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Everything posted by 3dmaker4u

  1. But what if the firmware received some wrong configuration and the extruder does not want to feed more than a value. Which is not necessary a firmware parameter. This behavior was reported on new printers only and in all cases it's about the same behavior: reduced infill when it should be 100%, most visible on top layers, but not present on first layer. Gcode was checked and if VISU-AL codes will confirm, gcode reasons are excluded. Then only the firmware could make the difference. Don't know how production flow is, but it does not have to be for all printers.
  2. George, seems that @VISU-AL has a SF UM2, so he knows what is talking about. And it is something related to the topic, which proved to be actually not an issue with top layer only, but also affecting other layers. And the story is that solid layers print fine, but not with 100% infill, for a reason that nobody actually found. And this appear to affect new machines. Forgetting about any axes misalignment, I begin to suspect a kind of limitation of the extruder speed. I don't see signs of underextrusion in the sense that is normally used. What I can see is that while the user is expecting th
  3. Well, since you are there anyway to change the filament, you can manually command, but definitely a pause (preceded by a head move) will definitely be better and all the codes (though sliced separately) could be "cleaned" (remove unwanted/unnecessary instructions) and assembled together. Very interesting idea!
  4. If you are in the chapter "how can I use thingies?", what about using some... pins Cut the two ends so that you get a pretty hard transverse. Then you can heat end and then just pin it in the filament. It will automatically glue. The other end could be trickier. Perhaps a soldering iron could be used to heat it, but you also have to provide a thermal break, e.g. a clamp attached in the middle. Alternatively, just lay down the two parallel filament wires and press a heated pin on both. Just a couple of thoughts
  5. It's too hot for the actual speed you're printing the top. Options: - decrease temperature in general (this is useful for the other problematic areas) - decrease minimum speed in cooling control
  6. Do this in your slicer, by adding the corresponding "end Gcode". Octoprint can only help in let you manually control the HE and HB temperatures (preheating, if you wanna say so).
  7. @Yodajammies I would suggest you should think splitting the model in two parts, and print them separately then glue together. You cad do either face-back or left-right/ If doing so, use also a generous brim to prevent warping, and cut it after gluing. For the holes on top of the head, increase top solid layers and/or general infill. For 15% infill, use at least 6 top solid layers for 0.15 layer height, or 8-10 for 0.1 mm layer height.
  8. To the first point, I would say you're printing either too hot or too cold.
  9. 90C bed temperature is by far too low for ABS to keep sticking on the bed. Start with 110C. You can eventually increase to 115C or even more. This will depend on the accuracy of temperature measurement, the gradient of the temperature on the surface of the bed and the air flow around. Use a brim of at least 3-4 mm. You should increase it pretty much (8-10 mm) if your part has acute angles or tall vertical edges. In general, the larger the part, the wider the brim. However, it is important that the brim sticks well by itself and no air bubbles are trapped underside. For this level your bed so
  10. Well, is not only with CT. It's scanning in general. The scanner itself is helpless, except if it is accompanied by a good post-processing application. This has to intelligently smooth the model, clean it up and do some other stuff for the model to become useful for other application. This is however application dependent, since different application will have different requirements. I don't know the requirements for the output generated by the software used with the CT, but it definitely not appropriate for direct 3D printing. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/1439-me
  11. Ok, just had a look at the models. It appears they are the result of a kind of scan, perhaps X-ray or something alike. The bad news is that your model contains lots of detached parts. This can be easily viewed in MeshMixer (was suggested before as an alternative to things you cannot do with netfabb for no money) by doing Analysis > Inspector (lots of magenta spheres). That's something that has to be cleaned up, though this is not your problem It is also that the interior of the bones has many crazy details that for sure are not fragments of the broken bone, but just the result of scanni
  12. Yeap, I agree, though I was referring to the impact on print However, about uneven heating, are there real chances with either a PCB heater or a silicone pad and a sheet of aluminum to have such bad variance of temperature to cause breaking the glass?
