swordriff

Where in Cura can I change the Z offset..?

@turbotechniker: Wenn der/die Nozzle also die 04er Düse sich aufheizt, kommt das Material schon von alleine herausgeflossen, obwohl der Feeder noch nicht arbeitet. Ich bin mir nicht sicher ob es an der Düse liegt oder etwas anderem. Dies hat auch zur Folge, dass selbst bei Retraktion etwas mehr Material nachfließt als mit der original Düse. Naja, ich sehe es so, lieber etwas mehr Material, als Unterextrusion. Der "Heiz-Raum" vom Olsson Block in kombination mit Düse ist länger als beim standard Block. Deswegen kann man mit etwas geringerer Temperatur drucken, mit gleichem resultat. Ich kenn ja Deine Einstellungen nicht, kann deshalb nur die Empfehlung um 5 Grad niedrigerer Temperatur zu Drucken. Dann fleissts nicht mehr aus.

@izzy: Anders Restraints. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1183 If Anders Leaves, I move to Russia.

Me too! I would like to have a go at it!

Good idea Teflon part. Could also be manufacturing residu inside nozzle. or Horribly mal-manufactured PLA. Some item inside powden tube? did you try to manually feed something through the bowden tube?

connect pc and Um2 with cable. Wait until PC stops doing anything. IF after 3 mins nothing happens, turn UM2 off and on again. Wait. IF not recognized by PC, change usb port.

@rigs: first layer : fan 0 % second layer : 10 % third layer : 20 % This is the right answer. The Olsson Block has a higher mass and higher "fan-footprint", with the nozzle. It is therefore more sensitive to fan suddenly on, and big temperature changes. Sorry.

kpk; can you update your profile with kind if printer you have? Hard to tell from photo, scale etc.. But my guess is two problems; too low layer height, to thin top/bottom layer. These are settings in Cura. Recommend layer height 0.2, top/bottom layer 1.6.

Labern: How about new firmware upload / factory reset?

Hehe.. @gr5: If you adjust lets say 0.05 layer, and one corner is a little "off", you have problems. This why I recomment a large-ish gap in the beginning for the 025 nozzle. The tiny nozzle gives time to heat all the filament, so you cna actually print quite fast. And as you say, start slowly. Then work it up with speed and temperature.

Hi carsten! Thank you for your interest and your post! First thing to remember is that this is not an official upgrade. It means, you can not run to UM support should you break something. There is a chance that you will not be able to get the temp sensor out without breaking it, this is due to a manufacturing glitch in the sensor cartridge, making it too large by 10-20 microns in diameter. During assembly they are therefore sometimes pressed in, and impossible to get out. It requires a new temp sensor, and you can not press UM support about a free one, sorry. Very important what @gr5 and @DidierKlein point out, re-level bed. IF YOU DO NOT RE-LEVEL BED the first time you use the Olsson Block, you will have a head crash and may break the glass. Second time it is not so important unless you re-levelled after grinding down a nozzle with "crazy" material, making that nozzle shorter, yes? The designer of the block, Mr Anders Olsson, is printing neutron traps with a material which eats nozzles in hours. Some prints he can not even finish without ruining the nozzle (he now uses also steel nozzles and is designing hard nozzles of a completely different hardness than brass/steel). You ask about layer height for 0.25 nozzle. : My impression is that people frequently use too low layer height. @meduza is getting away with it, but my own most successful prints have higher layers. 0.25 is more difficult, and it can be fiddly to get the first layer stick. I have printed he first layer with a larger nozzle, and then changed nozzle during print, in "pause". Then I adjust material flow to compensate for the different nozzle sizes. Layer height recommended first print 025 is 0.15 or 0.1. After first layer ( no fan, slow speed) you can increase speed very high with this little nozzle, easily 150 or 200 % (multiplier of 50mm/s standard cura setting). @labern has the most fantastic prints I have seen, using 0.25 jet.

