gr5

XXL Christmas ornament?

I just looked up the mechanical properties of ASA and it's right about the same as ABS and PLA for both strength and flexibility. Maybe slightly stiffer (more brittle) but I don't think anyone would notice a difference with typical testing (hammer testing, pull testing, etc). You'd need professional equipment to tell the difference. The elongation at break at 15% was pretty impressive but not very meaningful as it may be incredibly weak there - better would be "elongation at yield" so it's hard to say if it's brittle or not but it probably is slightly more brittle than PLA. If you bend the raw filament in a circle does it snap like spaghetti? http://labiche-renard.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/ApolloX-TDS-Formfutura-1.pdf

I don't know what you mean. Your top layers are concentric instead of diagonal infill. Is that what you mean? Or do you not want your part to be hollow? Making the part solid will not likely make it any stronger. Bones are hollow for a reason - there is almost no strength gain to make them solid. I guess I need to see how you are using the part to show where to make it stronger but in general if your walls are at least 5% as thick as the entire thickness of the part then the next way to make it stronger is to make it bigger. But PLA and ABS are impressively strong. This part should be able to handle my weight (175 pounds) pulling on it when printed properly in either PLA or ABS. If all you care about is strength then stay away from ABS. I could go on and on about material properties...

Am I supposed to be seeing a problem in these photos? Did you change anything between when it *did* the prime purge until when it *didn't* do the primer purge? Maybe you upgraded the firmware on the printer? Or installed a new version of cura (I thought the priming was done in the firmware - not in cura - but I don't know for sure).

Other possibility: "gradual infill steps" might not be zero.

Strange - you don't have any walls either. It looks like you are using the "per model settings" feature on the left side of cura which overrides infill settings. Is that possible? It's here: Anyway if my first and second guesses are both wrong then you need to attach the project file please. Do "file" "save project..." and post the result in this topic or post it to some sharing site like dropbox/google drive and post a link to it. That will let us see your STL file, how you scaled and placed it and all your settings.

@smartavionics - 2 questions: 1) What gcode analysis software are you using? I've used 3 different ones but this one looks better than the ones I've been using. 2) Wow - 0.5mm line width with 0.4mm nozzle? Cura defaults in the other direction: 0.35mm line width using a 0.4mm nozzle. What is up with that? What is the reasoning/logic of going one way versus the other? Personally it seems like you are at a higher risk of underextrusion using the wider-line method as the extruder has to push that much harder.

Can you show a screen shot of the model in normal view and layer view please? Make sure if you are printing with extruder 1, the infill is set on extruder 1 (blue border pointed to by red arrow below). Make sure the name of the setting is the same as shown below.

ABS glass temp is about 99C. You want to be above that so the bed needs to be 110C to be safe. When slightly above this temperature ABS acts like clay (PLA gets soft around 52C so you want the bed at 60C). This way when the part warps it can be absorbed throughout the base of the part and keeps it on the bed. Yes it will change shape but in very tiny amounts that are smaller than the errors in the printer anyway. This absorbs the stresses and spreads them out. There are other tricks to make the part stick better that are mentioned in posts above and also in detail in this video:

You are probably underextruding. The bottom layer, including the brim, is typically squished the most (levelled such that it squishes the bottom layer the most). So if higher layers have fine gaps then your printer is most likely underextruding although a photo would help. I doubt the problem is related to cura. Try raising the temp by 10C and also cutting the speed in half to see if that helps. If it does then you know for sure it was underextruding. There are many causes for underextrusion - if we are sure that is the problem then tell me what kind of printer you have so I can give you some hints. Please post a photo of the part and let us know if my suggestion (half speed) helps.

Don't tighten the belts, tighten the screws that hold the pulleys onto the shafts. Consider marking both with a marker to see if they are slipping. More here: https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning

Yes. Exactly what smithy said. 3dsolex.com sells olsson blocks. The um2go comes with the original ultimaker block before Ultimaker started adding Olsson blocks to their printers. They added it to the UM2 and UM2ext but not the um2go. I also modified my um2go to use the 3dsolex heated bed upgrade kit. disclaimer: I sell both of these products in my store for people in USA.