  13. The controller mount should be decomposed in 2 brackets and 1 support that would attach to the brackets through a push-slide configuration. This way you can print each part in a "natural" position and have no overhang/support issue, not to mention the mechanical resistance problem that the original design expose. The re-design could be easily done in 123D Design, for example. Just import the STL from Thingiverse as a model and start designing the 3 individual parts.
  14. I don't think thermal expansion counts at all. Printing is achieved at rather constant bed temperature. Well, first layer may be at higher, but normally just 10 degrees, and contraction from say 65C to 55C will be something like 0.01 mm per 100 mm. I had a similar concern for a quite big ceramic plate (ca. 500x500 mm) on an X400 from GermanRepRap. But when I measured the variance between 20C and 110C, it was practically zero. "Adhesion" may definitely differ. I think there are two kinds of "adhesion", when you do not use any kind of "glue". 1. By normal air pressure - this is obtained if th
  15. It's peculiar anyway. If it should have been bent, the pattern would have normally appeared in the center only. As it looks is rather that the rods are... oval!? Eccentric pulleys would produce the same effect, since they will tend to bend the rods that are fixed at the ends. And if the rods are oval then the pattern will be repeat on each layer, but differently I think, due to the 90 degrees change in the orientation of the infill and to the very little difference between the starting and ending point of the perimeters on each layer (at least for the very simple square shape in the test). A
  16. How many teeth has the GT2 pulleys? 20? Seems that, for a reason or another, at each turn of the smooth rods there is a slight lack of parallelism between the pairs, hence the carriage is moving up and down on a 20x2 mm pattern on both X and Y.
  17. The left one looks very much like ribbing produced by layer height vs. leadscrew pitch.
  18. So, in most pictures the scar is "negative" (some missing plastic), but I saw at least one that is "positive" (some more plastic than necessary). The factors that influence the scar are: - retraction speed/acceleration: at the end of the outer line of the shell (exterior or interior) retraction takes place before moving to infill; if the retraction is too fast, a bit of the already extruded plastic will be sucked back, leaving kind of a hole - the negative scar; if the retraction is too slow, the nozzle could ooze, leaving kind of a bump - the positive scar - printing speed/acceleration: if
  19. That's an issue caused by overhanging. The point is that, if on a particular layer, the perimeter starts to curl in a region, it will evolve vertically, and perhaps extend horizontally as the layers build up. There is definitely more heat in the affected area. Could be that retraction takes place nearby, before jumping to the next layer. As with any overhang, the factors affecting the result are temperatures, cooling, speed and layer height. You already have good values for the parameters, but seems that they did not suffice for the filament you are using and/or the part you are printing. A
  20. It looks to me a combination of: - oozing filament (you know that color can make the difference, even for the same manufacturer) - too high temperature (especially true for the above, where a few degrees may count) - too much fan well, I thing this is how the fur is spreading everywhere The images remembered me about cotton candy, produced from sugar melted in a heated drum, blown by a fan and collected as "fur" on a... stick
  21. I think there are two perspectives we have to distinguish here. One is related to "design for print", understanding you keep considering both the printer and the slicer, when you create a part. This is taking info from the printing technology and from the slicer manufacturer and take them into account as "design rules". On this side, a 1.6 mm wall, printed with a 0.4 printer, using the Gcode produced by a slicer that uses nozzle diameter as the width of the final printed extrusion should be guaranteed to produce 4 perimeters with no infill. There could be another parameter for the extrusion
  22. If you want something more "visual", then in MeshMixer: - import your mesh - press W to activate wireframe view, so that you can see the faces - select Sculpt - Select Brushes > Reduce - "Paint" on the model - Play with Properties, mainly Size and Strength to adjust the effect - Press Ctrl+Z to undo the change you don't like
  23. It appears to my eyes that different colors provide different levels of contrast when you observe a 3D printed object. If this is true, the question is, which colors are the best? This is not about observing the artifacts. By contrary, this assumes you obtained a nice smooth surface, perhaps as mate as possible, and you want to analyse details of the object. I tried to search, but cannot find relevant keywords to avoid bulk results about contrast between colors, so I said to myself that someone may know. Obviously is a matter of perception, it is subjective, and may vary between observers,
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