pm_dude

But just to clarify the quality that we have seen here is not so related to the material I would say unless you got a bad batch. I have two rolls of that blue PLA and its not that bad really.

Same here

The pronterface UI changed recently and feature the graph and the temp differently. At least the stand alone version does.

Shapeways utilise cette méthode pour faire le Strong & Flexible Polished. Voir a 1:10 probablement avec ceci: http://geology.com/rock-tumbler/rock-tumbler-media.shtml

What do you mean? The repathing is not that hard unless the section of infill follow a complex shape that would require aditional combing to avoid exiting the surface.

That would work only in that specific case. You probably want to do it for the top infill only and maybe not for the perimeter.

Glad you made it work . Watch it when changing speeds and layer heights. Big change in speed or layer height will affect the flow (extruded volume) and you could suffer under extrusion for a short while. Again its just a matter of balancing the differences.

Go figure... My friend was just finding it interesting too look into. I'm pretty sure it wasn't the wheels haha.

Thanks. I'll try to get some needed numbers from my friend and see how we can modify the existing version to match the needs.

Thanks James for explaining.

I still don't understand why it need to be made so wide. It might be just an impression but can't it be made based on a real size hand (especially kid size)?

Maybe you can try to put the bed a little closer to the nozzle so it squish a little more. If still no luck try 3DLac. Its a spray and works really well on PLA, PLA-HT and XT.

or use less perimeters and the infill will kick in.

Yes in my case it was just in Photoshop. - Put the images in Grayscale - Removed the shadows and highlights to get the picture as flat as possible in medium gray - Then I painted some masks to clean the picutre and define heights You can see that its far from perfect since dark air are not over skin... Then in 3dsMax I used displacement maps inside the picture frames. Fun project

@Anders, A friend have seen the torch wrench you made and was wondering if it could be adapted for more torch resistance and for specific values. He think it could be useful for bikes repairs/tune up.

Small update. I had to print that sample as well and contacted 3dhubs support about it. They sent me the nut.stl file and they updated the sample zip file. Hopefully it wont happen again for other hubs.

Hi Eric, So far my experience with support have been very good (US side for me). Sales on the other hand as been a bit slow on the reply side. I dont know what kind of support to expect from second hand printer but I would ask support about that as it "should" be based on the serial number of the printer.

Si tu es en mode simple et que tu passes en mode avancé, Cura va te demander si tu veux copier les paramètres actuel.

Hi, Welcome to the forum. Additionally to what have been told you also need to take into account the time spent on a layer. If you have a thin tower the printer might have to slow down on a layer because it need to give it some cooling time (see minimum layer time advanced settings) and so it could raise the print time quite a bit. If the tower is too thin the printer might not be able to let the layer cool down enough (see minimum speed in expert settings) and the results will be melted plastic because the nozzle stay in contact for too long with the plastic like this: If thats the case you can use Cool head lift settings in the expert settings. So printing individual towers could lead to more problems.

Hi, Welcome to the forum. Yes its pretty common unfortunately. You can try replacing it with another 5V fan. Read here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5442-feature-request-allow-to-turn-off-fan-behind-extruder/

Honestly if the height is 4.5mm then it mean the width of the bridge section is what, 10mm wide? If you print cold and slow I think you would not even need supports except for the round perimeter. As mentioned above, look at the posted link. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing#custom-supports 0.01mm is too small of a distance. It will connect with the border. 0.4mm wide lines are too thin. Even if the print head is 0.4mm wide it need to be able to pass twice (assuming you are using Cura) on those sections unfortunately so try with 0.45mm. You can easily see what the results will be in Cura. Load the object, let it slice, go in layer view and validate your tests.

There is no clear difference between normal infill and zigzag infill. The only thing we could do is remove toolpaths smaller than x length. That could be done. It would be another plugin

could be a simple matter of using the wrong values. I dont know if Cura as some limitations to using , instead of . for numbers (ie: 0.8 instead of 0,8). The swap end is at -1 by default because its optional. If the value is smaller then the swap start it wont be used and the swap will be for the entire height left. Make sure the path to the saved gcode is valid and is complete ex: c:\test\object.gcode More info available on the youmagine page.

Use SwapAtZ plugin https://www.youmagine.com/designs/swap-at-z

New page on Youmagine https://www.youmagine.com/designs/swap-at-z