yellowshark

Lol that is a shame, I thought I would spot the answer if there was a difference. I have no idea what your print speed is nor you layer height (they would be useful to know), but it did strike me that with a 0.8mm nozzle then 210 may be cool and if it were then increasing your flow would just make it worse not better. Also whwite is the worst ccolour to print with so it would be good to try another colour. BUT it would be good to know your print and layer height settings; if the drive system is 100% - I assume the filament is no sticking on the reel? - then the under-extrusion finger points at the temp.

Lol you see we are all different. I print PLA with a bed temp of 65 but I go lower with my Nylon not higher, about 50. To both of you, just to stress this but it has been mentioned. You are both printing very small pieces. Do you have your minimum layer time set to say 10 seconds? I know I said above possibly not to use fan with nylon but your stuff is so small maybe you have no choice. As @gr5 says the normal solution will be to print multiple copies "all at once", an odd number and the middle one will be the best. You must get your last layer cool before printing the next one and that is not always easy on stuff this small

.... were you using the Frosty white too before?

Before you upgraded was it printing OK? Were you using 0.8 nozzle, 210deg, same print speed, same layer height as you are now?

Lol yes you probably never want to drive in Paris with a big truck! I had been printing for about 2 years before trying nylon and it certainly came as a shock after all those nice and easy PLA prints! I always struggled to some degree although I believe the some of the newer nylons such as Bridge are much easier.

Yes as @kmanstudios says nylon is very hygroscopic; this is one of the key features of getting a decent print. It is a bit like bed-levelling, you think it is level but it is not. If it is really wet you will see/hear steam and hissing coming from the nozzle, but... (it has been a couple of years since I printed it) but I think I nearly always put it in the oven to dry it first. This is not recommend (by me) unless you know what your are doing with temperatures. I once put two different nylons in the oven and wrecked one because it had a lower melting temp. And I always stored my nylon, with desiccant, in what we call the "airing cupboard" i.e. housing the hot water tank. Again as @kmanstudios says all nylons are different but two other key aspects are print slow and print hot (i.e. hotter than PLA). I used to print my Taulman nylon at 20mm/s to 30mm/s and up to 245 plus depending on layer thickness. BUT you need to do some simple testing to determine the correct settings for you and your nylon; otherwise you are going to waste a heap of time and material! Oh and unless you at printing a very small piece you should try turning your fans off; this is a Taulman recommendation but whether that is best for all nylons I know not.

Thanks guys most helpful . I think I am looking at an abridged user manual for the free version and need to download the full user manual, which is what I think the link from @dxp took me too. The key word is indeed SNAP, in DSM's parlance "Snap to a co-planar face". The user manual is a bit naff because there is no mention of the receiving face turning yellow when the faces are "snapped"; this is very very brief because you only have to go a few microns too far whilst moving and it switches back to the original colour - but I soon sussed it. Once again many thanks for your help especially as you are both non DSM guys

Hi, sorry I screwed up inserting the picture and cancelled the new posting but everytime I try to create it again, the original cancelled posting just keeps coming back. Hi, I have just downloaded DS (the free version) for a play and see what it is like but hope I can get a bit of help from you DS guys as I am stuck. I have made three separate designs, being a Box and two “tool” holders to go inside the box. I copied the two “tool” holder designs and pasted them into the Box design. I did see something about “insert file” but could not find it. I have two problems although they are the same thing. I want to move the orange “tool” holder to be adjacent to the green “tool” holder so they are touching, i.e. no gap between them but I cannot work out how to select the surface on the green “tool” holder and tell DS to move the orange “tool” holder to that. The same problem: I can tell that the green “tool” holder is not sitting on the floor of the Box because it is sitting slightly above the walls of the box – the height of the walls inside the Box are exactly the same as the height of the “tool “holder and so the tops should be flush with each other. Any help most gratefully received.

OK, quite tricky to diagnose because your camera (‘phone?) has focussed on the print head, not the part, so all the foreground is out of focus. At first I thought the front right was showing under extrusion but that does not make sense to me. I see that the left hand side seems pretty OK but the right-hand side looks faulty so I wonder if it is something to so with cooling (i.e. lack of). The brim seems to be OK on both sides but out of focus so difficult to be sure. It would be helpful if you could do it again but rotate the part 180 degrees so that the circular part is on the right. Also can you please give us your main settings – on the right, under Material and Profile, select Custom which will display all the settings. The following would help… Printing temp.(s) Print speed(s) Layer height Bed temp Wall thickness and wall line count Nozzle width The settings under Cooling Can you then please also take some photos from directly above, after layer 1 or two and then later on. Also I would not overlook bed levelling but let us leave that just for now. You may have levelled the bed correctly as far as the process is concerned but as a novice that does not mean the end result is right . I am quite capable of getting it wrong! But I know how to get it right.

Nope; are you trying to clean the plate or scour it? If cleaning I would be inclined to use something softer than glass such as walnut beads, which we use for cleaning carburettor bodies.

Yes unfortunately you will have to change your hole diameters to compensate. 3D FDM printers do not draw circles they draw straight lines, obviously lots of small lines. The line cuts across the apex of the circumference and you end up with a slightly smaller diameter; which if dimensional accuracy is important for a part is a pain. Some trial and error will get you to where you want to be. Printing slow and cool all help to reach dimensional accuracy too. A long time since I have needed to do this but I think I used to increase the diameter between 0.2 to 0.4mm. It could be that it varies on size of diameter but I never needed to investigate that.

OK now

You too

Hi it does not seem to work. It is giving me an error message saying I need to enter something in the Ultimaker 3 group but I do not have an Ultimaker 3 ! Using Microsoft Edge browser

I confess to only quickly skimming recent posts but I do wonder if we are trying to disappear up our own tail. Cura must already have all the code and data it needs because it displays the data we want on to the computer monitor. All (lol) it has to do is to route that "display" somewhere else, be that a document or a database record(s)

Interesting. Which printer did you use?

