gr5

Please don't. If it can't send any gcode then just don't bother. The current "ssh" solution is great as it is. And thanks for the "get there direct using ultimaker account" trick! Actually I'd love a screen to move head, extruder, set temp but which then shows the gcodes it used below and a text edit box to send gcodes and in that text edit box you can hit up arrow to get most recent gcode sent. Right now I can't set the core temp through gcode unless I first heat from the panel. That enables something (not sure what) and then gcodes to set temp start working.

First of all - "slice view" is your friend. Always look at your model in slice view. You can scroll through the layers and see which nozzle is being used when and it helps you realize problems and what slicer settings do. If you click on the gear in settings (any of the gears) you can search for "tower" and enable those to be visible. Then you can set the position of the tower by changing x and y value in mm. Actually this is a case where "normal" view helps you position the tower. The back right corner is a bad location for this because the glass is usually lower there. Best to put it near the rear screw. The tower is optional and some people don't use it but I personally prefer it. You can just uncheck the tower option if you want. The tower basically wipes the nozzle when you switch nozzles.

Most people here print with PLA. But there are a few who print ngen. I've only printed a few dozen parts with ngen. You really need to post a photo. nGen is a higher temp material so it is a little harder to print than PLA. It's not as hard as ABS but the harder the material, the longer it takes to get good at it. Without a photo I'm not sure but as far as "5 or 6 hours" that's normal for a part the size of my fist. 3d printer is slow. Regarding "fragile and brittle" that sounds completely wrong with nGen. nGen is pretty strong normally. Like legos. Unless you consider legos fragile. Unless it is breaking along layer lines. If it is breaking along layer lines then the problem is that you aren't melting the layer below enough for a good bond. PLA doesn't have this problem which is one of 100 reasons PLA is so great. So if you have layer adhesion issues, raise the temp 10C and reduce the fan to lowest speed. If you have a um3 that would be around 3%. If you have a um2 that would be around 30%. Please feedback to us more information along with a photo and what kind of printer you have.

Sorry we get hundreds of spam some days. Some days a thousand. It can take a while for a first time poster to get approved but now that you are approved things should work better. google is your friend. If you enter "site:" followed by a website it will restrict google results to that website for example: site:ultimaker.com bad surface quality

I think what you call a "surround" cura calls a skirt. If I'm wrong then I need more info. Look at the skirt options in the basic settings.

Can you explain please: is the 192C the goal temp or the reported temp? If it's the reported temp then the resistance is a bit high. The resistance should be around 110 ohms at room temp. 192C would imply about 173 ohms. These parts don't fail but the connection to the pt100 fails easily. Most likely the problem is where the wiring connects to the print bed. Check that the two smaller wires are screwed in tight and if so maybe take the bed completely apart (it's not hard - start with removing the 3 leveling screws) and resolder the connections of the terminal block to the circuit board inside the print bed. Also check the wiring as shown in your photo. PT100 resistance/temperature conversion table

>I'm curious to hear for what serious applications you are using the manual control. I find it speeds up experiments. For example if I wanted to experiment with different PID values it is so much easier to do this through gcodes. Measure flatness of glass and gantry. Measure x,y position of bed clips. Measure max possible Z printing height: if my part ends up being 1mm too tall and fails in that last mm it would be nice to know before I start the print). Calibrate extruder (is 100mm really 100mm?) And hundreds of other experiments are easier when you can type in a gcode.

@yuriy206 your account is now enabled. It had never been enabled until today.

I'm not sure which issue you care about. I'm not sure what you are talking about. But I see 3 unrelated things: 1) poor quality on some overhangs - severe overhangs particularly bad but even 45 degree overhangs like blue model upper lip should be better. This is usually fixed for me by printing slower - I'd dial it down from 30mm/sec to 20mm/sec just in this area to see what happens. 2) very fine stringy hairs (these are very easy to remove and I've heard several theories of what cause this whipsy things but I'm not sure) 3) Some vibrating patterns in green image (this is made better by printing cooler usually) #1 seems like the worst problem. Could it be that your models have many more triangles/faces than your older models? Cura can only plan 16 line segments at a time so when you have 16 line segments fitting into 2mm of travel it mess things up and you get weird shaky movements. Also it seems you are changing filaments. A lot of the newer "pla" formulations do better at cooler temperatures.

And what do you mean by "I cut it in half diagonally"? Using CAD software? Using cura software? Using a knife? Using a table saw?

