gr5

I'm thinking that on some of these heavily used printers something is making it feed worse than normal - maybe someone printed with CF (carbon fill) filament and the feeder knurled sleeve isn't as sharp as it is supposed to be - but printing a bit slower - .15mm layers - like you decided to try will make the feeder have to work not as hard and should help a lot.

Well the head itself can move to the left until it hits the switch and clicks and no farther. And it can move all the way to the right until it stops moving. You can push the head around yourself. mentally mark where the extruder is at those extremes - is it over the glass at both extremes or does it go beyond the edge? If it doesn't go beyond the edge of the glass then no worries - just let it print a bit to the right and put the dimensions of the printer back to the way they were. The glass is bigger than the "print area" as you will see. On the um2go the glass is a bit smaller than the print area on the left side and you can print past the left edge of the glass if things aren't calibrated correctly.

I checked the web page and UM says UM2 dimensions are 223X223. That's not necessarily the official default in cura though. Is your extruder physically more to the right than the original feeder was? The feeder is normally slightly to the left - maybe 1cm? I guess I'm wondering how much to the right your print was located.

wow wow wow - this is fantastic.

Feel free to edit your own posts and fix typos - I do all the time.

Or maybe just squish the bottom layer a little more (turn the 3 knobs 1/4 turn CCW). Well the new roll probably needs a hotter glass plate. if you don't cover your printer I recommend it and heat bed to 110C (105C minimum anyway). Some formulations of ABS soften at 95C and some at 99C and some at 101C so you need to be above the softening temp or it will warp off the glass.

UPDATE More info on the dirty SD card reader issue. My problem isn't 100% gone. Before and after cleaning moved the problem from happening about once every 3 minutes to once spurious movement every hour. But I still get it. I even swapped the small board in the front of my printer with my um2go and the problem seems to have not moved. I'm still getting the problem rarely on the same printer (with the "new" board). It might be that both boards do it now but rarely? It's too rare for me to debug as it may happen every hour (where it gets a spurious X or Y or E movement) but the prints only fail about once per month. But it seems like the problem stayed with my printer and did not move with the small board. So I fixed the dirty contacts but still have some intermittent problem.

That's a different issue than this topic. Could you maybe post again so people will ready your post afresh? Create a new topic please? I'm thinking something is wrong in your machine settings. Can you get into the machine settings and check the build plate size? If your printer is a typical um2 with dimensions roughly 21cm by 21cm but you tell cura it's 30cm wide it will try printing in the "center" which would be at position 15cm which is right of center. Please don't reply to me here but start a new topic.

Are you printing larger parts than before? Did you re-level? Changing the z=0 (leveling) by just a tiny bit makes a huge difference in how well parts stick. more details here: You should be using either extra thin pva glue or "abs juice" (google it) and never print ABS on a clean glass if you want it to stick well. More info about making your parts stick here in my long but very detailed and informative video:

What kind of printer? Oh - I can see "ultimaker" in the background. Um3 or Um2? I'd raise the speeds from "40" to 30 (yes raise). Make sure all the printing speeds are at 30. This might not be the issue so report back. Also lower the temp (this is probably the more serious issue) to 200C. Check all the nozzle temperatures. Some filaments make these bumps more than others and they usually go away if you print cooler. HOWEVER I see you have ironing on. The only part of this print that ironing helps is the bottom of that doorway where the floor is flat. I recommend you turn ironing off because it might be causing these bumps. Ironing is great for very flat things. Like a large coin. I've never tried ironing so I don't know but it seems like exactly the thing that might cause these bumps. Oh - and 70C is too hot for the bed - it won't cause what we see here but it can cause "wall cave in" as shown here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallcavein

print temp is supposed to be 250. That's the default. That's what I print CPE at. I mean there are like 3 or 4 printing temperatures but that's the main one. Infill by default is printed much faster than walls so that is probably why infill looks like crap. I would probably set all my printing speeds to around 30mm/sec. Defaults are 60/45/35 (infill/outer wall/ inner wall). I like 30/30/30. Basically either print hotter, or slower, or both. I have only done a few dozen CPE prints (although several recently) so I just left the printing temps to the defaults and slowed it down a bit. Have you ever printed glowfill or carbon fill with this printer?

There's a nozzle width parameter? It's not visible for the UM3 printer. It must be cr10 thing. You only changed *one* of the line widths to 0.25. There's 3 or 4 of them. You have to change them all.

By the way, the bed usually takes longer than the nozzle so that is kind of desired behavior somewhat as if you leave the filament too hot for too long it can bake into a caramelized gunk. PLA can usually take it but other materials can't.

