I think an "A20" processor if that means anything (not sure if that's a processor). More hints here: An alternative to ssh is to get an olimex cable. it has 3 connectors to olimex on one end and a USB on the other end such that you can do a serial rs232 connection as a console. Username/password is root/ultimaker.
  14. Try a "cura connect reset" on the S3 panel. This fixes a huge amount of problems, some of which have nothing to do with the network. I'm wondering if this is a new feature. Maybe they moved the ssh port to a "hidden" port? ssh works find on my UM3 and S5 but I don't have an S3. I assumed it would be the same. A port scanner should be able to detect which port. But I kind of doubt the port was moved. When in developer mode does your S3 show the IP address at the top of the display? Mine does.
  15. This is tricky as you aren't showing the sides of the print. This is called underextrusion. But when this happens on the bottom layer then 99% of the time it is because the nozzle is too far from the print bed. On an ultimaker sdon't relevel - simply adjust the 3 screws equal amounts to bring the bed up. This is a very common problem (bottom layer underextruded) - maybe in the top 2 most common problems. It also causes the parts to not stick well. However if this is happening on the top layer you could have other issues. What kind of printer is it and please show a photo of the sides and top. It could be simplyl that you don't have good infill (not dense enough). Usually 20% infill is enough along with 6 top layers. The sides of your part may also be experiencing underextrusion. That has a different look to it. I'd like to see a photo of that as well.
  16. Well I have 154 of those files and for me they are all in the ~/cura/share/cura/resources/ folder. I really don't know where they are on windows.
  17. Yes, much better. It is very easy to install firmwares. Once you have done it once, you can always go back to an official version of Marlin from Ultimaker. Just try it. Here are a few features: Ability to alter Z height on the fly while it prints the bottom layer to fix your leveling using only the main control knob. Ability to continue a failed print (for example if you left the room and it ran out of filament or if you lost power for a minute). Ability to adjust the speed (by a percentage) and see the ACTUAL speed the print head is moving at that moment while you adjust. Many more things are displayed while printing. Just lots of tiny little features like ability to set steps/mm and many other parameters that are normally only available by recompiling the firmware. Just try it! 🙂 You can always go back.
  18. You need to drag things out of the zip file before using them. You probably can't typically drag something that's inside a zip file directly into cura. So for example create a folder to hold all STL files and then when you get a zip file with an STL in it, open the STL folder and open the zip file and drag across the STL file(s). Then from the STL folder you can drag them right into cura once cura is launched.
  19. For example settings.def.json files you should look around in the folders that Cura creates. For example on windows I think maybe it's in %appdata%/cura. On linux I think it's in ~/cura/share/cura/resources/ Just search for files on your computer *.def.json.
  20. FYI - "cura connect reset" is done on the machine and it fixes many many issues that have nothing to do with cura connect.
  21. This is on purpose. If you look more carefully - on the right side there is a blue dot both at the top and bottom of the vertical slider. If you want the old behavior then only move the top blue dot. You moved the new dot - the bottom one - that wasn't in the older version of cura.
  22. That gcode looks fine. Sounds like a new firmware bug for the Um3. This sounds familiar. @Dim3nsioneer - is this a new firmware bug possibly? Is there an older version of the UM3 firmware that doesn't do this? What version of the firmware do you have Pia92?
  23. Ooops. my mistake. The problem is with the Z speed. In cura it's called "maximum z speed". Also you should get rid of the "z hop" feature unless you are using a delta printer. For non-delta printers the z-hop makes your print uglier and increases stringing.
  24. I think the problem is this line of code: G1 F17987547480000 Z1.3 Which I thought was fixed in the latest cura. That's the speed of light. The speed of light is the default extruder speed. I don't know why. Anyway the workaround is to give the extruder a speed. Any speed should work. In Cura it's called I think "retraction speed". Or get the latest cura.
  25. If it were me I would get the olimex cable (I sell one in my store at thegr5store.com for usa only) and see if the olimex board is at least booting. But I'm cheap. And I'm comfortable with linux. If this machine is less than a year old then you are probably still be under warrantly and should contact your reseller. The solution might be to reinstall the firmware. Or it might be a hardware issue. The firmware installation procedure is explained here:
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