yellowshark

Hi @Smithy I tried to send you a message but got a 502 Bad Gateway error. I was interested in your post above. I went to the Ultimaker site but could not find the info you referred to. Could you be a bit more specific so I could find it. I looked under resources/troubleshooting/hardware but could not find it. Should I be looking somewhere else?

Don't you just put a G92 command into the start g-gode? I am on Cura 2.7 so maybe it changed in 3.n

When I looked at the pic I thought under extrusion but looking at your settings well no. I am looking at your settings and interpreting them as 0.1mm layer height, print speed 30mm/s, extruder temp. 215. You do not say , so I assume material is PLA; in which case you are way too hot. With those settings I would probably print at 185, certainly no hotter than 190. Now of course different printers work differently but unless you have a partial blockage in your feed system ( which you need to fix!) 215 is ridiculously hot for PLA with your settings. Also I read your settings as defining 3 top layers. If that is correct and you are using a small % infill, say anything below 60%, then you need far more with .100 layer height. I would suggest a minimum of 12 but that does really depend on your infill setting. So Sort out your temp and top layers Set your flow back to 100% Set all your wall widths back to your nozzle settings FWIW I use 15% for infill overlap; no harm in trying more if you want to but depending on your number of walls, going substantially higher could eventually impact you surface quality. And post back. How high is the model?

Not sure why you think there is a remote service is involved. You have Cura on your laptop and you connect it to your printer - no idea how but USB I presume, unless of course you have to faff around with an SD card I have Cura on My Laptop, Repetier on my laptop and connect my laptop to the printer with a usb. End of

Well I cannot consider myself an expert on this particular point as I have never had the problem. But I have always considered that the level on the X axis is controlled by the two front screws - for the entire bed - and that that rear screw sets the level on the Y axis. Of course if you have a warped bed then I suspect you are stuffed with a 3 point levelling design.

Hi @phil_O_matic, well I am sure we have all tried different things over the years. What has been working really well for me for some time now is... 1. Squish the 1st layer down well, i.e. reduce the distance between the nozzle tip and the print bed 2. keep the 1st layer extruder temp the same as the normal print temp. 3. You are going to get over extrusion now - set the 1st layer flow to 70%; I then move the flow back to 100% over the next two layers. Now none of this is done via gcode. I use Repetier Host to print my models and the GUI allows you to modify flow and temps , speed etc almost instantaneously. It takes some seconds but my guess is that maybe it has to flush the buffer before the changes take effect; only a guess I have no idea. I set the flow to 70% before starting the print. Oh and I print 1st layer at 20mm/s

Hi this may not be the best answer for you, I do not know what bond tech is, but this is how I do it. Load Repetier Host software (free), onto a laptop. Attach your laptop to your printer by USB. You will need to do a bit of printer setup in Repetier but is should not be difficult and most of the settings will be in your printer definition in you slicer. Load the STL file, on your laptop, into Repetier and use the Repetier GUI to move the material a measured amount. Once fixed think about using the wonderful Repetier to control your printer on an ongoing basis

Hi I am presuming that with a new printer there is no need. But after several years I did recalibrate. I noticed that dimensional accuracy on x/y axes had deteriorated and yes, as a mechanical machine gets older things wear so not surprising. I do not have a UM but I guess the process is the same. You will find the e-step parameters in the firmware and need to change those. It is a bit suck and see until you get there. Print a straight line, say 50mm, and measure it. This will give you a % error. Change the e-steps and reprint. Repeat until it is spot on and then repeat along the other axis. That is one way of doing it but lol my memory just clicked in and I did it a different way. Instead of printing I just moved the print head 50mm, using my Repetier Host print control software, and measured the distance by marking the nozzle position on a sheet of paper, before and after the print head move. Now this is faster but not easy to get accurate - just the width of the pencil line --> edit marking the position is enough to make it wrong and where you mark the paper against the nozzle, which is >.4mm,can be different on the two markings. But take it carefully and it should be good. And then print a line to get verification.

Hi @Brulti yup you are right and I am stupid. I do not print multiple models that often and thinking back, when I have printed multiples the models have been short in height and so have not clashed with the axles. I was answering based on my experience rather than stopping and thinking about it, my apologies!!!

Hi @Brulti, well yes if you have an oven in the next room then yes ,fair do's? I have a separate garden workshop and when it is peeing with rain walking back to the house is not an attractive option! I do not think height is important, on model change the extruder will be travelling across the bed 0.3mm high and will hit any model if that is where the path takes it. - actually not true, it is the widest piece of the model that is important - but normally the total height of the model is irrelevant. The point is you can control the pathway. I am not sure where Cura is on this, I have not tried and of the 3.n versions and there has been postings on the forum for precisely this point. But... if you load a model and then duplicate it a number of times then Cura seems to pay no regard to this (hence the postings!) BUT if you LOAD the model individually 12 times you can position each one so that the pathway is intelligent, lol based on your intelligence, which is why the Cura developers seem not to want to give you the control. Cura prints the last loaded model 1st and the previous model 2nd... and the 1st loaded model last. By thinking about the pathway from the currently printed model to the next model you get the job done. I will admit I have not printed more than 6 models like this and no doubt the more you have the more difficult it gets,but it does work because I done it.

