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Everything posted by 3dmaker4u

  1. In the MSDS for Eastman Amphora material it is clearly written that disposal is by... incineration.
  2. I would recommend: - constant speed for any part of the print - slower speed - reduced acceleration - no retraction - greased Bowden The whole idea behind all the above is to have the filament being pushed though the Bowden as constant and soft as possible/acceptable.
  3. Well, if one maintains bed temperature above glass temperature (Tg) after the first layer, then there are great chances that "elephant foot" will enlarge due to lower layers being slightly pressed under the part weight. That's why, if for adhesion reasons bed temperature is set above Tg for the first layer, it should be reduced to something below Tg for the rest.
  4. I used regular/cheapest filament they have for almost 2 years now. 1.75 mm. Neutral, gold, yellow, red, blue, green, silver, pink. There are some behavioral differences depending on color, but this is normal. Pretty consistent diameter, slightly lower: 1.70-1.72 mm. Simple and compact spool of 1 kg (I bought also some 2 kg spools). Works well at 250/110 Celsius (hotend/bed). Don't know where is produced, but I can guess is China. What else?
  5. Well, not really The fact that the plastic will ooze more at higher temperatures is one thing. On the other hand, while the printer is extruding (no matter which layer), the volume of the extruded plastic is controlled by any other parameters but temperature. It's true however that increasing the temperature can allow the plastic to slightly "expand" over expected shape and therefore producing an aspect similar to overextrusion.
  6. You can eventually use the bolt to create the nut in perhaps all 3D design programs (e.g. OpenSCAD, 123D Design, just to mention what I would recommend as an easy approach). It should be not so complicated too subtract the bolt from a hex prism of adequate size, and then scale it a bit on the XY plane, just to provide some play between the resulting nut and the bolt. Well, might not appear to be easy, but it's a way to solve the issue.
  7. Oops, why not? If you can pause the print, who prevents you from issuing adequate G-code commands to retract the existing filament and push a new one? There could be differences for Ulti G-code and "standard" G-code, but I don't think is absolutely impossible
  8. @nux You may also wanna check the knurled barrel that feeds the filament. It might be that it is "loaded" with PLA fragments and hence does not push the filament correctly.
  9. @rcarrier31 Could you please post the link to the file?
  10. Read this and see what's the best fit: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s211/sh/701c36c4-ddd5-4669-a482-953d8924c71d/1ef992988295487c98c268dcdd2d687e
  11. I would dismantle the feeder and have a very attentive look at it. There should be something abnormal there.
  12. How many topics of this kind users will have to open, and some of us to debate around? I think there are already 2-3 months since this issue has been reported. And in all situation it was about new printers. The same mysterious behavior that none of the experienced users could come to a solution. I would normally expect that UM people will post something about, at least something like "we are aware and do our best to come to a resolution, and we'll let you know about the outcome". But... :(
  13. I think there are a two correlated causes for the situation above: 1. a bit of overextrusion. Is not too much, but it is, I can see it on the vertical walls as well. 2. too hot - did you reduce the temperature while decreasing the speed?
  14. I would add: 4) The fan cooling the cold part of the hotend not working or working improperly. 5) Filament has lower/higher and/or not constant diameter.
  15. Octoprint has no reason to know the height of the building volume. X and Y dimensions are eventually used for display purposes. The maximum travel on the axes should be normally solved by the machine itself, "hardware" (minim and/or maxim endstops) and/or software (firmware parameters). It is somehow dangerous and anyway confusing have the height configuration in the host software.The place for it is in the firmware, if not fully hardware implemented (with 2 endstops, one at each end of the axis).
  16. 1. I really appreciate the diagonal infill, but when it comes to debugging it would be much, much better to have the axes movement separated (i.e. 0 infill angle). It's easier to judge in one axis than in a square of two I suggested this once to Nicolinux, could we have the tests performed the same here. 2. Extruding 0.5 mm trace width with a 0.4 mm nozzle at 0.2 mm layer height and 50 mm/s should not be such a big deal (for a printer that easily runs at 6-8 mm/s at nozzle width. Is the skipping philosophy implemented in UM really useful? I mean, does it pay all the issues with underextrusio
  17. Just an issue that does not let me sleep It seems to me really peculiar to use at 240 C a material that is rated 190-210 C, even for workarounds. Actually I understand that 220-230 C are "normal" in UM world It also seems that UMs, in general, report higher temperatures than other printers. Could be more accurate readings, but that's the point, it means UM prints at considerable higher temperature. Why is that? I normally print ColofFabb PLA at 200 C for 40 mm/s, 0.4 mm layer width and 0.2 mm layer height (3.2 cmm/s) with no underextrusion. Hotend is either E3D v6 or a J-Head version.
  18. Was it printed half from the diagonal to the bottom-left corner and the other half from the diagonal to the top-right corner?
  19. Yeap, ColorFabb PLA/PHA may require flow below 100%. I think this is because their very tight tolerances for the diameter. Most filaments have diameter below the standard. If you calibrate E with such a filament and then go to CF, then you will most probably over-extrude.
  20. Looks to me like over-extrusion. Since nothing changed, something had to have changed Since already checked for some possible causes, Could you also check: - the consistency of the filament diameter, and - that the hobbed barrel is clean?
  21. I cannot stay aside There is one clear difference between "blue" and "orange". While blue is equally spaced, meaning a well calibrated XY gantry, the orange shows signs of backlash or whatever causes the lines to come in couples. This is also visible on 0.1 mm print, but since the plastic is more squished, it almost look as normal, but it is not. I fully disagree that you cannot print traces that are larger than the hole diameter of the nozzle, except maybe if the nozzle is so sharp that there is very little metal around the hole so that extruding more plastic will make it curling around th
  22. A far as I understood how UltiGcode works, the calibration_cube shows: - 0.5 mm infill spacing - 0.2 mm layer height - 0.1 mm3/mm for both first and top layer infill lines So, no underextrusion here.
  23. My question is, if we cannot rely on microstepping on Z, why could we on X and Y. I accept that, in general, dimensions in X and Y are larger, hence the error is less significant. But the point is that everybody is calculating resolution taken into account microstepping as well. So, the 5 microns (perhaps 1/8 microstepping?) that UM2 specification claims on Z are reliable or not?
  24. Is this a new printer, I mean at most 6 month old? It appears to be the same behavior like that in the discussion here, and yet no resolution. Could you please slice a simple test "cube" (20x20x10 mm) and print it to be sure it exhibits the issue? Then post both the G-code and the configuration file (I don't know how this can be obtained in Cura, but should be a way). Of course, a picture would complete the... documents of the case.
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