swordriff

Hi! You can have to LITTLE bed gap also. The hole is very tiny so if it touches the glass nothing comes out. PLA prints at 210-215 initially until you have more experience. If you change to ABS (245C++) then residue PLA will burn and stick inside nozzle. Solution: 2-10 ATOMIC pulls. Search the site or www.3dverkstan.se (Bet service in European history), support pages.

The 3dSolex RSB nozzles are extremely slippery inside, and have a little longer "hot chamber" when used in an Olsson Block. Therefore you may have success with printing 5 deg lower temperature, especially when printing slowly.

If the Bowden tube is not ALL the way down into the Teflon piece, the filament has a great chance (50-100%) of crashing into the top of the teflon, and is not fed through the teflon and into the head at all. This is a total stop, and the knurled drive will inside 1 second carve a bump in the filament and then make almost no noise, slowly and happily purring away at thin air. Nothing happens! Fix: Make Bowden fix inside Teflon top. Then Manually extrude filament WHILE you help it a lot by pushing from behind so the drive can overcome the bump in the filament!

Good Question Sander! You are concerned we will get too many notifications. Agree, but here is the deal: The activity is now so low, so there will be time for you to "consolidate" the email notifications.. Best I think, is to ONLY notify when there is PM and new Reply. Forget the likes and quotes. We will see when we click email link. You never have to email about likes etc... You must include the pm text in the email notification, and when click link bring me direct to input screen.

Totally agree! Email notifications must come back! Dear DEAR D E A R Ultimaker team!

Good to have you back!

Free beer! Thank you!@skint

How old is your printer? I would say clogged nozzle, if printed some hundred hours or very hot (230+) then Teflon spacer. Clogged nozzle is fixed (usually!) with Atomic Method. Good luck!

I am so glad you are happy! @lekid. Also happy, that those I have let down only tell me. Thank you all! BTW: Had order from Japan for RSB15x, 0.15mm nozzles. He will print Kanji, is that cool, or what?!! I just need wait for a special tool from La Suisse, to make them right.

Hello Nils! Fast nozzles: There are 2 different "speeds". Move fast=smaller nozzle. Print a lot of plastic= bigger nozzle, up to a certain point where the plastic does not heat up enough. A higher heater will not help much, unless you increase the temperature risking other problems. General guidelines for fine results using a otherwise well tuned UM2 print speeds and layer heights are (many will disagree, and I am not always right): 0.25: 60mm/s Lh 0.08-0.15 0.40: 40mm/s Lh 0.10-0.2 (up to 100mm/s possible with right tuning and good heater!) 0.60: 30mm/s Lh 0.2 -0.4 0.80: 10mm/s Lh 0.3 -0.6 (The 3dSolex JET RSB080 has a 4 times bigger nozzle opening (Areal) than a 0.40mm standard nozzle. A= Pi x (r x r). RSB100x is a 1.0mm size, I call it Toothpaste. Start with 10mm/s and work up from there. Layer height? You find out! Maybe cool with a very low one like 0.1. Try it, but they are not ready before end of June. Remember, when you double layer height, you double plastic output. Here is the formula: A (from above) x Lh x speed = cmm/s. Example wit 0.40 nozzle: A= 3,14 x (0.2x0.2)=0.1256. 0.1256 x Lh (0.25,ok?)x 200mm/s = 6.3 cmm/s. With the RSB60 you will be able to reach at least the double output, if you do everything right: Heater ok (25W) Bed gap right Material good nozzle clean Bowden tube slippery Extruder correct (Roberts or original one correctly asjusted) Teflon Ok Right Layer hight Speed right fans right ( off ) plus more The highest output of plastic is with the 060 or 080. The RSB is faster because the internal geometry never goes "against" the flow. 15cmm/s is easy with RSB60 and RSB80. The JET80 is going out of production. It has the advantage that it was easier to drill to another size! One advantage of having exchangeable nozzles is that you can have one nozzle for each material, and do not have to do Atomic all the time. Atomic you find in www.3dverkstan.se support pages. This shop offers the best support I know of in Europe.

