gr5

Not a complete disaster. Normally (if you don't insulate or cover the sides) the bed only gets to about 110C to 120C maximum I'm told.

Also did you try this marlin builder? Look at the Configuration.h file it creates and compare it to your file: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

Teocreo - your english is very confusing and hard to understand. Plese write the post in Italian and check carefully for spelling and then use translate.google.com to convert to english. As long as your grammar and spelling is perfect, google does okay. I don't understand the firmware questions but I think I understand that your temperature is very unstable. How many watts is your nozzle heater? Where did you get the heater? If you don't know how many watts, then how many ohms? And you are using 19V supply?

As peggy is hinting - anything in red in xray view has extra inner walls that you need to remove. Sketchup is horrible with this problem. Sometimes playing with the 4 "fix horrible" checkboxes will let you fix the letters without having to fix the model in cad. Also if letters are too thin (<.8mm) you may have to cheat and tell Cura that your nozzle is actually .35 (and shell width a multiple of nozzle e.g. .7mm). Or smaller than .35mm.

When you weren't looking maybe your cat put the printer in the dishwasher. Cat's do all kinds of things while we sleep.

On the page describing the UM2 On the page with the "buy" button:

The pattern you are seeing is usually either Z screw or nozzle temp. I don't think it's possible to be anything else. I guess maybe on a delta.... but you said you had a Prusa. So you say you watched the temperature carefully during one of those cycles (looks like maybe 10 layers)? If it didn't change by more than 2C then it must be the Z screw. I don't remember how the prusa works - does the base move up and down? Or the nozzle? How many lead screws? Maybe the nut is loose? Try moving the bed up and down by 30mm repeatedly (maybe using pronterface) and feel the bed - see if the movement is smooth or wobbly. Look for horizontal movement *and* vertical speed up/slow down changes. What is the vertical spacing on your bands? What is the vertical spacing on the threads on your Z screw(s)?

I doubt it's steps per mm. You can calibrate it by marking the filament with a permanent marker, then moving the filament slowly forward (though a hot nozzle I guess) for 100mm. Then measuring how far the filament moved exactly. Adjust steps/mm to be = current value * ( 100mm / actual-distance-moved) Then power cycle your machine to make sure the value was saved and repeat the test.

For PLA usually 3 seconds is enough. 10 seconds should be enough even on a very hot day. Anyway please post a picture. What you call "looking kind of melted" we probably call something totally different. Like "pillowing" or overextruded or underextruded or "too much overhang" or who knows what. All I know is every time I guess what people mean, once they post a picture everyone is like "oh - wow - that's not what I thought you meant".

I recommend, in Cura, trying .31, .31, .32, .33 etc until it stops working and then go back. In other words try to get a little bit wider trace if possible. Also consider setting flow to 170% to compensate (.4/.3)^2=1.7. Or at least to 140%. Of course if it will slice fine with nozzle at .35 then you can set to flow (.4/.35)^2=131%

lol! When I print ABS I usually print at 110C bed temp. With some kind of PVA glue on the glass.

I moved this thread as you asked. It also shows up in the old spot but when you click it, then it jumps to here. Does the bed heat up even when "goal temperature" is 0C? Does your heated bed use a relay? Or a FET? Do you use the mosfet on the ramps board to control the heater directly?

It could be either bad Z screw but if you didn't change the Z screw it is much more likely a temperature issue. Watch the temperature carefully while it prints. See if the temperature varies. It should be consistent within 1C. The pattern you show is what I would expect with 10C to 15C swings in temperature.

Yes. It *could* be implemented. The UMO would have to have an interface to allow you to set 3 things: filament diameter retraction distance retraction amount The changes in gcode for ultigcode are that retraction (and un-retraction) is done with G10,G11 commands instead of moving extruder axis. The other change is that extruder position in regular gcode is mm of filament at the feeder and in ultigcode it is in cubic mm. You need to know the filament diameter to convert between these two units. The code to handle ultigcode is already in a version of Marlin but I don't know if it will (or has already) made it's way into the "standard" ErikZalm version of Marlin. Although Erik works for Ultimaker now (started a few months ago I think).

I used the gas flame from a cook stove. Leave it in long enough to turn the plastic black but not much longer. As you say, don't melt the brass. There is a large temperature difference between burning plastic and melting brass so it's not too difficult. Just don't leave it in there and fall asleep. I moved my nozzle into the flame for no more than 10 seconds at a time. Then moved it out and touched some filament to the outside to gauge the temperature.

STL isn't so good with dual nozzle setup. Currently you have to have one STL file for each color/material. And there are 5 color (5 filament) printers out there.

Unless he ships his computer to Daid

Having said all that they *are* working to improve this. Like I said they just hired more people in support and also they are improving their ticketing system.

For one thing - they are overworked last few days as they changed their ticketing system and/or ordering system and it's a temporary disaster. For another thing even though they just hired a few more people they have been a few weeks behind. So, um, 2 weeks is typical. And YES, the phone works MUCH better. But you probably have to speak english or dutch. Their english is excellent.

This topic moved to this thread: umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8742-how-can-i-test-the-heated-bed-on-um2/

In post #5 above in Coreys photo there is a solder pad under each of the screw connectors - on the "bottom" side of the board in this photo. You could just solder the wire directly to that pad. If you aren't good with soldering, I'm sure you have a neighbor with the right experience and equipment.

Yes. There's another thread about this. But the quick answer is that they switched their "ordering" software a few days ago so even though your order is just fine on the old system you can't see it anymore on the new system. Plus cust support is overwhelmed with people asking what happened to their suddenly missing order. If you just wait your tickets will eventually be replied to but you might have to wait a few weeks. You might get your printer first.

I'm not sure the apm 2.6 is a good choice. Calibrating it has been a ton of work. I'm starting over and buildign a jig to hold the copter but let it spin on one axis at a time so I can calibrate just that axis carefully.

Most c or c++ programs when "killed" do a lot of heap cleanup first. It's silly but that's how we usually write the programs. So all those destructors or free() commands have to get run. When there are a lot of objects in the heap (millions) it can take a long time to delete them all. Especially for linked lists or other linked structures - following all those links and running a delete or free on each one. This can take a long time (e.g. maybe 30 seconds) and also slow the computer down while this happens. There's really no need to do this other then so that you can check for memory leaks when debugging the code. If you do a instant kill on the process (like from task manager process tab versus application tab which only sends a kill message) it skips that step and just frees up the memory allocated to the process on a higher level - not going through all the linked lists. I'm thinking the difference between daid and bot computers for this "kill process" step is that bot had a larger amount of memory tied up in the heap because of a larger model or thinner slice and maybe he was going a bit to page faults on the disk on the cleanup step.

I'm told all the other 3d printer companies have horrible support but this isn't much of a defense. @sod - If you had asked before you ordered (I know - how are you supposed to know to do that) I would have told you to order your printer through the USA based makershed which has a more sophisticated ordering system that knows what is in stock and what is not. @sod - message this guy to get a more accurate delivery estimate - explain that you aren't in a rush so much as that you need to know the date because you are moving soon - so click the link below and then "send me a message" button: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/423-sandervg/ Make sure to include your order number. It should be a large number that probably starts with the letter E.