swordriff

Hi! 3dSolex Error Heater It seems you edit; MAYBE have a failing heater cartridge. Should not be a problem to keep it at 220C. Other users print a 295C. The Error appears when the heater can not increase the temperature at least 10C in 20 secs. This is a safety feature which helps preventing bruning down your house. The Error is more common in the following configuration / use cases: 1) Olsson Block is 30% heavier than standard block, needs more heat. 2) Old Merlin firmware has an even more strict error-temp control (fix: update firmware) 3) The heaters are not all 25W, some are 17, some are 26. If you have a "weaker" one you get this fault more often 4) If you print at 220C, then reduce temp to 210, the heater turns off and is not strong enough to get back up to 210 (the new temp) after it has "undershot" by 4-6 degrees; It goes from 220 to 204 before starting to recover to 210. If this process takes more time than "10C in 20Secs" (using newest FW), you get this error. (fix: Lower temp in small steps). 5) If you print at 220, and your heater is weak-ish, and the fans are at zero, and they come full on, then also the error may appear. (fix: Manually set fans slowly Example: You are prtinting at 220. You look at temp indicator. when temp has gone down from 220 to 219 then you know the heater is ON again, this is the time to turn up the fan. You do not want to turn on the fan while the temperature is falling down to a new lower level. It makes it even harder to recover from the low point. @sylus: I am also curious to see the results of the JET RSS and CF-20

PI from UM2 PCB Oops, maybe take it from 24V and use a blockdown converter then.http://www.dx.com/p/dc-5-36v-to-dc-1-5-32v-converter-step-down-power-module-142531#.VUXXCXBHmrU

@paban: Paul, you can ohm it without disconnecting it but you have to remove the cover of course. A good opportunity to tighten the screws of heaters and make sure sensors are in place.!

Frank, your order shipped from Norway on the 19th you where notified the same day, on the 24th after you asked, and now too. I understand you are keen to get it, and hopefully you will have it next week. Maybe the emails are in the spam folder? Please stay in touch. NO, In fact I am refunding you. Please pay me when you have it. Thank you.

Yes you can. EXP 1 Pin 10, also marked TP22. EXP 2 Pin 10 also has +5V How much mah are you planning to sink? Here is +5V

Paban! Ohm`s Law: Heater paste is a good suggestion, but will not help if the cartridges are a nice fit. The heaters vary from 17 to 26 Watt. You may have a weaker one.. Id say everything +- 10% is acceptable. You can Ohm it by disconnecting one lead from the pcb., If it is 23 Ohm, it will be ca 25 watt according to Ohms law: Watt = U x (I = U/R) which translates to 25(W) = 24 (V) x (24V/23R). If your Heater is lets say 30 Ohm; it looks like this: 19.2 W( your heater effect) = 24V x 24V/30R)

Maybe clogged nozzle? Try Atomic Method 2-10 times,,to clean out the nozzle. Use a different, but light color PLA so you can see what sticks to it: Not much beats this (@irobertihttp://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

ah! i know it! Its a machine where you put something inside it, and then there are some moving parts, and then there is an electronic file coming out of it, which you can put inside your UM2 and it will replicate, or ultimake if you prefer that thing which you put inside the new machine, there is a name for that.. what is it?

Gopfred stutz! Do weiss jo gäng immer niemer me`was los isch. Müemer mitem googeli alles übersetze...

Deleted

@deepshots:UM2 speed torture test but still the print quality is not what it used to be: More banding, more underextrusion (especially with thicker layers), not as accurate dimensions, etc. Not accurate dimensions; Ill bet you need to tighte the drive belts, especially the small ones in the back. Loose belts cause "over-moving, or "backlash", printing out of domension. Underextrusion; material in bowden tube from extuder drive, maladjusted drive or most likely buildup of carbon in hot end. Fix: Atomic pulls, use another colour. Do it until the it comes out perfectly clean and in shape. easy way of making atomic is inserting a piece of bowden tube maybe 10cm long into the head, then feed the atomic pull-filament through it. you can also use a tube 6mm outer dia, 3mm+ inner dia.

