yellowshark

Methinks you should just print a simple cube and not worry about things like infill patterns. That is under extrusion and I cannot conceive that infill would cause that unless your infill print speed is 40000mm/s!!!

And what I posted above ignores the fact that you say after the problem arose you loaded old stl files and they worked properly. Very strange. Are you sure that on the old files that work the print speed, layer height, extruder temp, nozzle width, line width and filament diameter are all exactly the same as those settings used with the new files that are failing?

… oh and is the pressure mechanism that pushes the filament against the knurled wheel set correctly?

Assuming your filament diameter IS set correctly - you do not mention checking your feeder knurled wheel. Over time the teeth will get impregnated with filament and the wheel and filament will start slipping against each other producing the extreme under-extrusion you are displaying. Having said that the 3rd pic is confusing. Was that model printed soon after the previous two? With the same reel of filament? Anything else printed in between the 2nd and 3rd pic? Have you tried printing the same models with a different reel of filament - the filament could be jamming on the reel, even randomly.

Load your model and select it. At the leftmost side of the screen you will see a column of seven icons. Place your cursor over the 2nd icon down and you will see it is the "Move" tool. Click the icon and you will see three rows for the x/y/z axes. They should all be zero but your z axis probably has a value. Set it to zero and problem solved.

Lol I have been asking myself that question for the past 4 or 5 years. The good thing is it sure motivates you at an early stage to get your bed adhesion absolutely optimised😎. Never seen that "Optimise shell printing order" before, but I am only on 2.7

Oh 200 for 30-40 mm/s and 0.100 layer is too hot. I would take it down to at least 190, probably 185; but it is influenced by the filament and I have never used 1.75

It would be helpful if you posted a pic of layer 1 with the BRIM; then we can assess the state of your adhesion.

Yup there is a lot of naff stuff out there in the cloud. If you can always better to design it yourself, then you can match your build environment and make sure it all fits properly :)

I will assume there is nothing really wrong with your printer and that is has decent dimensional accuracy, i.e. a maximum tolerance of 100 microns. So firstly, your screw/bolts and the screw holes in the lid and box. These are circles; circles never print accurately; 3D printers do not prints circles they print straight lines; so a circle is made up of very many small straight lines and it is the method used to print them that causes the dimensional error. Now if you have two holes, a screw and a screw hole you might expect them to have the same error and therefore fit, but as you see this is not always the case; what hidden law of physics is acting there I have no idea. Mine are normally smaller and if I am printing a hole for a steel bolt to go through I will normally start with the diameter of the hole modelled as bolt diameter + 300 microns. But this will not always work first time so yes it is somewhat suck and see but with some experience you can get it spot on pretty quickly. The box/lid alignment really should not be a problem; at the worst a quick file on a print defect in the wrong place should do the job. If the designer has a) designed with wall widths of 400 microns and b) left a100-200 micron (gap between the two mating surfaces) and c) you are doing nothing silly with your nozzle width and wall width, then it should fit. In my experience which is predominantly PLA based, PLA is fine

Lol and if none of that works for you try reducing the flow for 1st layer down to 70%. Personally I take two layers to get back to 100% but switching straight to 100% for layer 2 may be OK

I suspect you need to change the Machine Setting for your printer. Take menu option Machine/machine settings and select your printer. You will see machine centre 0,0 on the left side. Change that setting and hopefully all will be well.

Yes often a tricky one; you have an inherent problem caused by the required change in pressure which does not happen instantaneously, it takes time to settle down. That is why 99% of the time I print with all speeds set to the same value. With regards to your last comment, I have often wondered why Cura does not allow you to specify the speed change to happen during the last part of the infill. I am only on 2.7 and so not aware if there have been subsequent changes that would help. All I can think of is to print the wall inner to outer and if need be add an extra wall. I normally go outer to inner because that is meant to improve dimensional accuracy which is normally important for me. Also if you are printing something, maybe a bust, where there is a definite rear which will not be seen, then use the “user specified” option of the Z Seam Alignment to start the layer on the rear section.

Lol it was not ninjaflex and it was not a UM but I gave up too; but do not let me put you off ? There are posts in the forum where people have had success with Bowden printers

Seems to me it works better than you thought; to change a group of 11 layers you do not need 11 statements; just one to halve it at the start and one to double it at the end. Lol does not get much easier surely.

