gr5

I suspect the usb cable that communicates between the two computers. I'm thinking that the arduino is getting errors and asking the linux box to resend the gcodes thousands of times until finally a proper gcode gets through. You should dump the logs and post them to your reseller but I suspect you will have to return this printer to have it repaired. There's a menu option on the S5 to dump the logs to a flash drive. Then you can look at the logs or just email them to your reseller.

really? You created a new root folder for this? Are you sure you don't mean ~/definitions? Or remove the first slash?

You could talk to your IT department. When you connect with your phone or laptop the first time, it asks for your username and password on a webpage, right? The UM3 does not know how to talk to web pages. It isn't set up that way. It doesn't have a web browser. Usually you can provide the IT department with a MAC address and have them make an exception for that MAC address. Or you could try to plug the UM3 into a wired network (instead of wireless). Or you can just use the USB flash drive which works quite well.

I'm not sure. Did you look at this in layer view to see what is happening? It looks like some kind of "z seam" like issue. Most of those are improved by slowing down. Try this: 1) Set all printing speeds to 30mm/sec. All of them. I think there are 6. Leave the non printing speed at 150mm/sec (or faster). That's it. You should get a large increase in quality. If you want to save time print thicker layers (yet still 30mm/sec) and quality will go down but not as badly as if you save time by increasing the printing speeds.

You can turn it off but I suspect it will use the last manual leveling result. Active leveling will assume the plane of the bed is at some tilt. Manual leveling assumes the bed is level after you are done. Since you seem to be competent at manual leveling I would just run manual leveling one more time and never use active leveling again. I haven't used active leveling for 2 years on my UM3 and I've been very happy with that. I can go 100 prints without having to adjust it.

It shouldn't take more than 1 minute. Feel free to power off after 2 minutes and try again. That works also! Make sure to do "FACTORY RESET" on the menu system. It will force you to relevel but is important when changing from a UM2 to a UM2go firmware.

Oh my! That's interesting. @nallath is Ultimaker aware that DNS names that start with "3D" may be a problem for the UM3 and S5? I would be surprised that Unix cares about this but I suppose it's possible.

The thing is I don't think it's easy to define "small features". A simple corner on a massive cube will be considered "small features" if it is a rounded corner. Right? Any definition of "small features" that you come up with for your model probably won't work for the next person. That's why being able to specify exactly where you want to slow down is a great feature of both S3D and Cura. Yes you have to create a second STL file but most CAD software lets you do this quite easily. It may sound like a lot of work but I think it's pretty easy once you've done it a few times.

Well I wouldn't tell the printer anything. I would first of all disable auto leveling because that will heat the cores much too hot for PCL. I would let the printer think that there is PLA in the printer. I would use this device to load and unload all materials (that's what I've done the last few years on my UM3 - I haven't tried the normal loading procedure): https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 Before you load any material you may want to do a cold pull to get the older high temp filament out of the nozzle. After loading the new material I do not use the move command. I just heat the nozzle manually to the desired temp and insert wedgebot and shove the filament hard until it is extruding nicely then retract (manually) about 1cm and remove wedgebot. You probably have to add a cold extrude gcode to your gcode file before printing it. I don't think the UM3 will normally allow the extruder to rotate below 170C. Here is the gcode: M302 S0 If you go to print and the extruder is not rotating then add the above line to your gcode file right after the lines of gcode that heat things up but before the nozzle purge part. It might be that the printer will heat to 200C for the purge even if cura says the printing temp is 60C. Will this be a problem? Try it first. If it's a problem then you can switch cura to reprap mode. In machine settings you can print in reprap mode where cura will have a set of "start gcodes" that you can edit and you can make sure the initial purge is done at 60C. You can add the M302 S0 in the "start gcodes" as well.

I think of it as "buldging corners" as it's a two dimensional issue. But it repeats on each layer. Look for this on any cube you have printed. Avoid those when taking measurements - or at least be aware. In cura just above the settings there is a search box. Many people will tell you to make all settings visible. I don't recommend that. Instead just type "initial" in the search box and all settings (even invisible ones) will appear that have "initial" in the setting name. Or search for "horiz". Again with the threading - add about 0.4mm or 0.5mm to any vertical holes in CAD software. This may seem crazy to have to do but keep in mind that these same sorts of issues happen with injection molding. You even have to change the angles of corners! If you want a 90 degree corner I believe you have to make it 89 degrees in the mold! Plus the whole part shrinks by 0.6% or so with injection molding. Of course usually the mold makers do this kind of thing for you (and charge you $50K).

