bob-hepple

I also Used a Emco 5 for a lot of years good machine especially the swiss old version, I had the milling post on it but serious light weight not much cop really, but the lathe was spot on...

For what its worth I would not touch Chinese machines at all, they cut corners and you'll regret it, I have had English , Swiss and German machines, I have had the really small Sherline machines (U.S) and while the accuracy was very good just the size of the machine is problematic, Proxxon also falls into this sector, and while the larger Proxon is very nice the cost is well out.. I would look at the German Machine Wabeco, and the Italian machine (I forget the name) but one thing is for sure, you only get what you pay for, and don't go to small you will always find a bit that just does not fit... pay for good tooling and you wont go far wrong but don't do the Chinese,,

I would Look at the einscan fairly cheap and has the free hand movement your looking for with a decent resolution...

I have herd the 3D Sense accuracy is not very good, look for the Tolerance settings?? I have seen some fairly cool hand held scanners but the cost is triple to the David scanner we are talking mega bucks but they will do what your after.

Kris I just drop the current draw, and it is way cooler.

Thanks very Much will try it 8)

Ultiarjan could you tell me what the test file was ?? is it a Thingyvers file?? Thank you

medusa: fair comment, But I will stick to my opinion while respecting your's;)

I think as soon as we talk about super glue your doing a "Heath Robinson" and a Plastic gear ??? ditch it, and get a Bondtech end of story. I have an UM2 and another machine and I think the UM2 is a lot more refined than I originally thought,, excepting it has some flaws and replacing them is better than getting rid of the machine, the UM2 is a good machine..

Neotko Thanks for the reply?? I don't find that an easy thing to understand, where is the gcode preview? are you calling that opening it in notepad. I know the processes have there layer numbers but why when you specify layers and temp setting they are adjusted by 1. and when you specify a layer and temp setting there is no change.. in single head mode it works in dual it does not. along with the priming tower it strugles

The Title may be misleading BUT when I specify a process with one head and specify the layer numbers from 1 to 6 with temperature changed on them layers S3d does it,, BUT when I have two heads going the temperature changes on the 3rd layer 5th 7th 9th and 11th ??? even though in each process the temp setting are the same, it seems S3D is taking the second head as a second layer and not adjusting the temp till the first head has its next turn,,, Also if I specify a layer say at 72 there will be no temp change on that layer... Has anyone come across this, I'm having to manually edit the G code at a given layer to turn that temp head off.

Welcome to the Bondetech Users, Great Product great guy who replies to emails8)

I did that is how I have controlled the temp. when the head is not being used,, the priming tower is a different matter..

Torgeir thanks for the advise I had already ordered a crimp tool for another job http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251268499824?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT So I'm hoping it does them both will order the connectors from Rs Thanks you

Going to do Foehnsturm Mod the only parts I'm missing is the wiring of the fans which is only cable and connectors any idea where I can get the connectors>>

I contacted them about the Priming pillar, which you cant specify when to end and was told they are working on it..and the Temp inactive/active.

Zwakie The answer is I didn't,,, The print was at about layer 5 when I dropped the Temp to 175 then time taken for the second head was not that long so there was not much time for the idle head to cook the filament, I then killed the temp and the end of the layer where the second head was not being used, Bothe heads used the priming Pillar but after the second head was finished with, I then Killed the priming pillar.. so the only single head then printed the remainder of print.. I think what your after is being worked on for S3D

Thanks for the Reply Fair play don't have any problems with that.. I'd even drill the case if that's what it takes.

This works for me I make sure I'm about to catch the filament with a pice of wire just spool it Start G28 ; Home all axes M907 900 ;Reducing the current for extruder ( remove this line I use it for Bondtechs) G1 F3000 X20 Y20 Z20 ; Bring extruder to the front slowly G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 F150 E25 ; purge nozzle with 25 mm of filament G1 F1800 X30 Y30 Z5 G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again G1 F255 E0.25 ; purge the extruded length 0.25mm End E-5.0 F500 G1 F2000 Z120.0 G28 X0 ; home the X-axis M104 S0 ; turn off heaters M140 S0 ; turn off bed M84 ; disable motors Hope this helps

I'd be carful about buying of Ebay,,, Reading all the Hoo Harr about feeders, Mirrored ect will the Bondtech's still work??

Mel Thanks for the Reply, No Sorry it was not done on a UM3, Although I do use s3D on my UM2 and have no problems..

I Look forward to seeing the end result, before I go ordering another Bondtech,, Just in case there is a problem with the firmware ???? BUT Really looking forward to it... All the head and Bowden are hear just need another 35w heat and probe from 3dSolex when he's up and running????? It is what I kept the Um2 For...

Just got my first dual head print out But with S3D finally got the prime head to works this might be useful to anyone who uses S3D and a Novice like me..

Thanks I edit the gcode but you have given me other options hear to think about either way that second extruder needs the temp off/or set to 0 just leaving it is going to cause a lot of problems ...(when it finished with....) thanks B

Neotko thanks for the reply was going to add M104 S0 T1 ; right extruder off at the appropriate place in the gcode.. will look a the thread.. looked at the thread MM well above me, and as I'm not using a Um3 will switch off the extruder when finished with (and till s3d get up to speed.. Thanks.... Thanks