PLA. PLA is a superior material. The only thing worse about it is that it can't handle temperatures above 50C and a car can get that hot if left in the sun with windows rolled up so don't use it for a cell phone holder for a car! If you need higher temp there are many other choices better than ABS. Basically never use ABS. colorrfabb ngen is my favorite but there are many other's almost as good. For example CPE. There are two graphs on this web page I created. The bottom graph - materials can handle higher temps as you move right but also they get harder to print: http://gr5.org/mat/

So if the feeder seems weak you might not be closing it properly. Please send a photo of your feeder in the closed position and maybe some other photos with it open.

Sorry - this new forum isn't good about notifications. I get too many that are duplicates and miss some among the many notifications. Oh my - did you destroy it? The only way to know if it works is to power it up and check the temp and if that is good to heat it up and make sure the temp rises. I think I suggested in my post above that the problem is more likely in the feeder - did you check to see if it could pull several pounds/kg of force? You can test this even with power off, just hold the gear with one hand and pull hard on the filament with the other. If the feeder is fine and it looks like it's feeding without the nozzle that kind of leaves the nozzle, right? It might be clogged. Dust can get on the filament and take a trip through the bowden with the filament and end up clogging the nozzle tip. This is not very common but it does happen. You can fix that with something called a cold pull. Read up on that and watch a video of a cold pull in action.

Ah. Smart. True. Very true. Actually I use it for my um2go - I use the "insert material" one. For removing I just pull it out. My um2go still has the black feeder but I'm planning to switch to Meduza some day. No rush. Once I switch my use of the "change wizard" will drop to zero.

Oh and if you are going to be using sketchup to make 3d models (not the best choice but hey - it works) then you need to read this: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

You have a lot of choices here. First of all, you modeled infinitely thin walls in sketchup so that's what you got. Infinitely thin walls. But I know that's not what you wanted (or maybe I'm wrong - maybe you modeled 0.25mm thick walls in which case read the next paragraph). One choice is to model the walls in sketchup - make them 0.25mm thick. This is a reasonable option. Then make sure you check the box in cura for ultra thin walls and you probably want to set your line width less than 0.25 - maybe 0.22 so cura will be happy and your quality will probably be better. However if your part will always be like this - no holes through the walls - no top or bottom - then much better to model it as a cube (by the way, everyone should have a cube.stl handy - you can add it to cura and stretch it to any height/width/length with the scale button). Then when slicing tell cura 0% infill, walls at 0.25mm and disable top and bottom infill. This will give you a much thinner result and it will happen on only one pass. You can even set line width down to 0.2mm and the quality should be fine if you want really thin walls.

If you want to convert a speed which is in mm/sec to steps/sec (I'm guessing this is what you want) then multiply by steps/mm. So for example: If steps/mm is 100 and speed is 50mm/sec then speed is also 5000 steps/sec. I'm not sure where you need steps/sec though. I'm not sure if that's what you need.

It is most certainly something you can buy at least online (say mcmaster.com). Not sure about local hardware store. Either shape (flat or flanged) will work good enough.

Also what kind of printer do you have? You can go with smaller nozzles. I sell 0.25mm and 0.15 and even 0.1mm nozzles for many different printer types including all the Ultimaker printers.

I deleted your other post - they seemed identical. As you discovered, yes you can also decrease the nozzle size. A 0.4 nozzle will typically print just as well (actually maybe better) at 0.35mm line width and will even print decently down to about 0.3mm. Cura just doesn't do single wall width - it only prints loops. So it's always going to go over the same spot twice - sorry about that. There is one trick you can do though - you can model your part for example as a solid cylinder and tell cura to print 0% infill. You can also disable top and/or bottom infill. This trick works with slightly more complicated shapes than a cylinder but at some point you have to go back and model the wall thickness in cad (for example if you want holes in your part other than at the top and/or bottom.

I don't think so. It would be better if it was a wide printer, not a tall printer. Better to make things that people need (say a vent replacement for a particular brand of car or knob for a particular brand of stove - my sister in law needed 4 new ones at $70 each - wow - I made ones just as good for almost no money) and sell them on ebay. Being a 3d printing hub is also possible (or used to be possible) at 3dhubs.com. Lately though it's a lot more work to become a hub so I'm not sure that's a good route. Another good route to make money is to design plastic and metal jewelry (think of ear rings shaped like dolphins) and sell it on shapeways which will do the actual printing and shipping to customers but you still need a 3d printer to test out your designs (well - it helps).

Yes those look good. And I see you selected 3mm coupler. Good. Are you able to buy 3mm filament (actually 2.85mm filament) in Egypt? Did you check that yet?