bob-hepple

I'm Ready to go only short of the Bondetch and the main cable (black sheathed) thinking about it I have the heater - temp probe that would mean it is only the fan cables left in there is that correct...

RudyG don't do it I'd wait, I jumped last year, and I can see benefits with the Upgrade/Mod that I think will make the jump to dual head printing easier for you...

st_le_brew how are you getting on with the matchless nozzles,, I take it your using the matchless block How you finding it,, I got one last year but have not fitted it yet waiting to do the 2nd extruder mod then fit them both>>> I think I got the first batch where you had to scrape the nozzle outlet???

Forgot to say Windows 10 is my operating Sys.

Ever since the last update of the forum IE 11 does not work you have to use edge.. why I don't know but its been a long running issue.:(

I'm using the Flexy plate system so the magnetic base is stuck to UM2 alloy bed then the plate on top of that.. I did away with the Glass (Bad Decision) so now if I want to use the Glass it goes on top of the magnetic base plate when I make some custom holders to keep it put......

I agree after print with the Ngen Flex last week it gives a smell but it also has a waxy oily feel to it and I would think twice before I put it in my Mouth.. I have made Living aids for people who cannot hold implements and use there mouths for daily living, I would feel uncomfortable producing something in Ngen Flex for them to use,, again this is me personally after Printing with the Material and feeling its tactile feel.

Yes I know, but just asked the question in a different way as when I did the z adjustment it didn't operate in the way I expected, to get PLA to stick I was actually touching the "BT" in the z menue - and had to go to 40d heated bed for it to stick, which I didn't expect,, N-GenFlex I backed off the z Position and no heated bed worked a treat,,,

Then Food Safe Materials should Do ??

N- Gen Flex is Steam Clean able "nGen_FLEX is temperature resistant to about 125C. That means 3D printed objects can be steam sterilized at 121C." http://colorfabb.com/co-polyesters/ngen-flex so if it can be sterilized could it go in your mouth ?? not sure

AreDigg been trying settings with Build Tak PLA Colour fab I went to advanced and selected z height adjustment, I set my nozzle to just touching 16.48 on my um screen and left it there I didn't back it off at all, build tak didn't like it PLA not sticking so I uped the temp range to 218 for the first layer then down to 215 and 210 does this sound feasible, not sure if the print will come of yet??

Fitted the Build Tak Felexi system to the alloy plate, removed the glass, wishing I hadn't now, I don't think I can remove the Magnet base without destroying it, and the alloy plate, I would like to re fit the glass plate on top of Build Tak's base plate do we think the heat will effectively get to the Glass,, I know I have to re set 0,,

Got the Ruby Nozzle a few weeks ago haven't used it yet

I look forward to converting my UM2 with your design. And breathing more life into my UM2

That's interesting I went to great pains to get paper 0.25 I used originally 0.20 but my print fused the difference made the print remove from BT with a bit of persuasion, but no marks. I used Ngen Flex at this point and worked well no heated bed though.. I will look to see if this feature is in my Firmware from Tinkernome v16.3 when you say you dialled it back if I get this right, you set the nozzle to the build plate as just touching then dialled the offset say -0.25 correct???? thanks

Thanks Labern for the Reply. I'm setting up to use BuildTack at moment and getting a bit Paranoid on height already fused one test print to bed I'M using N-Gen Flex, using Flexi Plate System.. I will be trying DTi Method when I made the bracket..

have you tried to fit one I would be keen on seeing one of these work

Can anyone tell me the importance of the 1mm setting in the bed levelling routine, has it any purpose? I am wanting to level my bed with a DTi but before I start messing around need an answer to this question. I also presume there is a figure in the firmware that it thinks the paper is a thickness 0.10? if I level the bed by running the head back and forth as you would with a mill and dial in the level in the x and y then zeroe will still have to be done say with a shim and I could use say 0.10 0.25 depending on whether I was using Glass or BuildTak... any help appreciated...

Durr sorry thanks for replying to such a stupid question ??? thanks

I thought there was a search facility on the forum don't seem to see it???

Mike I'll throw in my opinion for what its worth (not much), that is a bit of a loaded question to ask on a UM Forum (really), but I would not go for the Zortrax,, for a few reasons, but using there own software is high on my list.. the build quality on the Zortrax is good, but there is a flexibility with the UM's that Zortrax does not allow, I do believe the Zortrax will print when you want it too,, but your learning there software and that would be the highest drawback. Believe me I have looked at a lot of machines and purchased one but the UM's I have come to respect.

when you say lower extrusion to 100%, don't understand where you mean>> have re levelled the bed (again) and made sure the gap was slightly larger this time, it is working but for how long not sure...

Neotko thank you for the reply, will try that, again where it is as you say pulling material up it is very thick there.. Thank you

I've been dogged with first layer problems , but just seems to get worse tried levelling the bed again, and again, but never seems to be any better it starts really good then wham PLA everywhere take a look below.. layer height 0.15 temp 200 I'm using S3D so first lay percentage is 120% but the first half of the layer is perfect...so don't see that the 120% is a problem if I get past the first layer then the print is fine BUT it can get messy as picture shows....

yes I have seen flash cut a few years ago,, I also had a Sherline machine if I remember and I could be wrong they like to sell the whole lot computer as well and it is Linux which put me off Great Machine though.. but a bit small and also there was an issue with the Z axis with backlash at the time, if you look depending on what mill, there is a lot of weight on the main body supporting the Z which was a big problem on my machine, but I'm going back 10yrs hear so they might have changed it bear it in mind though weight of the head versus backlash,, also no ball screws????