Labern

Will you coat the printed parts with anything? I have found that the carbon fibers absorb water.

Yes it's meant to be the same but the fibers completly change how well it prints. How's the spear gun coming along? I'm really interested in it and would like to print one myself one day.

The how brittle the end result is can depend a lot on what temperature it is printed at. It's very hard to get good mechanical properties from it though due to being brittle when printed hot and layer adhesion issues when cold. One plus side is higher glass transition temp over Pla which means you can print things for in your car which wont deform, and no smell when printing unlike abs. But I personally would only use nGen as you get heaps better results.

I don't have anything I can show right now and I'm super busy but I got mine from 3D Solex.

It can sometimes be due to the steppers getting to hot or if you have a travel speed to high. You can prove if any of the pulleys are slipping buy marking the shafts and pukkeys and checking them after it has skipped. If this is ok and it's always after about 1 hour I would think that they are over heating.

I have had quite a bit of experience. If you find the 0.25mm nozzle easy to use then you won't find the 0.15 hard at all. I don't print with ABS but PLA prints really nice.

You may need to do a factory reset then install new firmware. Sometimes problems are not fixed without the factory reset as i have experienced in the passed.

For XT I have sanded and then polished it by quickly rubbing it on a piece of carpet. Haven't tried XT-CF20 though.

Number 2, maybe because of thermal expansion of the filament in the nozzle. Check to see if the extruder is actually moving when paused.

Yeah I don't know if PID tuning the bed works but maybe worth a shot. Yes you will need a more high temp filament unless you can get someone else in your area to print one for you. If you did want to try a more high temp one I would recommend nGen from colorfabb. The finish is really nice and it's not hard to learn how to get nice results unlike XT and others. I print it slightly hotter then PLA ( 220 - 230 ) and fans on 30%

I guess if you auto tuned the bed you would want the fans blowing on it so it would tune in a more real life environment.

Mine used to drop as you explain but that was because I wasn't given a more powerful heater and was using the stock UM one. After I changed my heater I have no problems. It may drop about 5 degrees when the fans turn on but it slowly recovers without an issue. What fan shroud are you using? I have my design and set to be on full at about 2mm.

This will probably due to you PID settings Because the power supply is small and to save it from tripping. The heat bed heats separate to the nozzle. The nozzle has priority over the heat bed. So with fans on high it cools the heat bed and if the nozzle is still requiring a lot of heat then the bed drops in temp. If you tune the pid for the nozzle it should fix this problem.

Yes you are correct in the wire placement. The printer will work if you don't change the PID values but I did an auto tune using the tinkergnome firmware. I increased the auto tune temp to 200 as that's close to the print temp and it now works great. It might alarm on the auto tune due to over shooting. If you reset and start auto tune again while still hot you can get it to work. Once complete you can do it again from cold and it won't alarm.

The 2.1 Beta

You can adjust the Initial layer setting. It's normally set to 0.3mm and as long as your bed is leveled good then you can reduce this down to 0.1 or even slightly lower. I have successfully set it to 0.06 before but this was onto blue tape. You can also turn the skirt off or reduce the skirt distance if your worried about wasting filament.

Are you altering the temperature when you adjust the print speed. You can't expect to change the print speed without adjusting the temp and get the same width lines. I find it hard to understand your pictures and explanation but to answer your first question I think it's due to the initial layer height which is effecting how many beads you end up with. But I'm not sure.

It maybe due to slippage in the feeder as it will be under so much pressure.

You can use swap at z plugin but it will end up so complicated. For all those things simplify 3d might be your best option if you want to falk out the cash.

Are you increasing the initial layer speed or keeping that low?

It was This one. I haven't had much time to spend on the forum lately so I don't know how many I'm missing. At the moment I'm just have quick looks and the community page but in this case I just happened to look and the new unread posts in the forum and saw it. I had other notifications around the same time that this post was entered.

Yes it will. You can get dimensional differences due to the flow vs temperature. You may also experience under or over extruding depending on which way you alter the speed. You may need to adjust the temp as well as the speed and if you adjust the temp down do it slowly so it doesn't undershoot and cause under-extrusion.

This is quite normal for most users. You don't need to change your belts and can get away with just some regular cleaning. You need to oil the axis's so this can be a good time to clean also. The wear comes from the pulleys not being aligned up exactly the same. If you are concerned about it you can print some spacers to align all the pulleys so this doesn't happen. I have thousands of print hours on my machines and have the same issue on one machine and it hasn't caused any issues.

Under plugins tab there is pause at Z This will allow you to set a height for it to pause at. You can add the pause at Z plugin more then once in the same print.

I am still missing some notifications of topics that I am following.