As @kmanstudios says if we can see your settings we can help more. One setting that significantly affects what you see is the Layer Height which gives you the resolution of the print. 0.3 is normally the thickest/lowest resolution and will show the lines more. If you drop to 0.2 the lines will show less and if you drop to 0.15 or 0.1, even more so. Personally I never drop below 0.1 unless I have a "horizontal" surface that is curved in which case I may drop to 0.05, but I will do a test first to see if it is worth it. The downside to using higher resolution is that the print will take longer. If a print at 0.3 takes 2 hours then if you drop to 0.15 you will be printing twice as many layers and assuming the print speed is the same then the print will take twice as long, i.e. 4 hours. If you take that to 0.05 then it will be more that 8 hours; so you do have to consider this normally. Also if the speed is kept the same and you increase the resolution of the print then you will be using less filament per layer and so will probably want to reduce the temp. of your extruder to compensate

Hi @SandervG I noticed this recently. If one hits the Notification bell icon and then "View all notifications", one gets a list of notifications. If one selects a notification, then after reading it one has two options. Firstly hit the bell icon then select "View all notifications" then select another notification to read; yes it is a bit repetitive isn't it. The 2nd option is much easier, just hit the back tab key to get the notification list again, much quicker. Indeed if you are not on page 1 of the list it is even quicker as the back key takes one back to the page you were on, whereas the other method takes you back to page 1 so you have more work to do to page through to the page you were on, assuming you remember what the page no. was. BUT using the quick method the status of the notification is not updated even though the software knew you were reading it when it was requested and the status should have been updated. The result is one gest a whole list of notifications that one has read but the list is showing them as being unread. Can that be fixed?

Hi @SandervG bump

Lol how long is a piece of string! It depends on two major factors, firstly how much money do you want to make in a year and secondly what is your market place (i.e. what is the market tolerance on pricing and how much CAN you sell). I can only give our pricing model but you can adapt it. We do not try to compete in the world of 3D hubs and similar, far too cheap for us and also we do design and modelling, i.e. we never just get a 3D model and print it. Printing cost: Decide how much money you want your printer to make in a year. A How many hours will you use your printer for in a year. B Leave time for testing and maintenance A/B gives you your hourly print rate Work out your filament cost per metre Cura tells you how much material you will use in metres, so you can calculate your material cost per print For simplicity we use the same rate for all PLA and PLA/PHA even though the cost to us will vary depending on supplier and or quantity. We have a different material cost for Nylon. Finally you need to recover overheads. Get an annual total for those and then divide that by B above and that will give you your hourly overhead recovery rate. This may include things like electricity, depreciation of equipment etc. And finally finally we also add a setup cost of 15 mins. i.e. loading the filament, heating up the bed and extruder, cooling the printer down so we can remove the part from the bed. So the price you charge for an individual print is Model print time from Cura * hourly print rate + calculated material cost + Model print time from Cura * hourly overhead recovery + setup time * hourly print rate Plus postage and packaging Design cost: We use a standard hourly rate for Solidworks designers in the UK. We charge a higher rate for the first 4 hours as there tends to be a lot of talking and thinking early on. Also do not forget sometimes you will need to give some thought as to how best to orientate your model for printing and you may even want to do a prototype for yourself to decide which way (and indeed settings) work best. We nearly always do this thinking during design, which is why I include it here. Anyway, you may want to include this in your pricing.

OK if you want that level of accuracy I think you need to move to the custom settings. Firstly you are printing too fast; set all your print speeds to 30mm/s (but not your travel speed or acceleration speeds). Set your wall thickness to 0.8mm (i.e. 2*nozzle size) Personally I would not print the brim via extruder 2; but that is presumably personal preference and probably does ton have any effect on your result Personally I would always keep my line widths the same and the same size as the nozzle, i.e. line widths of 0.4mm, unless I was trying to overcome some sort of problem. You will benefit from printing cool; you now have 100 micron layers at 30mm/s so you can probably take the temp down to 190 - if that looks great then try 185,but if you start to see under extrusion go back up. @gr5 graciously suggested you print 3 copies - that is not negotiable for what you want - you have to:) It looks like you might be getting some crow's feet but we can deal with that once we see the result of these changes

I been thinking about this, personally I would prefer the creation of a .pdf file rather than a direct print from Cura. This has the added advantage that you could print a single page or whatever when required. Personally I would probably never print it but just view the document. My need is to be able to refer back to a production, or test, run and see what settings I used so that I can duplicate the run a second or more times. I can see the advantage of a database that provides analysis capability but for me it is about historical recording for future referencing.

Ok, this will vary from printer to printer but the concept is the same. 1. The heater on my printer is located in the centre of the print bed 2. The temp. sensor senses the temp. of the bed - not the glass plate siting on top of the bed. So. 3. When your temp. reads say 65 the glass plate will not be 65, probably a minimum of 10-15 degrees cooler 4. When your glass plate reaches 65 it is only the centre that is 65, not the perimeter areas of the glass plate. Again they will probably be a minimum of 10-15 degrees cooler. Of course if you are printing a small part in the centre of the build plate this is not of concern. The only way to manage this properly is to get an IR thermometer or whatever they are and measure the temps. until satisfactory. You probably need another 10 mins for the glass plate to reach temp. and probably another 10--15 mins for the entire plate to reach temp. if you are printing something with a v. large surface area.

If you get us the .prt file we can check the dims in the model and what, if anything, in the export settings might cause the problem, although off-hand I cannot think of anything. Of course if you can get hold of him your SW guy can check the dims. for you.