swordriff

If you print with 0.8mm nozzle and a high layer height, as high as cura will allow, you can print slowly and use it as an effect, you will have nice ripple surface. Just remember to do the math of cubic millimetre per second, cmm/s. R=radius, 3.14=constant, LH= layerheight. S= Print speed. Plastic Flow depends on nozzle diameter, LH and S. Plastic flow in cmm/s = (3.14 x (R2)) x LH x S ! Example with 0.8mm nozzle, LH 0.6 and speed 20mm/s: (3.14 x (0.6 x 0.6))=1.13 1.13 x 0.6 (LH) = 0.678 0.678 x 15 (Printing speed) = 10.17 cmm/s.

If the Teflon does not press down hard on the hot end inside the steel coupler, there can be a leak. This can be avoided in 2 ways: 1. Turn the steel coupler all the way down (when hot, or it breaks), so the block lifts itself inside, increasing pressure and avoiding leaks, 2. Not use cheap teflon couplers from China, because they are not the right size! This is counted in 5-10 microns. A bowden tube not sufficiently down inside the teflon creates no leaks, but other problems.

Ich denke, dass die 0.8 mit grösserem Layer besser zu recht kommt, man kann ja 0.1 mit einer 0.25 oder 0.40 Düse drucken, natürlich müssen Wände dann mehmals überfahren werden. Die 0.8 ist mit 0.4 od 0.6 LH lustig!

More fan they say at www.3dVerkstan.se, when printing ABS.

Ich verstehe diese leider nicht..

Haha! Ich dachte nur dass dein Deutsch "übersetzt" ausgesehen hat. Schreib´ in lieblicher Sprache! Sag mal, was ist beim Drucken dein Problem?

Hi Gerhard! Several issues here, and you will be helped. I can see that you have printed PLA before printing ABS. When you change material, there is always som residue on the inside of the nozzle (also), which cooks to coal at the higher temperature (230+). You can start buy performing a coupe of Atomic pulls to clean the inside of the nozzle. Here is additional help, the definitive guide from some of the top people "in town": www.3dVerkstan.se Epic Support

What I mean, is that @labern is an old fox and tries to help us, so it is easier if you write in your original language and he takes it from there..? I am very happy that you use the Forum and keep it alive before the new versions are implemented, gradually. Maybe good if you update your profile with city and machine(s) you have! Have nice day! I am in Greece currently!

Hey Lutz! do you write originally in Dutsch? Because when you translate to Google German and poor @labern translates from google German to Google English, he .. well.. ehemm.. HAha! try this: Write in Dutch, Google to German, Google to English, Google back to Dutch. What do you get? "Dermlish"

Dear Didier! Thank you for the explanation! I have to read and re-read it several times. Is it necessary to make this explanation to many new users, or only to half-wits like me? Let me try: Use link to add external image, external to .. eh.. Of course all this is not your fault! BTW it is now since some time back not possible to zoom using fingers on ipad/iphone.. so things are very small. My God, I would want to be a teen-ager again, like those central Europeans with their keen, smart and sharp little eyes! Thanks for taking the time to explain. I guess the only thing I will be able to manage is to first add to gallery, then sue the hieroglyph to the right to insert image, when I am not tired.

Thank you Didier. How do you insert a link and make it clickable? Why does it take 17seconds after posting a PM, do you know? I copeied a link from someone elses image and tried to post it, Nope. I tried the hieroglyphs, it inserts lots of html, unclear what is the link itself and what is what they call " display text" or similar. In any case, I was unable to take an existing picture URL and post it. There must be something you are forgetting to tell me because you assume it must be "of cours". Now I understand why newbies generally do not stay, and only hardliners actually like that it is a bit difficult. As a newbe here, you feel syupid, you do not get a sense of accomplishment, and are generally scared away from the forum. I finally understand now what the criticism has been about. New questions every new person will ask, and I too: What is the difference between "link" and "external image"? Why does inserting a http-link to picture which someone else has posted , not work? Is it necessary to upload picture to gallery before posting? Why? What is then the use of links / "external image"? Please Didier, you do not have to answer all these questions. I am simply highlighting some of the troubles new people have here. And PM does not work right. In 1984, in OSLO on a DEC-10 with a PDPD-11 front server we had PM system that could handle 100.000 messages per second. This PM system here, can handle 1 message in 15-20 seconds, and that is only on the posting side...

Printer muss auf harter, fester Unterlage stehen, und nicht zum "schwingen" gebracht werden. Die schwarzen gummibänder müssen straff sein. Bitte nachsehen spezielle linke hintere Ecke. Etwas langsamer drucken. Temp 5C niedriger, wegen Haare. Einige Materialen machen mehr Haare, unterschiedlich von Farbe zu Farbe bei der selben Marke.

Ok, I give up: PM is now so slow that I prefer not to be contacted via PM, that is I will read but not reply. Question: How do you guys inser photo into postings? I have copied image URLs from other posts; nope it does not work. I sit here in Greece currently, on my Ipad. There are tiny icons on top of the input screen. YOU who designed them must be 17 years old. Is this your target audience?? Can the average teenager in Germany afford an UM2? Even with glasses it is hard to see what they mean. And they do not work as expected. And need to "learn" and "guess" what these icons which are supposed to bee cool mean. They look like hierglyphs. And inserting pictures in a post is so fiddly that I have to ask how to do it. It is probably simple. Why do you not make it simple, then? Why do you try to "overcool" the site and inventing everything a-new? Why can I not just copy an url and it is clickable and works? Why does it take 20 secs to "return" after posting a PM? What are you guys up to?