Sounds good. Higher temperatures tends to result in more stringing/leaking but if it worked I'd stick with what worked.

Once the pva is "damaged" by water no amount of desiccant will help. Or at least it would probably take months to get it dry again. Including resetting the dessicant 5 or 10 times during that time period. Instead you must heat it on the heated bed overnight under a towel at 80C to get it back to "good as new".

lol. Yeah you have the wrong firmware. Probably UM2 firmware. Where did you get it? I recommend tinker Marlin version 16.01 (scroll way down) here. Also it's important to do a "factory reset" from the menu system after you update Marlin at this point as if you don't it might keep using UM2 values on your UM2go and other issues. https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin

Is the heater higher wattage? I agree that a power supply is quite likely. The power supplies that come with UMO, UM2, UM3 series printers are made by meanwell and has several ways it can sense power overload. When it does sense this it only powers off for a few milliseconds typically (well maybe a few 100 milliseconds) which is long enough to reboot the arduino. You can lower the current draw by oiling (just one drop) each of the 6 rods in the gantry. You can lower the current usage paradoxically by raising the power on the heated bed (when the bed is hotter it has a higher resistance and uses less power). Also consider using blue tape and turning off the bed heater for a few prints just to diagnose your issue. If you use blue tape make sure to wash it with isopropyl alcohol to remove the waxy surface - it just takes 5 seconds - you don't have to scrub super hard or anything. Also you will need to re-level of course.

So what you report is two different issues and EXTREMELY common. PLA when it cools it shrinks but stays liquid for a long time (a few milliseconds) while printing so it's basically going down as a liquid rubber band - like snot. This is pulling inward when making those vertical holes and 0.5mm is about right. Sometimes 0.4mm. The most effective solution is to increase the diameter of all vertical holes (but not horizontal holes) by about 0.4 or 0.5mm. Other people just drill the holes out later which seems silly but works quite well and you don't have to sweat what temperature you printed at or how strong the fan was and so on. You can also set "horizontal expansion" to a negative value such as -0.4 but then the outer surfaces will also shrink (which may solve your other problem?). Regarding the exterior dimensions - this is not normal - well it's normal at corners only. So if think of the cube as having 3 edges, 4 of the edges - the vertical ones - are likely sticking out - bulging out. The other 4 should be fine. If you measure the cube such that the micrometer doesn't touch any of those 4 edges you should get that the cube is perfect (within 0.1mm anyway). These bulging corners are caused because the printer slows down for the corners and the pressure in the print head doesn't slow fast enough so it overextrudes as it slows down and then underextrudes as it speeds up again pulling out of the corner. You can fix these by slowing down the print speed when printing edges and shortening the time spent on corners. The former is done by lowering the print speed (all the printing speeds). If you want high accuracy try 30mm/sec. There are other ways to speed up the print without losing quality - print with larger nozzles and/or print thicker layers. The other key thing to do is turn off "acceleration control" and "jerk control" if those are enabled. Those 2 features reduce ringing (which can be quite visible and annoying but I don't care about it and a micrometer does not see ringing at all as it is a very tiny error) but they increase the bulges of corners on cubes. Removing acceleration control means the printer doesn't slow down as long on corners.

@HaiderOfSweden - I'm not sure if you are giving us full information. When you say "it doesn't work" we need more details. Did you find the hotspot? What was the name of the hotspot? Did your phone say it was connected? Were you very careful to avoid https? What message did you get on your phone? People have said that doing a "cura connect reset" makes a world of difference. Some people have to do this several times per week but it works. It works better than rebooting or other "start over" methods. I have never had to do "cura connect reset" and I'm not even sure how to do that but I assume it's in the menus somewhere on the UM3 and S5.

Damn. You should be famous.

You should be able to get pretty good looking parts with 0.8 (2-4X faster than 0.4) as long as you keep the speeds at 30mm/sec. Top surfaces don't look as good but cylinders and cubes look just as good as with 0.4mm and many other shapes do quite well.

