gr5

It would have been best to work on those wires with the power off. Obviously now. So you probably only damaged one or two components. The schematic is here - about half way down this pdf: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)/Main Board V2.1.1.pdf The most likely broken component is U6 which is an A4403GEUTR-T made by allegro microsystems. I'd make sure pin 1 was at 24V and pin12 was not at 5V and if so I'd probably just replace that. It's possible something else was damaged but I suspect only that part got destroyed. So if you are good with surface mount you could try replacing it. Or you could get a new PCB either from Ultimaker or you could get a knock off from china. The knock offs are a bit different - with removable stepper drivers.

Look at your model in xray view. If you see any red then that's the problem. Also since it says your model isn't water tight then definitely run it through the free mesh repair service. You have to create an account but it's free: https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

I wouldn't go lower than 3 seconds. It takes about that long just to get down to 60C and PLA is like putty/clay/plasticine at that temperature. at 50C PLA is finally hard like pastic.

Was the ticking from the power supply? I'm guessing it was turning power on and off because there is a short somewhere. So it would power off. Then it would try again. And again. Each time the short was still there. I guess you can't tell now. I'd start by disconnecting the cable at the print head as there may be a short inside there somewhere. https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004541446-Printhead-Ultimaker-3-Ultimaker-3-Extended-

That bothers me as well as it is a huge inefficiency and cost increase in the DC power supply. But it's probably a safety thing as people take these printers apart all the time to fix them. The cabling to the bed gets a lot of stress and this has been a common failure point (where cable meets bed heater). Imagine >100V AC on the metal parts of the print bed. Also Ultimaker sells in countries with 220V and 110V so there would have to be a solution that handled that.

@smartavionics - isn't there some plugin that fixes normals? I'm wondering if the normals are backwards on this cad file. @sanguinaryangel - see if you can send your model through the free netfabb repair service. I don't know if it will take obj files. Also if you can convert your obj to stl and try that instead as a test. I'm not saying STL files are better - I'm saying that maybe there is a support bug related to normals (normals tell cura which side of a wall is inside and which is outside and I've seen support features get very confused about angles maybe because of this).

I would definitely take apart the feeder and clean it out and look to see if something is grinding away. The white feeder on the UM2+ is quite easy to take apart (half way apart anyway if you keep going after getting the cover off the stepper motor for it will fall down). It could be the particles came from the filament spool and/or metal dust that fell into/onto the filament spool.

There are many infill patterns. Some of them connect to walls and some don't. I'm guessing you want to uncheck "connect infill lines" or try a different pattern.

If that's the bottom layer then the problem is your nozzle is too far from the bed. You need to squish the bottom layer more.

52.5V DC coming out of the power cable when it's not plugged into the printer? If so then I'd say the computer is fried inside the power brick and you should get another power brick. Or unplug it from the wall for a good 12 hours (it takes an amazingly long time for that LED to go dark) or into the LED goes out such that the computer in the brick reboots.

I don't know but it's probably either one of two reasons: 1) It's measuring capacitance. The farther away the two plates are (the metal plate below the glass and the plate in the bottom of the print head) the lower the capacitance which gets harder to measure as it gets lower. In other words it's less sensitive the farther away it is. 2) More likely though it's the software sees that the amount of capacitance is lower than expected and assumes something went wrong (filament stuck on the tip of the nozzle or you left the old print on the bed and it's hitting that. More importantly I recommend you don't do autolevel. Manual leveling is more precise and you only have to do it once or twice and it stays perfect for months. Or even better, level on the fly when the print starts out by looking at the shape of the skirt or brim. Do this for a few prints and then forget about it as it won't change.

I don't think it's your PC. Wow that looks strange. Is this PLA? I have seen thousands of pictures of 3d printing problems and this one is unique for me (little holes like this). I don't see the layer below. Do you? Make sure you have 4 to 8 top layers. What is your layer height?

It's possible to get best of both. There's a feature called "initial horizontal expansion". I set that to roughly negative half the nozzle width (-0.25 to be more precise for my 0.4mm nozzle). This compensates for the elephants foot. Regarding your original question, every printer brand is different but they all need some kind of leveling. This leveling procedure is where you set how hard it extrudes. You want it to extrude pretty hard on that bottom layer because if you don't the part won't stick well to the bed (regardless if it's blue tape, glass, etc). For Ultimaker's the typical way is to use the calibration card which has a known thickness and then they have you level it such that... Let me back up. When the nozzle is barely touching the glass that is supposed to nominally be Z=0. Ultimaker's procedure levels such that the nozzle hits the glass when Z=0.5 or so. It depends on the firmware and such and there are different versions and different printers (UM2, UM3, S5) but in general it's levelled a bit tight-to-the-glass on purpose to get that first layer well squished which avoids having your part come off the bed half way through a print.