Sorry I may not agree. If by "one by one" you mean put one model on the print bed and print it ten times then then that will take a lot longer; yup15min per model is the figure I use. If you mean put all the ten models on the bed and use the Cura function "Print Sequence:One at a time" lol then I do agree.

Yup I second the moisturiser. I use Johnsons baby oil, a lot cheaper than getting caught with the lady's designer moisturiser ?

Well I have nearly always printed "off the roll" as I buy most of my filament loose to avoid entanglement. Now if I print Dutch Orange I do not use the rear holder and instead leave the reel on the floor but unwind a length and at the same time loosen the wind of the unwound length. This provides about 45 mins printing before getting near any danger of entanglement and so not absolutely great because it does require a visit to the printer every 45 mins or so, but does the job ? Lol I certainly would not try to change your mind.

Lol well we are all different ? Of late I have been printing my 1st layer at 70% flow. This has nothing to do with adhesion, which for me is fine, but it gives me a much better quality finish, i.e. homogenous and flat, rather than "liney". Of course it will be impacted by nozzle to bed distance for 1st layer, which for me controls the adhesion but I started to get poor consistency in lay down which in the end I convinced my brain was over extrusion (subsequent layers were perfect) and the reduction in 1st layer flow fixed it. The flow control was done using Repetier Host not Cura but I am guessing they are the same thing.

With PLA when I swapped from a 0.4 to 0.8 nozzle on the same modeI, I did not change settings and it came out fine. It was a new Colorfabb colour for me and I had not done any testing, I just used some settings from another Colorfabb print. So although the 1st print with 0.4 looked Ok maybe I was a bit hot rather than optimum and so the change to 0.8 was OK. I am not sure I would go rushing to add 10 deg for a 0.6. Best thing to do is to print a test cube and change the temp during the print or print multiple cubes at different temps; personally I would go 5 deg difference.

and do not forget; a sock is for life

Great idea ? Mind you my socks go straight into the hot air drier so I need to trace the user manual and try to determine the temperature in the drier.

I used nGen to build a GPS holder for my car and so far, since last summer, that has survived warm sunny days in the Summer - of course Texas may be different! Colorfabb also do another material, sort of next step up from nGen, Colorfab HT which again is done in collaboration with Eastman like nGen (no personal experience with HT); this has a Tg of over 100c. I found nGen as easy as PLA to print and capable of better surface finishes. My personal view is to print nGen at at least 245; go lower and you may start to hit layer adhesion weaknesses.

Appalling UM customer service today. It decided to help me, as per the message, by unsubscribing me today alleging that I had not opened any UM emails "in a while". What a jerk; I read every email from UM, just why does it think it knows what I read and what I do not. So instead of hitting a "confirm" button or similar I had to go through the rigmarole of re-registering. Really peed me off. Having spent some considerable time working in Amsterdam I do not recall the Dutch people I worked with being so - put your own word in - and we go a lot further back with my father being part of the allied forces that drove the Germans from Holland and making a number of Dutch friends on the way and lots of Xmas cards; and I had a very nice Dutch girlfriend some time ago admittedly. Looks like the Dutch are not as caring as they used to be ?

Sorry no idea but an alternative method is as follows. Note your estimated print time. You know which layer you want to check first so calculate the height of that layer from your layer height. Go to the move icon and sink your model into the bed by entering -calculated height of layer. Re-slice and you will have a new, shorter print time. Subtract that from the original print time and that is the time it will take to print the first part of you model up to the layer you want to check (give or take a bit of time either way) Repeat for the 2nd layer you want to check

Personally I am not convinced that 17 layers is enough, especially if your infill is sparse. If you increase your infill to 90% as per @gr5 then you may find it is OK - only one way to find out! Thinking about it, which I never have really, I would say from experience that the thinner your layer height then the thicker you need the total of the solid top layers to be to get the job done - this is though significantly affected by infill % - with 90% the first few layers of 0.06 will probably lay down quite well. I have never used a slicer that provides variable infill density so have always increased the upper layers

My immediate thought is that you have a levelling difference between the front and rear of the bed. If by "thicker" you mean "wider" then the front of your bed is closer to the nozzle than the rear. Either raise the rear or lower the front so that they match

For the past 4 + years I have been using my magic number with no problem at all. I know it may seem a bit radical but I use 1/1

Not sure what the definition of "enough " is but there was a thread on this very same subject a month or two ago.

The easiest way to get your best quality is firstly to print slow - if anyone disbelieves that, well have you ever done any serious physical comparative testing on the subject? Also as @gr5 says, set all your print speeds to the same value to reduce pressure variations to a minimum; and yes I do recognise that there will be certain model geometries where you will not want to do this and will be happier to accept any resulting deficiencies.