That looks pretty bad. I'm not sure what that is but my first guess is that your Z axis is moving at half the distance it is supposed to move. I only see one picture above, perhaps more would help. Anyway my first 2 questions: 1) What brand and model printer is this? 2) Was the part half as tall as expected? If so then this is your primary problem and the ugliness is an artifact of the this issue (steps/mm are wrong).

The first time you ever use the machine or after a factory reset it forces you to do the bed calibration. Once done it won't bug you about that the next time you turn it on. I recommend not using the calibration paper and instead having the nozzle touch the glass - just use your eye. and/or push the bed up and down a little when doing the front corners. For future prints if the printer has no material loaded you can do the advanced menu and then INSERT MATERIAL menu item. If the material is already loaded then you can just go straight to PRINT.

contact your reseller. You can get replacement blocks for free. This is a common problem with the white blocks. They will send you black blocks which are stronger. It's a royal pain to switch the blocks but worth it. Alternatively you could try this solution here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cracked-slide-block-cap

Build volume changes drastically depending on settings. For example you lose a lot in X if you have both nozzles in use. There's good advice here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/44677-maximum-build-volume-ultimaker-2-plus-ultimaker-3

The bottom layer is tricky. If you don't squish it very well then it doesn't stick well. If you squish it too much then it sticks out. In my opinion the best fix is to read this guid in particular the section about "use chamfers to produce cleaner bottom edge". http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing

Update - someone got this to work! http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printing-Over-SD-Card-Wi-Fi-Hack/

If the circle is perfectly symmetrical with no bumps sticking out and no holes sticking it it usually won't change directino from CW to CCW. However it shouldn't matter. If you are getting bumps on CW versus CCW that means you have some play aka backlash. I would concentrate on fixing the backlash. It can be caused by many things and all are easy to fix. If you have rubber belts they may be too loose (causing play). If you have too much friction that also causes play (belts stretch). Or gears might not be meshing nicely. Or you might literally have a loose nozzle. Try pushing against the cold nozzle to see if it moves without moving the servos. If you can feel any movement (even if you can't see it) then you need to fix that.

It would be nice to see what it looked like just *before* parts fell over. If it broke part way up then maybe the part was underextruded at the break area. Or maybe it had a lot of overhang which makes the nozzle more likely to hit the part (over hanging edges stick up a bit - more fan helps reduce this). or maybe the part wasn't sticking well to the glass. This last issue - not sticking to the glass - is by far the easiest to fix but I'd like to know which of those 3 issues (or another) is the problem first.

The G92 solution works great by the way. It allows you to offset the entire print by any amount you want.

This is an interesting model! Does the model have that pattern in it? All those triangular holes? This is a difficult pattern to print in the air. I suggest you change the cad model a bit such that you print only the horizontal lines from left to right on a few layers (in other words make those "beams" thicker towards the center of the part by .5mm). This will provide a support structure to print the final patter on top of.

During the calibration step it's not obvious but there is a part where you need to spin the knob to move the bed up and down.

Is it 1.75mm filament? We use Ultimakers which use 3mm filament which just doesn't do this unless you buy very flexible (think rubber bands) filament such as ninja flex. Well the "happens mostly on bottom layer" is a clue! But um. I don't know what it means. Both curas default to .3mm bottom layer but I assume you didn't mess with that. Are you sure you didn't maybe level the nozzle a bit too close to the bed recently? I like to level it very very close and squish that filament in. But your feeder maybe can't handle that. Basically I really don't know 1.75mm filament and your feeder well. I think the only thing that will cause that is too much pressure. Which means printing too cold (I think newer cura defaults to a lower temperature!) or too fast (.3mm bottom layer is quite "fast"! Make sure bottom layer thickness and speeds are the same for both cura's). I mean in the older cura the bottom layer speed was much slower to compensate for a thicker layer. The new cura also but probably different values. There's a huge difference between bottom layer print speed of 20mm versus 30mm per second. Especially when printing a thick layer and when nozzle is too close to bed.

Simply lower the total. That's your budget. Don't touch the other values unless you happen to know their actual wattage. Try 140W instead of 160W.

My guess is that you are probably printing faster or colder than you used to in the old cura. Is that a flexible filament or not? Does the problem happen during priming? Because the priming step is definitely different in cura 2.X.

Please show a photo. I'm not sure if this is a printer issue, cura issue, or cad issue.