swordriff

No need for so very small build gap when printing 0.25. Print slow, higher temp and 60C bed (pla). Then height "adjusts itself" in 2. and 3. layer. Set ca 0.2 build gap, and increase first layer thickness in Cura. The rest can take care of itself..

How about in Cura setting the nozzle size to 0.1, then look in layer view. The problem may be an extrapolation glitch which may occur when nozzle size/object size are not within "printable envelope".

Lower speed to 75mm/s Lower temp to 210 increase Layer height to 0.2 Increase Bottom/top layer to 1mm Have fun! That material is difficult-ish.. But beautiful color.

WHen you say that it spews out the filament in the corner, does it then dip the nozzle in the pool and drag the whole thing to the start of the print? In that case factory reset from menu on printer itself. What @DidierKlein says can be emphasized more: levelling bed correctly. take som time doing that. when you come to the part where you should slide paper and turn the menu wheel "until you feel restistance", then back off 2-3 clicks using wheel. There is then hardly any resistance when sliding paper. PLay with the wheel back and forth. This will leave a gap slightly higher than the thickness of the paper. In the corner turn the screws carefully when the headhas moved there. Use the paper. LOOK. As the build gap about the same is in the rear, initial measuring spot? Repeat right corner. You will rarely do this again! Start with PLA. it is a bit easier. 210C. Heated bed with glue and I say 60C to start, then work down from there. You did not offer any other params, so here we go: In Cura set layer height to 0.2mm. Leave speed at default 50 or even better, reduce to 30mm/s. Our first goal is to make the first layer stick to the plate. The rest is then much easier! @Harley573: We stay with you until you manage!

I dont even remove the tube sometimes when changing material. But then again, I have an Ultimaker 2.

something wrong: YOu checked it extrudes hard. You made atomic and it comes out clean It is hot and melts plastic. Only thing left is that the 0.4mm hole itself is clogged, or that the teflon coupler collapses when hot, or both.

feels hot/ still warm is not good enough. 165C feels warm too.DOes it MELT filament on tht outside when you touch it with it?

Come on join the Chat!!

Could be clogged NOZZLE hole (0.4mm hole) itself, or intermittent temps sensor. When it stops, is the nozzle realy hot? Touch the nozzle from the ouside with filament. Must melt a big dent immediately

Something wrong in forum: keukpa posts at 9:26, then me at 9:23 then me at 9:31

Exactly! But only if that is the faulty part. Suggest you dismount it, and look at it. It should not have an "inner lip", look thinnish and fragile in the lower end. Good luck!

Look at it first ..

Ok Only 2 possibilites then: Teflon spacer defective or intermittent temp sensor error, so that due to this wackel contact the heater is turned on and off and you never get to maintain proper printing temperature over time. My guess is the Teflon is cooked. Replace.

When you manually feed, is it from extruder motor end? could be something insde tube then. Try it! Try pushing through the tube. next thing, dismount tube on hot end side (maybe need to heat up to get it off and the filament out. Then start feeding using MOVE MATERIAL. The Material should push VERY STRONGLY out of the tube end. IF it does and not skipping while you try holding it with fingers strongly, then you know its not the feeder or tube

I see 3 causes: Most likely: Teflon collapses onto filament when hot. Take it out and inspect it from under side and inside. Whould be a clean hole, no edge inside. Less likely; Still need to clean hot end inside (you say you did that. Do the cold (80-90C) pulls come out really clean? least likely; mal-adjusted feeder. When you manually feed, is it from extruder motor end? could be something insde tube then. Try it! Try pushing through the tube. next thing, dismount tube on hot end side (maybe need to heat up to get it off and the filament out. Then start feeding using MOVE MATERIAL. The Material should push VERY STRONGLY out of the tube end. IF it does and not skipping while you try holding it with fingers strongly, then you know its not the feeder or tube.

This is what I want you to do: Loosen the 4 long vertical screws. Are they very tight? Then ighten them again "lightly +", with the force to be expectes by the fingers of a female.. Try printing now.

How old is your printer? how many hours? Have you printed ABS and PLA also? Are your settings in Cura of nozzle size and layer height sensible? Does the nozzle get HOT, like is it dripping when heating up to 220?

Höhere bottom layer. Print layer height 0.1-0.15. Später mit erfahrung kleiner machen. Temp niedriger 5c od mehr weil material viel Zeit hat im Heizbereich. Betthöhe versuche machen, nicht zu klein. Plötzlich hasst Du es!

@gixxer totally agree. Also this: IF you printed PLA before, some PLA is left in nozzle. It is released (at least some of it) when you print at a much higher temperature with ABS. The higher temperature destroys the PLA.

If you tried to heat up the temp sensor I guess it is destroyed..

Agree Teflon faulty!< As it gets hot after 10-20 minutes, it collapses onto the filament. You can save the day by loosening the 4 long vertical screws in the print head assembly, it releases the pressure. They only need to be as tightly wound as by "female fingers". (....)

yea, they are expensive.. and I worry about guarantee if a non original PSU collapses and crashes the PCB.hmm.. The UM2 ahs a 220W PSU. The 2Go has 120

The PSU is scaled down so there is hardly power for a heated plate as well.

NEVER touch the steel coupler (with the radial holes) when it is cold. If there has been the tiniest leak it is stuck when cold and breaks. It is fragile and needs to be so to not transport heat! Bob! Screw the steel coupler all the way down. This "lifts" the block, prevents fan shroud contact and increases teflon pressure (u only want this if you use the I2K. Else the teflon life is reduced, so THEN leave the gap like picture!

Woodfill needs retractions OFF. No pause in printing, it must flow all the time. There is more moisture inside than in many other filaments. This gets cooked and if you have to much retractions/ too slow speed/ too high temp it will turn into chewing gum in your hot end! Woodfill: 120-135% material flow. Speed 50-80mm/s. Temp 220-225 to get it stick on hot bed, then I lower to 215 and it goes on without problems!