gr5

To print peek and ultem you really need the bed to get up to 160C. This is the bigger issue for converting. You also need the air temp around 80C which is bad for the steppers so you need to keep the steppers cool somehow (enclose them away from the hot air and add air or water cooling perhaps). The core's themselves probably don't really need any modification. I've heard that the 350C limit is more for the head itself than for the cores. Something in the head gets too hot if you have two cores at 350C I suspect. c-coat may indeed help on this last aspect (keep the heat in the brass block where it belongs).

I have never heard of this issue before. Maybe the wifi circuit is completely broken. I'd contact your reseller. They might want to see the logs.

Filaments that have a lot of particles added will ooze more. For example white PLA tends to have a lot of something in it - I think chalk maybe. And is a more difficult color to print. Darker colors are easier. If you are oozing a lot then lowering the temperature always helps. You should do retraction but be very careful - if you retract too much it lets air in and you get more oozing - you have to play with it. Basically you want to remove pressure without actually pulling anything out of the nozzle. Anyway if you want help with other problems please start a new topic and include a photo.

Hi there @Alex L, I have printed even smaller people but you have to change a few things: 1) Print several at a time. At least 5. This way each one can cool while it's printing another. Cooling is a problem when printing this small. I like around 10. Usually one falls over so I don't like to print too many as sometimes one can mess up a few others. 2) Lower the temp if using .25mm nozzle. Try 190C or even 180C. Don't go below 175C because if the temperature dips below 170C the feeder will not rotate (it's a feature - there is a way around this - see "cold extrude" - if you want to go lower). 3) Crank the fan at 100% although this is default anyway. 4) I like brim but your brim is bigger than needed. Some of the people I printed had tiny feet and I adjust the brim so that it made a nice stand so they don't fall over when moving them around in my landscape. I've printed 2cm tall people using 0.1mm nozzles and I'm very happy with them.

Nylon is stiff. It's just flexible enough to be very tough. I think it's really hard to explain in words unless you've tried a few *slightly* flexible materials. Hmm. Like wood. But without the grain. People don't tend to think of wood as flexible but compared to aluminum it's quite flexible. Nylon is too flexible for gears but this above application looks perfect for Nylon. There's no way it would ever crack -- tear maybe -- but it will stretch 10% before tearing. There is an "elongation at break" or "elongation at yield" specification for most materials that tells you how much it will stretch before it breaks. All filaments - well 99% of filaments - have a materials specification sheet of some sort. Just google the material and "modulus" and it should have lots of temperature and physical characteristics like this. That's where I got the data for my graph.

If you want good impact strength then you want it to be somewhat flexible. Nylon is pretty amazing for impact strength. If you need it to be strong - say a link in a chain then strength is much more important than flexibility. If you are making a quadcopter arm or typical structural element then nylon is too flexible. If you are making a gear you don't want the teeth to be very flexible at all - it needs to be stiff and strong. So it depends what you are making and how it is used. It's easy to get materials that are more or less flexible. It's hard to get materials that are stronger. Everyone wants stronger. Steel is pretty amazing for stiff and strong. No plastics come close. If it's flexible enough it's indestructable (you can twist it into a knot and it won't break) but many applications don't want something that flexible.

Perfect. Well this is strange. In normal view (not layer view) I see the same thing - when I clicked only on the queen as you can see below (she's outlined in blue) that she has this HUGE box around her and in the upper left you can see that cura thinks she is 189mm by 106mm in X and Y. I don't know why. Did you create these models or download them? I'm thinking there is a tiny line or dot or surface feature very far to the left of most of these chess pieces. If you created these yourself then see if there is something over there you can delete or at least avoid exporting to STL. If you didn't create these yourself you could try passing them through the netfabb repair service. It's free but requires you to create an account. Or you could just print this in 2 batches.

Use one of these. Problem solved. Do it in the back where no one will notice. If later you change your mind you can fill the hole with some caulk. How does your enclosure deal with filament? Note that PLA is the preferred material for 95% of needs yet it does not like it if the air gets above 25C so you will need pretty good air flow.

You can try uploading it here. If that doesn't work the post it anywhere else - say dropbox - then supply us a link. The gpu thing is mostly unrelated.

Is it a layer shift for sure? or just an underextruded layer? An underextruded layer would make more sense as it was dripping for a while - you could lift the lever on the feeder and slide some more filament in just before you start - but not too much or it will overextrude I think. For normal loading of filament I slide it in until it stops then back off about 1cm. Not sure how much to back off on a "resume" as I've never tried it on a UM3.

Again. Install pronterface. Move Z and E known amounts. It's very simple. Click the circled button:

Normally on the UM2 you do not set the temperature in cura. You set it on the printer. When you change materials you can tell the UM2 what material it is and it's supposed to load a set of material properties that includes bed temperature, nozzle temperature, fan speed, retraction distance and I forget if there's anything else. So normally if you want to change or customize the temperature you go into the materials customize menu on the printer (not in cura) and you can adjust (and save) your settings there. If you are saving after you hit save, select the material you want to save it into (that step is not always obvious). So I'm a bit confused that Cura allows you to set the temperature at all. In cura machine settings you can set it up to do "ultigcode" which is normal for UM2 (and um2+ - it's no different - all um2 series uses ultigcode). Or you can set it up in other modes such as "reprap" mode which overrides any material settings on the printer. In any mode other than ultigcode you set nozzle temp in Cura.