@anders-olsson: are you sure there is sufficient shielding between the nuclear reactor and your office, at your institute?

Steel printing:VW, M-Benz, Audi When you make cars in small numbers, you need to print certain parts because you save time and toolin cost.

Table which the printer sits on vibrates, or printer has "DHL Elephant Sits on UM2-Syndrome", so is not stable on surface, if its not the short belts.

Its the retraction that stops it sometimes. I have sent you another one to try, @cor3ys. @gixxer: thank you!

@gr5: "2) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 100 hours. It warps. It's the white part touching the heater block. Test it by removing it and passing filament though it by hand." Actually, when in use and on the border of collapsing, it will pass the "cold" filament through hole test, but when been hot for some time collapses inward on the filament, similar like an overdose heroin strangely bends the knees and has the poor subject sink into a low stance...

It is so strange, some make it work with anything, and for some it stops printing with the IPM immediately w PLA. Maybe something inside not correct.

@TheGuyKnownAsAndersOlsson: Mensch, ärgere dich nicht, verwundere dich bloss.

I have a special modified 300C hot end firmware, which you install using Cura, Install Custom Firmware, using of course the cable into the UM2. It will allow 300C. Warning! When you need it, PM me and Ill mail it to you.

PC-ABS prints fine with UM2. You need to protect the Teflon coupler, using ie an "I2K" insulator. Depending on your firmware you need a fix to allow temperatures up to 275C, allthough it my work with the standard max of 260C. If you print at 270 without this extra, it will destroy your Teflon quickly. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5316-higher-nozzle-temperature

@reibuehl : Exactly! The Ultimaker Teflon is top quality, none last longer, and if you print at 225C MAX it will last hundreds or even 1000 hours. It is the ABS printing that kills it eventually.

If the developers could themselves not login, they would have fixed it quickly, no? Unfortunately, it is the good guys like Personal Drones and Dim3nsioneer who cannot login. Hmm.. I know for a fact, from a secret source (kidding!), that several UM insider people lost priceless research in the closure of the old forum. EDIT: I lost my messages, I know many others must have lost theirs, and yes, I admit I was warned, so no complaining on it! Thanks SandervG and sorry.

I MISS YOU TOO!

I MISS YOU! I'm finally getting to know my way around here, and it is not that bad, except of course I am forgetting all those who cannot log in and some are mailing me to ask help.. which I cannot give.. Personal Drones, anders, dim3nsioneer, meduza, mohissa, and more.. I MISS YOU ALL , witty remarks, clever views, smart help, never acting "smartness" to us who are new and do not have the experience. The emotion and "missing" of the forum is getting weaker, I am loosing the force, the fine thing, sense of companionship and endless help has gone away.. the dialogues where the reply to the most simple questions is not understood and the helpers do not give up explaining until the receiver "gets it". Are we at RISK of forgetting the fantastic sense of accomplishment of our first successful print, of our fist failed print and how we fixed it and we "jauchzed" of glee happiness when we managed to iron the wrinkle out ourselves.. How complete newcomers have the joy of helping someone else in their 5th post, explaining Atomic... . BUT: I see some Asian hieroglyphic entries here.. seems it is hard to block anyone from the forum, and easy to become a member.. How about charging 1€ membership.. ( withdrawn, no I did not say that; I did not have a relationship with that forum,,,hmm). What can I do to help? Anyone.. Please?

DUAL: This is the simple way to keep the filament uncooked: Lets say you have a "main Print". This print needs filament from both nozzles. You add more work to the buildplate by making 1-4 "fake" prints next to the main print. We call these "wipe towers". It ensures, that ever now and then the nozzle (-s, if you dare) go print something unnecessary there, keeping the filament moving. But in DUAL printing there are other problems, so you just have to try!