Blizz

Thats a pretty impressive guide! Nice job.

Will this be our next project? http://www.3ders.org/articles/20140717-3d-printing-with-ice-cream-mit-students-create-a-3d-ice-cream-printer.html

If you don't get any specific error messages, perhaps your gcode file on the SD card is only partially written? You can't count on what the printer tells you timewise, this is always of by a magnitude. I would try to save the file again and make sure you correctly remove the card from the PC (like if it is a mac or linux: unmount. on windows: safe remove).

Grinding usually means the feeder is trying to get the material through faster than the nozzle allows (either because it really is going to fast or you may have a - partial - nozzle block). I would slow down material flow a little bit and see if that solves it without underextruding

gr5 my UM2 happily continues printing while I'm messing in the TUNE menu, as a side note. If I'm modifying the speed it even changes while I'm turning the knob

Deepshots the 2nd picture is really not fine:) The wall is gone at several places. That is something that you definitely do not want. It should be perfectly avoidable with the correct settings I think gr5 gave some great suggestions to try out.

I had pretty much the same issue with my printer delivery. I had it delivered to the company I work for and even though I put my name in the delivery address, only the company was mentioned. There are 500 people working in that building so my heart pretty much stopped when I saw the tracking go to "delivered" without hearing anything. It took me 4 hours of running around like a headless chicken to locate the darn thing. Luckily for me, since I know where the package was coming from and what it was supposed to contain they weren't too annoying in releasing it. I sent sales a message that same day of delivery and they assured me they would look into it. Haven't heard more since its not really important for me, but I hope they did. Far from pleasant, these things.

Sander yeah I considered that already. I actually have Filaflex here, but even with sewing machine oil, I can't get it to print. The filament just bends and curls up in the feeder. Don't know what I should try next.

G1 E8 F225 ; purge nozzle with 8mm of filament Guess that's the one you mean. That would solve one of the other issues for me, namely that when starting a print after another the nozzle is empty. So that leaves only the retraction during a print.

Daid I thought that my current nozzle was going to be unusable. Since the filament creeping upwards is not a direct consequence of the cut I have, I just figured I might as well try to drill it out. I didn't even know yet when we were at the Ulti-Evening. Can they do that at ProtoSpace btw? Otherwise I'll just bring it with me next time I am certainly prepared to pay for the effort, either in cookies (if they accept that currency) or plain ol' cash

Okay thanks! I've been hesitant to order at 123Inkt before but since a couple of people present at the Ulti-Evening had good experience with their filament I went ahead and bought a whole bunch of colors there. I'll wait until then as at the moment I have only "dark" colors

That's for sure... The supports it generates are very easy to remove. Now if I only could solve the fact that it retracts the filament more than it forwards it. After about half an hour I'm just printing hot air. Not something I ever had with Cura.

Hehe Titus I propose that we all print a label, to do it with style I'd really like to try and print a dual colored name tag, anyone know how to get started doing that? Edit: seems Dirkels beat me to the idea But I wholeheartedly agree!

As I said, I don't have any of that material nor the place to put it if I were to purchase it. Hence the question for someone who would be able to help me in this matter:)

Yeah I definitely don't want to start drilling the way the linked video above shows. That's why I started a new topic about it instead of just reacting in the one where that video was already posted The weight of the entire block is completely unbalanced, as the heater block sticks out to the side of the nozzle. It would never rotate without hopping all over. You can pretty much forget centering your drill that way. In this case it's the drill that will need to rotate.

I was at the UM Evening a couple days back. When they heard I was a fairly recent addition to the community they asked me what I thought could really be improved. I replied with 2 things: Introduce a geek mode in the firmware for the UM2, remaining time only is stupid for the techies Create a central repository for categorised tips and tricks. The community should be able to rate these as to get rid of "less good" tips As a n00b I noticed as well that it's a lot of work to actually gather the intel you need and it would be awesome to have that in a central location. Some kind of a categorised wiki with ratings would be perfect. If they don't want to set it up I might, but it would be cooler if this was also linked to your forum account (no anonymous contributions).

I'd like a larger hole in my nozzle to be able to print laywoo-d3 and laybrick etc (probably .6mm?) without clogging. Unfortunately I really don't have the equipment. Is there anyone here (within driving distance of Antwerp, Belgium) who can and wants to help me out? Would be much appreciated!

I use https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-power-cable-filament-guide and I find it helps the filament scrape as well: I couldn't achieve the 10mm3/s before without issues but with IRobertI's feeder and this I find that I can, with the filament on the spool holder.

@MedicalModeler: You can set them both in the code and on the printer (while printing in the Tune menu). In the gcode will probably be for advanced users only. If you are using Cura you can switch to advanced mode and use the "Tweak at Z" plugin. Just double click it to add an instance to the list below. Set the height at which you want to change things (either in mm or layers) and configure what you need. You can add multiple instances of the plugin if you would like to change stuff at different heights.

For me 45ºC for the bed when printing PLA works perfect for the first layer. I up it to 55 a 60ºC after starting either the 2nd or 3rd layer (basically at the point I start my side fans). 75º (what the default was when I bought the printer) was simply too high so 80 will probably be as well. I am printing brims lately for parts with a smaller base, they come of easy enough with little visible "damage" and it helps a lot.

Steve Guns on FB, if anyone wants to add me

Agree about the avatar thing. But that doesn't make it that much easier. For instance Titus, I've seen your avatar before, yet I couldn't link you with "the real person" initially. I propose that next time we wear labels with our forum/real names

I have the episodes and I'm eagerly waiting to start seeing it. Unfortunately the wife decided she wants to join me. There is only one issue: She hasn't seen a single episode of 24 yet and wants to start at the very first. Still trying to convince her to do that on her own

You'll see my ugly mug then. For some reason they thought I was interesting enough for an interview :-) I wonder how much will be left after they cut the bad pieces ;-)

It's more of an "everywhereextrusion" Perhaps useful to know: For this to work the filament needs to be retracted the entire time, as making it shorter pulls the plunger down. They gave a couple suggestions on how to do that. One was to edit the gcode and replace all " E" with " E-" and Daid suggested that setting the flow rate to -100 might work as well, but he wasn't sure. I'll make sure to add this to the pictures as well, I guess it will be lost otherwise. Funny part of the entire store was that the way to get the chocolate in the syringe and the air out involved a lot more steps than the actual making of the aiding tools (something with swirling around the syringe attached to a piece of rope, it will be in the videos when they post it and it's pretty funny to see)