You need an electronics expert who can read schematics. Personally I would probably just buy another. But some other things to try: check for hot components. If a part is shorting the 5v to ground it will be quite hot. an infrared camera can help. Or just your fingers. Otherwise it's probably the voltage regulator. That's the component that lowers the 12V to 5V. Do you have a copy of the schematic? ULTIMAKER 2 SCHEMATIC - click "raw": https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)/Main Board V2.1.1.pdf

This is a very common problem with all materials other than PLA. I call it "layer adhesion" problems. If your parts break along layer lines it's almost always layer adhesion issues. Parts, when printed properly, will not have grain. The problem is the layer below the one being printed is too cold and the layer being placed now is not melting the layer below so you don't get good layer adhesion. The fix is in a word: heat. 1) Turn off the fan or lower it to the absolute lowest setting where it still rotates. 1% on a UM3, 30% on a UM2. Every printer is different. If the fan is off your quality may go down a bit - especially on overhangs. So a little bit of fan is usually good. But if you are printing a cube with no overhangs then consider turning it off completely. 2) Raise the air temp. Best way is to cover the top and sides of the printer. For any UM printer this is very easy to do. Box for the top. Saran wrap for the sides. Easy. 35C is a good goal temp for the air. It will make a huge difference in layer adhesion and also warping. 3) Raise the nozzle temp - this is usually a bad idea. For example with ABS this will cause it to clog. It can also lower the quality of the part if the filament is pouring out like honey instead of the more desireable toothpaste viscosity.

Oh and definitely it's absorbed too much water. It was the first thing I assumed when I saw your photos and before I read the text.

What ages? What grades? Nothing motivates like a project. Have them ask their parents what would be useful to print. A soap dish maybe? Something practical. The numbers on the mail box. A coaster for drinks. Something to hold something that needs holding - some kind of fastener - is the most common. Knobs. Ask them what broke in their house and is small (preferably under 2 inches in all dimensions so it doesn't take as long to print). Then for software, I hear tinkercad is really good for beginners. They can design on their ipad or iphone or mac or pc and then open it on the mac and convert it to STL on your communal mac. Before they do that step though I recommend you review the designs for overhangs. ONLY AFTER they have made their first design they need to read this article and make changes/redesigns: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing Let me tell you they will be so proud of the thing they make even it's a simple wedge or cylinder. It will be a cylinder that they designed! To their exacting specifications. It will be like no other cylinder in the world! (well similar but slightly different for sure). ?

To restore PVA: Some people dry in oven at I think 100C but that is terrifying because PVA gets a bit soft at 65C so I would dry it on a heated bed set to 60C with a towel over it and leave it overnight. I have not had to do this yet. Maybe 60C isn't hot enough to dry it in merely 12 hours. Maybe 100C won't destroy your entire spool. But 60C should be safe. You can put sample amounts on the bed and leave for 3 minutes under a towel to see what happens. Starting around 65C it gets very bendable and when it cools back to 60C it's in a new shape.

@fbrc8-erin?

The upper photo shows layer height of 0.4 and the lower one shows layer height of 0.1. Layer height is the most commonly adjusted parameter in slicing software. It's okay to adjust it. 0.4 will give you a faster, lower quality print. 0.1 will give you a slower, higher quality print. You can choose values in between. My most common slicing height is 0.2mm.

By the way, there should be no gap here. maybe it's because of the other 3 screws (a 4 screw leveling system is bad - 3 screws is better).

By the way it sounds like you are describing a head flood. It can be caused by your magnets not gripping well - if so pry them out with a screw driver about 1/2mm. Or it can be caused by your prints not sticking to the bed. Here is the fix for the second cause:

Did you remove the filament from the top? Sometimes I still have the filament going into the core and forget you can't pull them out until you remove the filament first. The whole head comes apart if necessary: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004541446-Printhead-Ultimaker-3-Ultimaker-3-Extended-

Cura normally won't print walls/paths thinner than 0.8mm but you have a few choices. You can check "print thin walls". This will cause variable extrusion rates in this area which will be a slightly worse quality. You can also lower the line width to < half the thickness of this area that you want it to print. Or you can switch to a smaller nozzle. Or you can enlarge the part.

Just set wall width to zero. And infill to 100%. I'm pretty sure that's what you want. Try it and look at layer view.

what kind of printer do you have?