A good indication is if there is 24-ish volt coming form it. Do not try to measure its contacts directly in the plug, if you do not do it correctly there is a great chance shorting it. Measure on the PCB, its easy to find where the power enters. Use voltmeterm DC Range 50V or more ( usually 200v).

Bigger chance Power Supply than PCB

In cura under TOOLS (top menu), Choose Print All at Once.. Then it will print layer here, layer there, jump to there, and back until all are finished almost at the same time, And more importantly, Theyall begin almost at the same time!! Good luck!

I would check PCB connection of heater cable. It is attached with screws, or "clips" if your UM2 is very new. The heater cable is to the right in the photo. That being said, the sensor cable looks "rotten" too, but hard to tell in photo. The heater should have ca 23-24 ohm, The temp sensor ca 105-110 at "room" temp. Try it, to rule them out, or in.

I have been unable to refind the post, its a day or 2 old. Please contact me, I would like to work for a solution.

La livraison en Oslo centre ville; cinq minut.

@mechamecha: Good question! JET's are classical design with a 118deg steep lead-in to the nozzle exit. The RSB (Brass) and RSS (Steel) have a totally different inside geometry ,possibly helping faster printing. They are both very slick on the inside. There outside of RS-series also makes modifications more possible. I can now supply 1mm on request. This is for effects. It will not print "faster", but thicker. I already shipped to a designer in Norway.

@gr5: Ho ho hooo!! Google translate ROCKS!!! Whiskey on the Rocks!

Pour la Norvege, Suisse; trois jour. France: 3-10 jour. désolé.. Russie 20j. Australia 10- ? (!)

Damien ! Votre commande navires aujourd'hui . Merci

@fuzzhao Hi! Frank is soon the latest addition to our "family"! Hope you get the kit soon! Please check his very interesting web site: www.eleccelerator.com Versatile and non-standard DIY items and ideas, open source, lot of fun!

Strongly suggest this: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints It is gold mine for freshmen and veterans alike! Can it be called the definitive guide to 3d printing with FFD printers?

Infill strength I find this a very interesting subject: It is a fact that a solid steel rod bends more easily, than the same diameter steel rod with an axial hole in it (depends on wall thickness, which can not be "zero")! Saves weight. It is because the core of the bar acts as a leverage for the bending action. After a solid bar is bent, it is still almost as strong as before (depends a little on the type of steel/material). When the hollow steel bends, it collapses more, and loses a lot of its stiffness. After the hollow structure is bent, its designed strength is completely lost and no useful calculation is possible.

The steel nozzles Jet RSS040 are available now. I just heard that CF-20 does stick to steel.. Another user has success with it. The terrible thing with printing the abrasive filaments is brass nozzles wear out while you are printing, especially of course if the object takes several hours to print.. This reduces resolution of the print of course. Here is the story (again maybe, to some of you): Anders olsson chose the fastest, most reliable 3d printer priced under 9.000€. He then started printing som shields with his UM2, shields to trap neutrons from a radioactive source. The filament they still make themselves at his institute, you can call it home made filament. The printing would make flat a brass nozzle in a few hours, since the filament contains increadibly hard material. On a scale of hardness where brass is ca 3 and steel is ca 4, his material has hardness 9.5. Since it is difficult to change the hot end of an UM2 in the middle of a print and get the correct buildgap after the new hot end is a millimeter or more longer, he designed a new hot end with exchangeable nozzles. This hot end is known as "The Olsson Block". I have now a steel nozzle available which lasts much longer, but its hardness is "still form the same planet" as brass. Anders is currently on an island in the South China Sea (this is not a joke), devoting his time to developing a new kind of nozzle with an very, very hard surface. Hopefully it will be available for testing this summer. Meanwhile, Steel is all we have. If you only print standard PLA or ABS, a steel nozzle (either form E3D, or from 3dsolex) will not do much for you. If you print Bronzefill etc, a steel nozzle will live much longer than a standard brass nozzle, at least any huge print you can think of in a UM2X or UM2. Questions are welcome!