The secret with small things in PLA is to go as cool as you can, lol I bet you can drop 5 if not 10/15 degrees and go as slow as you can. You may have to play with both parameters to find the sweet spot. And filament make/colour may play a part too although I have never really investigated that for this question - although for general use I know my best 2 or 3 filaments

I use nGen for hotter; so far it has survived the inside of my car during the summer, very easy to print; the materials above may have a higher temp of course but I do not know.

OK if you have not done so already, you should check the measurements in Cura to ensure they exactly replicate the measurements in Tinkercad. On the X/Y axes; afraid I have to disagree with @Smithy, who does have some good stuff above, but if you are doing engineering stuff and dimensional accuracy is vital then your measurements are poor. You should be able to better 100 microns easily and quite frankly 50 microns too. I can better 20 microns but have never been able to do so consistently, so in our T&Cs we guarantee 50 microns but prefer 100 microns as that allows us to work faster and cheaper. You need to research and I mean hours and hours of testing; which filament(s) gives you the best results. We go to one of two filaments if dimensional accuracy is tantamount. Play, in a disciplined manner, with your Cura settings to establish what produces the sweet spot and then stick to that. I had always had the strong view that slower was better. But a month back I printed something for myself, used 60mm/s and was really surprised at how accurate it was. So I now have to find a few days of free time, test and test whilst re-evaluating my views. Then of course you have e-steps. I am guessing you have pretty new printer with not that many hours of use, so mechanical wear and tear should not be an issue. I am sure I read somewhere that part of Ultimaker's QA process is checking the e-steps; which infers that for any given printer the manufacturing process, when everything is pulled together, can result in performance differences. I may not be 100% correct on that but I will add that when I first got my printer I spent a lot of time focused on dimensional accuracy and everything was good. Six months ago, following a period of 18 months(?) when I did not need to worry about it, we got a job where accuracy was vital. On the first run the dims were appalling. That was when I taught myself how to recalibrate e-steps and it is all sweet again following that work. The z-axis is a bit different. Additionally you have your nozzle to bed distance set during your bed levelling. If you like to have your filament really squashed down to get great adhesion well your first layer will not physically be 0.300.Your Z-axis measurement is your most accurate and it is shorter not longer, quite possibly resulting from your z-offset. You may find that if you increase your gap marginally you may improve on that 60 micron variance. But you are pretty reasonable so be careful otherwise you will make it worse

Hi @szernex it would be helpful if you could give us your Cura settings, i.e. the exact settings that produced the model on the left. Use the Windows10 Snipping tool?

I wanted to take some pics to produce a 3D model :) Err no, inexperienced in such things I put Sam in a plastic garden bag to carry him over to the grave and dropped it in. Some days later I was told I needed to take him out of the bag for the decaying process. Trust me, a tough job.

Funnily(?) enough some years back I had to dig up my dead cat. An unpleasant experience preceded by several vodkas.

Lol modelling in clay etc. Use the camera then the software and let technology do it for you. OK the software you want is Autodesk 123D Catch. Autodesk is one of the top 3 CAD software companies in the World and they have a range of free software for 3D modelling on their website. Catch is just brilliant, so easy too use and really good results. Yes you need more than one photo! Maybe a dozen will be OK, maybe 30 or so. Now I have just been on their website and see the software is no longer available. Now it may have been absorbed into Autodesk 123D, which I think used to be Autodesk 123D Design. So could be worth downloading that and checking? Catch may be available on some other download sites? Ask some forums on the net how to get it? Or if you have some cloud storage I can drop the software file there for you.

Sorry silly me I thought you were referring to the retraction minimal travel; who knows why when you said retraction distance!!

Your Retraction Distance looks awfully long at 9mm. I say that because mine is 0.9mm and I do not suffer from travel lines. My retraction settings are With PLA I found 5.5mm for retraction distance to be fine but I changed it to 6.5mm for nGen material. I always print with Combing Off

Hi any of the Ultimaker guys got an answer to this? @SandervGI was planning on upgrading from 2.7 to have a look at moulds