Well here is the line of code they are talking about when they say to use #11: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h#L567 As you can see it's the 3950 thermistor. It doesn't say what pullup resistor to use. Did the place that sold these to you tell you what pullup resistor to use? Usually it's 4.7K but some of these have other pullups. If you look at the builder "none" is #0 and if you count down 11 from there it's that one. That's #11. Are you sure your bed isn't 23C? 32C seems awfully hot. 23C sound like typical room temperature. You could heat the bed to 60C and put some PLA on there under a small towel for a few minutes and after things settle bend the pla and it should stay bent at 60C and not at 45C (it gets soft, similar to clay around 52C). Ask the manufacturer of the thermistor what pullup you should use for "marlin sensor 11". Most use 4.7K but some use 1K pullups. Did you install a 4.7K pullup?

This might be available now. Not sure. You can split your cad part into two parts (2 STL files) - the portion that can be printed fast and the portion that should be printed slow. You can put both parts into build plate, set settings for each differently (over on the left side of cura) and then select both parts at the same time, right click, and there is some kind of merge or something in the choices.

I've never saved a profile (instead I use save project - different process but hopefully doesn't matter). Then later I load the project of a similar part that I'm printing this time. Well I assume you are trying to save time. That's really the only reason to use a 0.8. Here are some starter settings to try: 1) Set ALL the line widths (there are maybe 6 of them?) to 0.8mm. 2) Set the wall thickness to an integer multiple of this (e.g. 0.8 or 1.6 or 2.4 or 3.2). If you chose 0.75 for line_width then of course use .75 or 1.5 or 2.25 or 3mm etc). 3) Set printing speed nice and slow - I like 30mm/sec. Thick layer heights and line width is how you get speed without losing quality. Raising the "speed" is not good. More important than setting it to 30mm/sec is to set ALL of the printing speeds (except initial layer which can be 20mm/sec) to the same value. 4) Layer height - I've been happy with 0.3mm and haven't tried 0.4mm. 5) To further save significant time eliminate infill or use variable infill. There may be a bug with variable infill and 0.8mm. I got it to work for me but it was a struggle so leave this disabled (equal to 0) initially. 6) To further save time make your wall width thin - I like 2 passes (1.6mm) 7) Make sure it doesn't retract on layer change - that was my biggest annoyance with the AA 0.8 profile that I sometimes start with. 8 ) Turn off accel control and jerk control. If you don't like the resulting ringing then turn them back on. I prefer the ringing over the reduced tolerances (for example you get bulging corners with accel control turned on). It's okay to start with the AA 0.8 profile. I've just had bad luck with it and have had to change so many things that it seems almost better to start with AA 0.4 but I don't think I ever actually started with AA 0.4 myself.

Oh and the zits are sometimes associated with retraction but mostly with printing too fast. If you want your parts to look prettier you have to have patience and set *all* the printing speeds to 30mm/sec and if that fixe things speed it up slowly from there. You can play with the speed while it's printing in the TUNE menu but it's important that all the speeds are the same for the prettiest prints (no speeding up and slowing down as these cause under and over extrusion).

You have two completely unrelated issues. Your PVA is underextruding badly. Your black plastic (is it pla? Or Nylon? It doesn't look like nylon) has some zits. I don't know if you care about those. The overhangs on your part aren't so great because the PVA did almost nothing. PVA can absorb water pretty easily. If humidity is high, sometimes even in just the time it takes to do one print. Ultimaker PVA takes longer to absorb water than some other brands but leaving it on your printer for a few days is much too long if humidity is higher than 60%. Basically where 95% of humans live in the summer is too much humidity. If the PVA has absorbed a lot of water it will snap crack pop and sizzle and you might see steam. The PVA will be snowy white and less transparent. Basically though if it is only *slightly* to wet it will look fine but won't print as well (similar to what I see in your photo). I suspect you need to dry it. I recommend putting it on the heated bed of the printer at 80C (no hotter!) with a towel over it for at least 2 hours to get the outer meter of filament (if you have a small print that only needs a meter or so of pva) and overnight to get most of the reel. Then never leave it on the back of the machine even when printing - I keep it in a 2 gallon ziplock just open enough to let the filament out with a large dessicant pack (20 grams) that changes color when the desiccant needs to be reset (often).

The core should be way over powered. It can go to 350C easily although not recommended. Did you remove the top of the print head? It takes 30 seconds - remove rear two screws, remove the back half of the head. It looks like huge section of the head might come off but it's just the top few millimeters and you can see inside and reduce the strain on the wires.