gr5

See post #10: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=17300 Try: more fan more top/bottom layers MORE FAN try filament cooler (200C?) and more fan! Check your side fans. Make sure they "blow" and not "suck"

Try doing only a home, then an M84 gcode. After that are the steppers on? Can you move the print head? Or are the servos still on? Slice with some other slicer that works for you - then look at the gcodes towards the end.

There should be a little pack of green grease that came with your UM2. With the blue tape and screwdriver. If you don't already have lots and lots of grease on the z-screw then add it! If you touch the Z screw the grease should get all over your fingers. A "pea" sized drop is good, then move the bed up and down 3 times to spread it around.

By the way, I looked it up and both alcohol or acetone works to remove flux. Even the best flux can cause corrosive damage to your circuit board over many years so it is best to clean it off although most electronics don't as most electronics aren't designed to last more than 5 years.

Solder has mixed in with it a gunky brown material called "flux". Flux helps the solder flow but once you are done soldering it is no longer needed. Some people wash the flux off with a powerful solvent such as freon (alcohol works I think). Flux looks VERY SIMILAR to heat damage. But it is not damage. If you touch it then it should feel sticky. It should clean off with powerful solvents (not water). To post a picture you can upload anywhere on the internet such as imgur.com but if you insist on uploading here click "gallery" in the top left corner of this page, then click upload. Once your picture is uploaded, start a new post and click "my media" next to the smiley face icon. New users (under 3 posts? 5 posts?) can't upload to the gallery.

Ah!! Smart! This is the first I read about that but have been wondering. Daid, is there any way to set the home position with a gcode? I mean in pronterface could I 1) move z to -.03 and then 2) send a gcode to set this has "home"? I'm hoping I can at least do #2 but I suspect I can't do either. Instead I think I would have to re-run the homing procedure or turn the 3 screws a bit.

Nice. I assume those wrinkles are in the STL? And that tiny hole is because the wrinkles got too close? I like the look of this material.

Damn you Weiin for keeping secrets!!! :evil: You win. I can't do it any longer. Weiin will probably brag (in private) that he can get just as good quality on some other printer at 40mm/sec and I won't be able to say anything because I didn't try other speeds. It's hard to win your contest Weiin when you keep secrets and only post blurry pictures. I did those white robots on the UM1. I haven't done much retraction on the UM2 but 4.5mm doesn't seem enough so I recommend 5.5mm retraction (which Illuminarti had good luck with on the UM2). Here are the UM original settings: I printed on blue tape with no heated bed. 1) The trick to get antennas is to print 2 robots so they have time to cool (what a waste! without the antennas I could have printed only one robot, 2x faster and at 210C although when done you get 2 robots). 2) To minimize stringing (I had none. No cleanup!) I set temp to 190C (and enabled retraction and set retraction expert minimums to 0mm) 3) To get good quality at such a low temp I did 20mm/sec (I normally print at 100mm/sec) 4) I did 3 shells (1.2mm shell) to keep infill or other stuff from making the outer edge ugly. 5) .1mm layer height I did this back on October 5 so I'm not sure what version of Cura was out then, probably 13.06.4. I still have all the settings in the gcode file so here it is converted to a profile: [profile] layer_height = 0.1 wall_thickness = 1.2 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = .4 fill_density = 20 nozzle_size = 0.4 print_speed = 20 print_temperature = 0 print_temperature2 = 0 print_temperature3 = 0 print_temperature4 = 0 print_bed_temperature = 0 support = None platform_adhesion = None support_dual_extrusion = False filament_diameter = 2.85 filament_diameter2 = 0 filament_diameter3 = 0 filament_diameter4 = 0 filament_flow = 100 retraction_speed = 50 retraction_amount = 4.5 retraction_dual_amount = 16.5 bottom_thickness = .3 object_sink = 0 overlap_dual = 0.2 travel_speed = 150 bottom_layer_speed = 30 infill_speed = 0.0 cool_min_layer_time = 0 fan_enabled = True skirt_line_count = 2 skirt_gap = 15 fan_layer = 1 fan_speed = 100 fan_speed_max = 100 cool_min_feedrate = 0 cool_head_lift = False solid_top = True solid_bottom = True fill_overlap = 15 support_rate = 75 brim_line_count = 6 raft_margin = 5 raft_line_spacing = 1.0 raft_base_thickness = 0.3 raft_base_linewidth = 0.7 raft_interface_thickness = 0.2 raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2 fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = False fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False plugin_config = (lp1 (dp2 S'params' p3 (dp4 S'pauseLevel' p5 V.4 p6 sS'parkY' p7 V190 p8 sS'parkX' p9 V190 p10 sS'retractAmount' p11 V5 ssS'filename' p12 S'pauseAtZ.py' p13 sa. object_center_x = -1 object_center_y = -1 [alterations] start.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F90 E6 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G4 P2000 ; pause 2 seconds G1 F{travel_speed} M117 Printing... end.gcode = ;End GCode M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning start2.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm T1 G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount} T0 G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} M117 Printing... end2.gcode = ;End GCode M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off M104 T1 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning support_start.gcode = support_end.gcode = cool_start.gcode = cool_end.gcode = replace.csv = nextobject.gcode = ;Move to next object on the platform. clear_z is the minimal z height we need to make sure we do not hit any objects. G92 E0 G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G90 ;absolute positioning G1 Z{clear_z} F{max_z_speed} G92 E0 G1 X{object_center_x} Y{object_center_y} F{travel_speed} G1 F200 E6 G92 E0 switchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders. G92 E0 G1 E-36 F5000 G92 E0 T{extruder} G1 X{new_x} Y{new_y} Z{new_z} F{travel_speed} G1 E36 F5000 G92 E0

Don't email ultimaker. Open a support ticket at support.ultimaker.com Be aware that they have already gone home for the day as it is noon here in Boston but 6pm in The Netherlands. They will likely send you a free one promptly as of course they are in stock and it will probably take about 3 or 4 days once they ship it. While you are waiting for it consider assembling the Z stage and/or the print head as those can be done "out of order" and take a while. Also the ulticontroller (although that doesn't take long at all!). The Z stage took a very long time for me compared to everything else. I had to do a hours of filing.