That's severe underextrusion. You are getting maybe 10% extrusion. Try higher temperatures and/or lower speeds. What does the manufacturer recommend for nozzle temp? If that were PLA I would say it looks like you are about 50C too cold (printing at 150C) or about 10X too fast. Is it possible that the diameter of the filament is wrong? If you inserted 1.75mm filament instead of 2.85mm that would explain the problem. Or if you received 3mm filament (instead of 2.85) and it reaches 3.1mm in places it would get all jammed up in the bowden.

Almost certainly it's machine settings. There should NEVER be negative values for X or Y on an Ultimaker printer.

Well the M82 and M83 conflict. You need to pick one or the other. I think the M501 destroys pretty much every setting before it, does it not? Shouldn't it be an M500? I really don't know this printer. (FT5). Maybe there is an FT5 forum? If you can get the FT5 to work from some other gcode then you could paste the begining of that gcode into the cura start.gcode section. It doesn't look like it's responding to the G28 (home) command. The vibration is where it's moving too far beyond the end of travel.

So if you really really want to print 1.75mm filament in an UM3 it's possible. I don't recommend it but it's possible to get good results. 3dsolex will sell you a 1.75 version of the core. I'll sell you this also in my store: thegr5store.com. I have one customer who got it to work and work quite well. He got it to work on both sides. The right core is tricky because that one goes up and down. Anyway contact me (even if you aren't in USA - I only sell to people in USA) for more details. The solution is similar to above but the steel part inside the aluminum heat sink has a 2mm hole for the filament instead of 3.2mm hole. The idea of putting bowden inside the "trumpet" as in the photo above is the same except to get it to work well we ran the inner bowden all the way from the core to the feeder. The problem with this is that it's now harder to get the core in and out (have to remove the bowden each time). But it works and it works well.

Ah. So probably the print head is too far from the build plate and not squishing the filament hard enough onto the build plate to get it to stick well. And looking again at the photo above that seems to be the case.

It's possible to resume a failed print but it requires manually editing the gcode file. And if it's a dual color or a dual filament print it gets quite complicated. I have examples of how to do this somewhere on this forum.

Well the mintemp is probably normal. The printer won't extrude when the head is cold so it's probably cold. If you go into the menu where you control the head and bed temperatures what temperatures does it display? Is it readying room temperature? (around 20C). So far the only problem I see is that the printer head only moves one direction during homing. It could be the limit switch is not reachable anymore. Some things to try: Try pushing the head around and see if it hits all 4 XY homing switches. Listen for the clicks. Try putting the head in the middle, put your finger on the home switch, start homing and push the switch twice quickly (and get your hand out of there). If things are working it should stop moving towards that homing switch. Take a video of the homing event so I can see what you mean by "moves only in one direction" (is it X? is it Y? Does it make the horrible sound? Does it make any unusualy sounds? Does it move too slow? Is it erratic (belt slipping)? A video will tell me a lot).

Cover the top. Just use an open box that is bigger in the back of the printer such that the bowden and cables have a gap back there. For example if you have a UM2 or UM3 then those boxes that contain photocopy paper or printer paper are perfect. No tape needed. No cutting. Just flip it over and put it on top of the printer. There will be a large gap at the back of the printer where the bowden and cables come in but that will be enough to get the air temp from 20C to 35C and that's enough to make a huge improvement in layer adhesion and that's enough to get the bed up to 110C. In addition of course cover the front of the printer with saran wrap or 2 gallon zip locks or similar. ABS gets soft at about 99C and having the bed at 110C versus 100C makes a huge difference. Having the bottom layer of ABS at 105C to 110C makes it act like putty instead of plastic and when those warping forces come a long the bottom few layers will stretch just enough to spread those powerful forces onto more area and spread out the load so the part stays stuck to the glass. Also it helps if all outer corners of the part are rounded so the forces are spread out more. Sharp corners mean almost all the force is on one tiny spot on the corner of the part. Brim helps a lot also. Use at least 10 passes of brim.

The holy grail (upside down and stem yet to be printed and attached)?

Oh and if you are using an ultimaker printer than don't touch those numbers, lol. Or you will likely knock the first 2 cars off the print bed.

You need to tell Cura the size of your print head. Because when it goes to print the second car the print head might hit the first car. So there are some numbers to adjust - go to "manage printers" then "machine settings" then adjust the printhead settings. I think they specify how much room to leave around the nozzle (distance from nozzle to the 4 sides of the print head). Also it won't print anything taller than the gantry height (or that part has to be last if only one part is taller than the gantry height).

Okay I guess it's slightly more flexible than average PLA but not as much as TPLA so I had it slightly backwards. I added ApolloX to my materials web page interactive graph. Here is a snap shot zoomed in on the pla/abs region. Green circles are pla. Red are abs or asa - click on picture to zoom: My web page is here: http://gr5.org/mat/