Maybe Power cables not stuck in all the way, so vibrations make the PSU hick up. Check all connections, the one into the PSU is hard to get all in.

@Dim3nsioneer: I really had a hard time spelling wiskey myself after a couple of them myself when aht where and order tu tube staggering alng..hEPP!

I strongly recommend Moi3D.com Moment of Inspiration, Fantastic guy, Michael Gibson runs it. Very personal. To believe: google "cubifyfan MOI3D Tutorial" Whatch episode 1 and 2. Moi3d is free for a period and then 300,- Should have been 3.000 in my subjective opinion!

Hi Nils! You will only need a new heater if the original is weak, which some UM2s have. I have measured them down to 17W. You would already have had problems. The Olsson Block takes some seconds longer to heat. Ther IS a difference which can be noticable, and it is that the Olsson Block w/nozzle is deeper into the fan shadow, so a sudden 100% fan on will give you temp error and an aborted print. You can have that with the standard block as well, but it is less frequent. The way to avoid it is to increment fan gradually, make few and small temp changes while printing. A 35W heater helps more and especially when printing at high temperature and high speed.

Cura & 0.8 Duse, vielleicht mit fill percentage spielen? Kanns momentan selber nicht testen. Evnt duse auf 0.6 (in Cura) setzen, und Materialflow auf 175%. Woodfill sowieso immer etwa 130% Materirial flow (ohne Cura-tricks). Retractions mit Woodfill erhøht die Chance fur Verstopfung.

Bon voyage and thank you, @dim3nsioneer, @ultiarjan and @SandervG!

If successful, they will fit UM2-Olsson and UMO! They will have M6 Threading.

Advantage of 35W heater: Less likely Error Heater when fan comes full on suddenly. I alwaus recommend adding fan slowly. In expert settings fan minimum 10, max 100. This way the machine helps making a slow Fan-on. I am working on nozzles with a completely different architecture, which will print much faster than 10-15cubic mm/s. These will require a 35W heater to exploit the full potential, because so much more filament needs to be liquified. Disadvantage cost.

It works i the beginning before the (weakened) Teflon gets hot, and then afer 10-30 minutes the Teflon implodes onto the filament restricting movement. 200h is it an estimate or did you read in advanced menu? Sounds shortish... Like gr5 says, at higher temp it is consumed fast. But 200 would be contiuously at 240+++, in my estimation. Totally agree with @gr5 and @DidierKlein. You can possibly save the day ( if we are right ), by loosening the 4 vertical head assembly screws a little. Are they very tight? Tighten with force of "the hand of a female".. But then again, there is not always a female around when you really need one, a german or swiss guy in the forum once said...

Ill be there! Thank you.

0.4 to 0.35 is not 12% reduction in throughput. Areal of 0.4 holes is 0.1256 mm2. Areal of 0.35 hole is 0.096 Reducing flow by 22% is closer to the same throughput. But I guess it is all theoretical.. (OMG I LOVE it when gr5 makes a mistake and I can catch him. My worry is the mistakes he makes which I am not able to identify, which is probably usually the case...)

Ok! Saturday is my day! Ill be there! Free nozzles for you! Thank you.

I Cannot both days.. I have not made up my mind for Friday or Saturday! Happy to be pushed either way...! I cannot find any thread in this forum . Search reveals an ancient thread.

- And free Beer! This is how: I will be at the print show in London, close to UM booth on Friday. Buying me a beer earns you 3 free Nozzles. I decide when to quit. If I cannot decide, deal goes off. Carrying me to Regents Park afterwords earns you a free Hot End, ( not mine ), but one from Olsson. Thanks! Hope the wizards & oldies in here don`t ban me for this... eh.. hic!

ABS needs much more than 210. try 250 Keep nozzle at 0.40, try the Fix Horrible settings and use Layer View in between setting trials to see if the holes are gone.