gr5

That's the code for ultimaker2 (and 2go and 2extended), yes. The source used by "everyone" - the erikZalm source code used is the primary version used on many non-ultimaker machines. https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/

Go to "expert" settings and in the "fix horrible" section uncheck everything. That should fix it. If not, right click on every gray face/side you see (in sketchup) and reverse them such that the white side is facing outward.

I don't know. You could compare to a working printer but I'm sure you don't want to take one apart. What country are you in? It's not in your profile settings. I would contact support.ultimaker.com. It seems to me it could still be the vertical rods, the linear bearings on those rods, or the Z nut, the Z screw, or the Z stepper. It would be nice to swap those things with a working machine. The Z stepper and the Z screw are one piece I believe. So you remove the 4 screws on the bottom and unplug the wire and the z stepper/screw assembly can go right out the bottom. Easiest part to change. I'd be tempted to swap Z nuts at the same time. neotko has an interesting point. Those stepper drivers can get quite hot. But if that was your issue I would expect the problem to go away the first 10 minutes of printing because after a print is over the axes are all powered down and the driver would start to cool down.

Another possibility is there may be dust in the nozzle - see if PLA still works. If not you probably have a nozzle clog. There are many techniques for cleaning the nozzle - "atomic pull" or "cold pull" is the most popular. A second method involves using a hypodermic or acupuncture needle going up into the nozzle. A third method involves burning everything out: Consider unscrewing it (while at 180C - yes that is hot enough for ABS to unscrew) and then burn out everything in there with a gas flame. Be careful not to melt the brass but there is a large margin (100C?) between burning all the ABS and PLA and the temperature where brass melts. Just be careful to not go any hotter than "burn temp'. After burning clean everything out with a toothpick while still hot. Let it cool a bit and try sending some PLA through it to make sure it isn't clogged anymore. You can buy new nozzles also - they cost between $5 and $15 on ebay and other places.

Try this test (WITH PLA!) to make sure your nozzle is getting hot enough. It's for the UM2 but you can do the same test for the UMO:

2.85mm = good 3.00mm = bad

A photo of your part would really help but I think you describe underextrusion - so the problem starts many layers into the print? Not the bottom layer? I'm going to assume the problem starts not at the bottom layer. I'm going to assume you have underextrusion but without a photo we may be both wasting our time. There are many things that can cause severe underextrusion. One is excessive retraction on a feeder that is too tight (I think they are all too tight on all shipped UM2's for a long time now). How many retractions do you have? (a photo of your part would help). Another thing is filament of too great diameter. Measure diameter of your filament. It should be around 2.85mm. 3.0mm is too much. Another thing is printing too cold or too fast or layers too thick. What is your layer height, print speed and printing temperature? That's enough to get started but there are about 30 other things that cause underextrusion. Oh hell here's two more: tangles in filament, or dust getting onto the filament.

The fans need around 25% to 30% to get started. Once moving you can lower to around 20%. Maybe even lower. There is a feature that if you go from *off* to 20% it over powers the fans at 100% for a half second or so then lowers to 20%. This works great and jumpstarts them but if the first layer is 5% and the second layer is 10% it only jumps 0-5% and not 5-10% so the fans don't come on until around 30%. by the way the % represents the duty cycle. So if the fan is at 50% that means it is at full power/voltage for half the time and off the other half the time. The cycle is 5 to 10 times per second. Same method for setting power to the heater in the nozzle.

Daid is very nice in person but can sound harsh at times in his quickly written comments. Just to help you understand how spiralize works - and how slicers work: First realize that STL is a list of 3D triangles with no relationship between the triangles (STL doesn't say which touch each other). The slicer intersects a plane (current slice) with every triangle. Some intersect the plane as a line (the rest don't intersect at all). Now you have a bunch of random line segments in no particular order. Next the slicer tries to figure out which line segments are associated with each other although the endpoints are often slightly different due to floating point rounding. You should end up with a bunch of looped chains of line segments. You then print *inside* those loops (or outside if it's a hole inside a larger loop). Anyway there's lots more details (special cases for bridging, multiple passes, infill, overhangs, line segments too short, and more). Spiralize cheats - it just says - hey this layer has e.g. 300 line segments so instead of moving Z up .1mm at the end we will move it .1/300 for every line segment. And it mostly works. The next slice above is supposed to start as close as possible to the previous point where you end a slice. That code seems to be broken or more likely maybe your vase just doesn't have enough triangles to find one close enough. I guess ideally you want all your triangles to have a vertical edge and hope the slicer uses the vertical edge instead of the sloping edge when picking layer change spots. Daid says "spiralize is a hack" and it is but intersecting a plane with triangles is easy. How do you intersect a spiral with a set of triangles? There's no one correct solution. how do you pick the center of the spiral? What if the STL has many posts? Where is the center one? Also everyone wants to use multiple threads to slice even faster but to do that you can't have different layers knowing much about the previous layer otherwise they would have to wait for the previous layer to slice. So it would be nice if you could start each layer at any old random spot. Ideally spiralize should first find a continuous path as vertical as possible up the side of the vase. I'm 90% sure it doesn't do that - that would be a nice feature for non spiralize prints also!