TOPIC MOVED TO HERE Nils! There could be manufacturing glitch in the standard block or (aouch!) even in the Olsson block. Can you measure the depth of the holes, please? If you feel uncomfortable, Of course I will ship you a new block. But it is no point in it if the hole is right. Thanks

It could be that your filament is square or oversized. Is this more of a problem at the end f the filament (it is more curved)? Quick fix: Slightly lubricate teflon tube inside with thin oil. Blow away as muxh as you can. At 3dSolex there is a slightly oversized transparent Bowden Tube which has removed similar problems before. Also MAYBE your Bowden tube is too short, so the bend-stretch is very intense and hindres the moving of the filament.This would help explaining why it is worse in the corner. The Tube should be around 70cm long

MOVED TO 3dSOLEX INSTALLATION SUPPORT Nils! There could be manufacturing glitch in the standard block or (aouch!) even in the Olsson block. Can you measure the depth of the holes, please? If you feel uncomfortable, Of course I will ship you a new block. But it is no point in it if the hole is right. Thanks

shell 0.8 infill 50-100% top bottom 1-2mm

The heater will not get stuck in the Olsson block so easily! No... They should be equally deep. Could be a manufacturing glitch in the standard block or in the Olsson block. I wanted to post an image put just cannot manage..

Lutz: Ich verstehe dein Text nicht, leider. Das mit Alu hab´ ich verstanden. Alu leitet besser, aber alle andere qualitäten sind geringer oder abweisend: Weniger masse, weniger energie für "burst mode", sehr zerbrächlich, weildem Messing selbstschmierend und zäh ist. Schwieriger zu verarbeiten weil das Material "kurz" ist. Leitet temperatur so gut dass das ganze stück sich bem verarbeiten noch mehr vergrössert und die Toleranzen deshalb schieriger zu berechnen sind, und und und...

Lieber Lutz @hofmanns-modellbau Du musst überhaupt nicht umbauen um 1st-klassige resultate zu haben. Die feine qualität bringt nur mit etwas Zeit und Erfahrung die korrekt eingeschtellte Machine. Der Umbau auf auswechselbare Düsen hat 3 andere Vorteile: 1, bei verstopfte Düse sekundenschnell diese auswechseln. 2, bei umsteig auf andere Materialien gleichzeitig Düse wechseln weil es dann viel weniger verstopfungs probleme gibt. 3: Du kannst die standard Düse 0.40mm auf eine ganz munzigen oder riesengrosse sekundenschnell austauschen, damit Du zb wie der @labern sehr klein (@dim3nsioneer: bald mikroskopisch), oder wie der @didierklein riesengross drucken kannst. Vielleicht ein cooler effekt im modellbau, kleine Teile mit dem grossen Mundstück ausdrucken..

Filament not feeding UM2XT. Could be that the Bowden tube on the feeder end is not all the way down into the receptable. This can make the filament crash into the end of the Tube and not entering it. Reinsert the Tube by removing the horseshoe, press down the circular clip holder, and wiggle the tube until it falls into place, If I am right ca 5mm more than it is now, maybe? Cut a piece of filament 10cm. Make it pointy at the entry end, and square flat in the back end. Straighten it as best as you can. Try feeding that manually, wiggeling it to make it enter the hole inside. If that works, then drag it out again and feed from spool. Here also help it by holding it vertical into the feeder. Use in Advanced "Move Material" for all this.

Hoi Lutz! Ich machte eine kleine Batch von 0.15mm, die sind von einem Japaner gekauft worden! Er schreibt Kanji damit. Leider ist mein Werkzeug kaputt gegangen dabei. Ich erwarte Teile und werde diese ende Juni wieder liefern können. Wenn Du sehen willst was möglich ist, dann sehen was der @labern macht. Er ist eine Autorität kleiner Teile. Mach mal google "worlds smallest drill". Mit 025 kannst du Vieles machen. 0.1 u kleinere layer height.

Du brauchsch ´ne fünfundreissigwatt Heizig. Isch in zwei Woche da!

Ja.. die Stahl Kupplung mit den radialen Löchern muss ganz nach unten geschraubt sein damit der Block in die höhe kommt. NUR BEI ERHEIZTES hot end die Stahl Kupplung berühren! Diese sieht zwar stark aus, ist aber unwahrscheinlich fragil! 2tens: IN expert FAN Min 10 max 100. Dann bringt die sich langsamer an. Beim plötzlichen anlass voller FAN bricht die Temperatur zusammen. Man muss mit Fan vorsichtich umgehen, sogar mehr so mit dem 3dSolex (tolles) ding. Das ist deshalb so, weil etwas mehr der Düse im Zielbereich des Lüfters sich befindet.

In 3dSolex pages under I2K part there is correct photo of installation of I2K and height of STEEL coupler. Generally, with Olssson block steel coupler must be all the way down to avoid block touching fan shroud.