I don't recommend it but you have 2 choices: 1) Just change filament diameter to 1.75 and go for it. Make sure to print extra slow so the melted ABS doesn't go upwards out the top of the core. Probably 20mm/sec at 0.1 layers to be safe. Or you can play with the speed on the tune menu until it starts underextruding. 2) There are some 1.75 conversion methods. I sell one in my store for people in USA only. It's a bit complicated but I have one customer who absolutely loves it. They make their own custom filament and it breaks when they extrude it at 2.85 so they are forced to print 1.75. I sell a "1.75" core and have special bowden techniques that are more complicated than normal but not too bad. So if you have say $1000 worth of 1.75mm filament it might be worth it. If it's just 2 spools it's probably not worth it. Also I hate ABS so if it's all ABS I would just throw it out. There are so many filaments that are so much easier to print and have better characteristics than ABS (heat, strength, quality).

ABS! I don't think you mentioned that. That explains a bit. If you have a heated bed you want it at 110C and I don't recommend blue tape. But if you insist on blue tape you need to wash it with isopropyl alcohol first to get the wax off of it. Also for ABS it's important to enclose the machine. The quick way is just put some saran wrap on the sides and front and put a cardboad box over the top. You want the air to get up to about 35C inside the printer. This will allow the heated bed also to get up to 110C (hard to get that hot without enclosing the printer. If you don't do this your ABS parts may look fine but they will be weak along layer lines (bad layer adhesion). And they will have a kind of "grain" to them. Properly printed parts will have no weak grain.

The bed stays hot the whole 7 hours, right? Because you don't want the bed to cool - if it does the part will likely come loose enough to look like a shift.

The feature you want to turn off is called "make overhang printable". In your screen shot just above all the settings do you see that box that says "search..."? Type "printa" there. It will then show even invisible settings.

Oh - and I really really really doubt it's cura. But you could just look at the code and search for "Z" in the gcode file. There are very few Z's in the file - it's quite self explanatory - just do it. But don't do it - because this has nothing to do with cura. And if the Z axis checks out okay then check the E axis (extruder).

Okay BiaC - you need to learn how to do some debugging. Why didn't you try moving the Z axis exactly 50mm (or some other value) and see if it really moved 50mm? Many controller boards (don't know about prusa) have jumpers that can halve or double how much the Z axis moves. Maybe you removed a jumper or plugged a fan into a jumper spot instead of the correct spot. If the prusa front panel can't move the Z axis manually - for example 10mm exactly, then get pronterface (windows only) and move the Z axis using pronterface. It's free and easy to use and can be found here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

Read about post processing plugins. There are bout 6 of them that come with cura. Look at the code in them. They use python. Python is a general purpose language so you can do anything in a post processing script that you can do in any language. Maybe start by looking at the names of the scripts (go to extensions, post-processing, modify g-code, then click add-a-script. Try to find the python files that go with those script names using grep. They'll be in the same folder tree structure as cura.

Cura does do this. Although I think they changed the name of this maybe. I think it's this one: infill layer thickness It must be an integer of normal layer height. So your example of 0.05 and 0.2 should work. Note that if the part has sloping walls it gets messy. But if your walls are all vertical then it works great.

Check the 2 ribbon cables. You may have them swapped or one may be inserted backwards. If that doesn't help then contact your reseller for help.

This problem is called "overextrusion". By the way, don't say "goodly", say "well". One common cause is if you Z axis is moving the wrong amount. It may be moving half as far as it is supposed to. Try moving the Z axis 30mm and measure how far it moved. If it only moved 15mm then you have narrowed down your problem nicely (to the printer, not cura). (steps/mm is wrong for Z axis). Another common problem is filament diameter - saying you have 1.75mm when you are actually using 3mm filament. This also causes overextrusion. Another common problem is that the extruder is moving the wrong amount. With the nozzle removed and the head cool try moving the filament 100mm and measure how far it moves. If it actually moves 200mm then this is the problem (steps/mm setting is wrong for extruder axis). Make sure flow is set to 100% (not 200%). I see in your picture this is fine.

Cura team doesn't appear to spend too much effort on printing through usb as only the UMO supports that anymore. Cura is mostly just a slicer. I recommend you use Cura to slice and for printing through USB you use pronterface. It has so many more features. Or use octoprint and you can print through your network (purchasing a raspberry pi and octoprint costs about $35 per printer).

It can be done with the UM3 - you can have different nozzle sizes on the two loaded cores. For single nozzle printers you could print 2 different parts that interlock somewhat (for strength) and glue them together. You could also slice the same part with each nozzle and there used to be a plugin in cura 14.X that would splice the two gcode files together. But you can do it yourself with a text editor - splice 2 gcode files together. Learn about G92 first to set the extruder correctly at the splice.

One way to swap direction is to swap 2 of the 4 wires. Pick either twisted pair and pop out those two (you need a jewelers screwdriver - push down in the square hole and it should slide right out if you push down hard enough - there's a tab that keeps it from sliding out) and put them in the other way. Don't forget how they were! I recommend taking a picture first. Or writing down the color that was on the outside. It doesn't matter which pair you swap. If you swap both pairs it will go back to the original direction again. I'm not sure if you can have different steps/mm on each axis. Probably you can in the tinkerMarlin for Mark2 firmware. Probably in all the dual versions of tinkerMarlin you can have different steps/mm.