I agree. Same bug. I posted something in the other thread you might want to try out.

This is a recent (ish) problem with Cura. The position where each layer starts changes a bit on each layer. I would guess this was introduced roughly in December. Cura worked fantastically well even 2 years ago. So I would try one of these older versions. In fact I recommend 13.01 (jan 2013). also try 13.04 which was a completely different slicing engine - and much slower! But it worked fine: http://software.ultimaker.com/old/ You can install multiple copies of Cura (one windows - don't think it works on Mac) and they are treated like different programs.

Also make sure your 3rd fan on the print head is working. It should be running when the nozzle heater is on (if not always on).

My work flow is that when I have something to print I preheat the bed to 60C and the nozzle to 180C then I bring the SD card over to the slicing computer, do my slicing and save on the SD card. When I get back to the printer it is warmed up (sometimes for 30 minutes - that's why I do 180C - at 220C it would convert PLA into glue). Here is the important part: At this point I reach around behind the printer, find the PLA entering the feeder and slide it up. The feeder isn't powered up and the filament moves easily. some filament then comes out of the nozzle and it is at this point "primed". Then I select PRINT and choose what I want to print. There are versions of the firmware that retract the filament different amounts at the end of the print job. I lost track of what does what and just do this manual prime everytime before I hit PRINT. After you hit PRINT it's too late as the feeder is powered up and you can't move the filament by hand anymore.

The nozzle you can hold with a wrench and put it in a gas flame and burn all that PLA out. But don't melt the brass. You have several 100C margin between burn temp and brass-melt temp but still - be careful pulling it out of the flame once it starts burning. Then you can do some cold pulls where you take a length of PLA and stick it into the nozzle while it is hot (but not hot enough to burn) and see if the filament comes out the hole. If not, then let it cool for about 60 seconds - maybe much longer? 100 seconds? or shorter? Until it is almost solid and pull hard to get all the gunk out. It shouldn't come out too easily and should be in the shape of the nozzle. There should be gunk and black stuff on the filament tip. Cut that off and throw away and repeat until the nozzle is clean. This is called "Cold pull" although "warm pull" might be a better name. 90-120C is about the right temp for cold pull.

Put that part in hot water (tea/coffee temperature) for 30 seconds and then all that gray pla should come out with a toothpick or similar tool. Please update your settings to indicate what country you are in and if you have the UMO, UMO w/hbk or the most recent model, the UMO+.

Maybe include a photo of your model in normal view, layer view, and stop the printer once it starts making "floss" and take a picture of that also. Right now your "floss" is hiding the important things underneath.

Check your model in cura "layer view" mode. It may be that there are some layers that print nothing. That's a problem. Perhaps your model is bad, or is not solid or maybe it has walls that are too thin to print.

Choose options then click "BUILD" then when done click "DOWNLOAD". It should download a hex file ".hex". Something like "MarlinUltimaker-UMO-250000.hex". Then in ie, or firefox or chrome you right click it and do "show in folder" or similar. Next you connect your computer to your printer through USB and run Cura and do Machine "install custom firmware..." and choose the hex file. It's pretty safe, the bootloader in the arduino is protected so even if you load bad firmware you can always load proper firmware later.

Steppers can handle tons of heat but the stepper drivers can't. Do you have the white board? It shouldn't need fan but 28C is a bit hot. I would tilt the UM by 45 degrees or even print on it's side (it prints fine even upside down). And put a desk fan blowing on the white circuit board to see if that helps.

Similar connector (probably made by same company) - and it looks like you push down on orange part and insert wire. It's called a "spring" pcb terminal block.

Okay reading around - I'm not sure - but I think you push down on those orange parts with a screwdriver against a spring. Then slide in the wire and release. edit: original poster confirmed this works (see his post below).

Ultimaker changed that connector very recently so I (and most here) don't know the answer. Can you get a part number from that part and google it?

If it's not the temperature then it's almost surely the Z. Sometimes it doesn't move far enough and you get an extra fat layer that sticks out, then it moves a little too far on another layer and it underextrudes slightly and so on. I would try cleaning it with WD40 and then re-greasing it. Also lubricate the two vertical rods with light oil (not wd40 - that's for cleaning only). Any light mineral oil is fine. 3-in-1 oil. Sewing machine oil. Even baby oil is probably fine.

That one you link to is it - that's the one - nice find - I'll add it to my notes.

Could be lots of things but typically it's because the part fell over. I recommend not leaving alone for more than 20 minutes until you have more successes. You are lucky the part didn't drag around with the head and then you can get a massive ball of molten plastic. Did you do bed at 60C? That's recommended for good stickiness. Also a very thin layer of that glue stick. Wipe the glue stick on the glass, then use a wet tissue and spread it around extra thin. Also use the Brim option. Also make sure the bottom layer is well squished onto the glass - I can't tell from this photo but you want the very first traces to be wider than tall. If not just rotate all 3 leveling screws by 1/4 turn CCW. I often do this at the start of a print (fine tune leveling).