Any light oil should work fine but preferably without a lot of additives (WD40 has additives).

If it's supposed to be right handed he can just mirror it in Cura or in cad.

Oh! Yes, cold solder joint. Get some reading glasses or a magnifying glass and get some very bright light. google "cold solder joint" and select "images". This will show you many examples of what one looks like. Each one you see you can fix by touching it to a soldering iron for a few seconds. Don't leave the iron on there for more than 20 seconds or so.

Were you careful to flash with UM1 firmware and not UM2 firmware? I think you have to select "machine" first.

Also can you get it to do it more often if you push down on the bed?

Did you look at the z screw? Is it rotating when this happens? I have 10 theories that might cause this. I'm not excited about any of them. Lets try to eliminate some things. For example the Z stepper might be too weak to hold the bed up. If so you should be able to see it rotate on every "pop". Or the linear bearings might be defective. Or the vertical friction might be extreme and the Z axis might move in a mixture of small and large steps. Or there could be a cura bug that is moving the Z on purpose or many other things. Or the Z nut might be loose and rotating. Try to get some video of the z axis to see if it is rotating. Try to get some video of one of those 2 vertical rods that shows the movement when the "pop" happens. for the rotation of the z axis it might be better to video from below the bed but don't let your phone or hands get crushed! Also it would be good to show the extruder motor in a video while the popping occurs. I suspect the popping is caused by 2 different things: 1) Extruder motor 2) Something to do with the Z axis And the videos you posted only showed #1 possibly. #1 could possibly continue after printing is stopped but only 2 or 3 times.

Just to explain further, this is difficult in sketchup (unless there is some plugin I don't know about). You would have to probably duplicate the threads and shrink the copy and then put the copy inside the larger threads where the smaller threads would be the inner wall. Then you would have to give your threads a top and bottom. For me this would probably take hours. Much easier to give the threads a top and a bottom. Also I recommend "spiralize" if you want it hollow and I recommend lowering the part below the bed a bit (in cura quality settings) and also make the shell thickness between .4 and .6mm only (any thicker and spiralize doesn't work so well).

Nancy already answered your question. Your walls MUST HAVE THICKNESS. Do you understand? For example if you wanted a hollow vertical cylinder/tube you would need to have TWO cylinders - one inside the other to represent the inner and outer walls. You would also need a "ring" at the top and bottom to represent the top and bottom of the solid area. So as this applies to your bolt. Put a top and bottom onto your bolt. That will make it a solid object. If you really want it hollow then you can tell cura not to print a top and bottom (two seperate checkboxes and you can tell it to do zero infill. But the model must have a top and bottom. Or you can do it the hard way and give your walls of your bolt some thickness. Make it at least .8mm thick if you go this harder route as Cura usually won't slice walls thinner than .8mm.

I know the feeling. I always look at Cura "layer view" before printing. Carefully. I sometimes zip through every layer 5 or 6 times looking at it from a few different angles and staring at a different portion of the part.

My values are: P 22 I 1 D 114 I think these are the default values.

Bed level only affects the first layer. Sometimes the second layer. Consider simply lowering the P value by 2X. More about PID here: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%A9gulateur_PID

Should be 9 amps, not 5.0A. So that's your problem. Create a ticket asap at support.ultimaker.com and they should get on it first thing tomorrow. In the mean time you can print just fine on cold glass. Create a new "filament" that wants the heated bed to be 0C or change the existing PLA filament to want heated bed at 0C. Then either print on the blue tape cold (but first cleaned with alcohol to get the wax off the blue tape) or you can print on cold glass if the first layer of PLA is at 240C and if you put some gluestick on there first. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

double negatives are confusing. You mean the temp oscillates between 190C and 216C? Yes that could be a problem. At 190C the plastic is thick like toothpaste and tends to underextrude. UM Original? Do you have an ulticontroller? Consider re-running the Cura first-run wizard that autotunes the PID values for your nozzle. You will need to connect your computer to your printer with a USB cable to do this. Make a note of the PID values. If not displayed by cura there are 2 other ways to get them (pronterface or using ulticontroller). The PID values control how the UM sets the temperature. If P or I are too large it will oscillate. D reduces oscillation but if D is too high or P is too low it will take a long time to reach the desired temperature.

Ultimaker accidentally shipped the wrong power supplies for some UM2 machines and they just discovered it today. Please send a photo of your power "brick" that shows the amperage to Ultimaker support and they will ship you a new one immediately. In the mean time, I recommend putting some blue tape over the glass (should have been included) and print on cold glass. You can even print directly on cold glass if you use the glue stick, use hot PLA. More details on printing on glass here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/ edit: for example print first layer at 240C and use glue stick and you should be fine. You can lower the temp when it starts the second layer.

You can do a simple test to determine if the problem is the nozzle or the bed or neither. On controller do: Maintenance -> Advanced -> Then either: Heatup head or Heatup buildplate Increase the temp until it is above current temp. At that moment power will be sent to the nozzle or heat bed and if this causes the failure then you probably have a short in that system. If both by themselves are fine, try heating both at once. Maybe your power supply "brick" is wimpy (defective) and you need a new one because it can't supply the full needed power.

Try taking a video and looking at the video.