pm_dude

Retraction heavy prints are hard to do with flex pla because it will flatten the filament at the extruder level and cause friction in the bowden tube.

print at 230C-235C and slow (20-30mm/s) for 0.1/0.15mm layers

Additionally, the first layer as a different print speed (in mm/s) and then it will increase to the speed you specified.

I'm not really afraid about the compression strength. I'm more worried about how it will react if I need to pull the shelf.

Make sure you are exporting the stl in mm. If you export it in cm or in meters it will be loaded in mm anyways. I don't know if the proportions you are after are the good one but you can check the size of the object when clicking on the scale button.

From Cura you can push the firmware version to the printer via USB. Each version of cura include the corresponding version of firmware. I'm still running with 14.07 and some had issues with 14.12 recently. Note that firmware versions prior to 14.07 do have inconsistent build plate level from print to print.

I wonder how much waste of material the switch will cause. You need to purge the nozzle at every switch.

Hi Eric, I'm no expert in ABS prints but since it is requiring to print at higher temp and usually with less fan I would recommend to use higher density on the infill and print slow.

there are a few on thingiverse that are parametric using openscad.

I get really good quality prints with FlexPLA and NinjaFlex without oil. You just need to figure out the good tension on the feeder (I use Roberts feeder with the filament guide). Even NinjaFlex doesn't slip now. The thing with Flex PLA and Ninja Flex is that tall prints eventually become too flexible and move during the print...

wow. C'est pas fort comme impression... Alain vous avez beaucoup de beau example ici.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5442-feature-request-allow-to-turn-off-fan-behind-extruder/?p=48288 Their shipping is pretty expensive so I ordered three. Want me to send you one instead? I can put it in the mail tomorrow.

Cool. I'll be making something like this hopefully in a near future. That is a pretty well detailed step by step. Thanks for sharing

Gantry height is the distance between the nozzle tip and the Y axis rod. If you cheat that value in the machine settings you need to make sure the order you are printing the objects will not allow potential collision with already printed objects.

Hi Howard, Welcome to the forum! Is it possible for you to share an example or post a few images so we can better understand what you are experiencing? I Cura, you can look at your model in XRay view. If you see red sections it mean there are open edges on your object. Normally the object should be watertight so no edges should remain open.

The fan starts fairly slowly. at 0.1 layers it give plenty of layers to start and the temp is sort of stable (+-1-2 deg variations). Since I changed the rear fan for a more silent one, I can now hear the side fans making a really annoying sound on the first few layers layers until they get to at least 30%. I'll need to change those as well at some point. The good news is that those are 12V fans and I have plenty of those at the local electronic store. Now I just need to get that metal plate to protect the nozzle from the air flow.

Do you have horizontal banding on your prints? I mean more than the first prints? I have the impression that the heated bed is causing more power fluctuations on the nozzle over time. As mentioned before when putting the heated bed off the gaps reduces and so does the horizontal banding. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6907-horizontal-banding-on-um2/

Hi 3Devos, Welcome to the forum! When you say you have tried with other Cura versions did you install the firmware as well? If you just used the software without installing the firmware on the printer it wont make a change at all since the heated bed control is firmware based. Like you mentioned, that type of banding did not occur for you at first so it seems like the power fluctuations could be made worst after some time of use. I have no real proof of that but I can see from my first print to the more recent ones that banding changed over time Can you try printing a section of the banding test with the heated bed off? Start your print at your normal bed temp and then stop it for a cm or two. As you may have read in this thread the heated bed bang bang mode seems to be the cause of change of flow on the nozzle.

Kilh, I did get these issues with Ultimaker Ultimate-Blue as well.

Chris, I used to run them at 100% at a height of 0.5mm or 1mm. But since this test I'm capping them at 50% in the material settings and have less issues. I haven't done overhang heavy prints or a lot of prints with bridging though. PM

You may have power fluctuations. If the power drop even for just a slight moment it will reset. uSB printing also reset the printer when connection to it.

If you dont know how to use it then check in the plugin tab to see if you see the UI of the pause at height. If so then its there and will pause your print. You can also look into the gcode file that is pausing to see if there is M0 or M1 code somewhere. Are you printing from the USB or from the SD card?

It will depend on where you live of course. But like dirkdirk mentionned its 200-230Wh. Funny the info is not on the UM2 product page anymore. So $/kwh * 0.2 * number of hours. Here its 5.5cents per kwh * 0.2 * 24 hours = 0.26$/day

have you tried this? http://designspark-mechanical.software.informer.com/1.0/

So I have decided I was gonna redo my living room and wanted to change the shelf that is under the tv. That shelf will be made of 2 or 3 thick (1 inch maybe) wood plank of about 7 feet each and wanted to use thick lead screws like these to make the feet. I should use 6. with screwnut: Now the question is: Should I print those instead? I would probably need to do 2 set of 6 screws of 15-20cm each. I'm thinking at least half a inch wide. I would change the threads to be easier to print. Could be pretty cool in bronze, copper, brass or stanless fill for the finish. Anyone think it would be too weak? The TV is on the wall.