Labern

It sounds like you have an issue with the heater block. It should not have any plastic on the top of it. This means there is a leak somewhere or something is not aligned or installed correctly. Have you tried doing an atomic pull to make sure the nozzle is not blocked? If you do this you may see where the issue is.

If you are using colorfabb then it should be within +/- 0.05mm of 2.85 as advertised. if not you should contact them. i have measured mine regularly and it has always been bang on 2.85. Measure the filament in a few places and rotate it also to check to see if its round. Does it matter? well this depends, I have found that it doesn't matter that much but it will depend on how far out the dimensional accuracy is out, what you are printing and if its very inconsistent then you will see more issues. I would check your caliper first. make sure you zero it with a light force that is the same force you measure your item. Measure something which is larger that will show if the scale is correct. Some calipers are inconsistent when the battery gets low and some don't work correctly if the slide gets grease/oil or water on it. so you could try cleaning it with alcohol.

Sorry, I have never. I'll see if I know anyone who has. Sweet, thanks I understood the 'Tarzan corner' was a good place to stand as there is often a lot of action. Action being cars spinning out of control Sounds good. I'll book my ticket and aim for there then.

I have both and I would get the extended. It does get a little bit of vibration lines on tall parts but small items that you would normally print on the UM2 are the same, for the flexibility it's worth it to have the extended. The UM2go has the best quality and is my most used printer.

Have you tried printing on blue tape?

Sorry, I have never. I'll see if I know anyone who has. Sweet, thanks

If you enter M302 ( allow cold extrudes command ) into the start of your g code then it will allow you to print at temps lower then 170deg.

Has anyone been to Zandvoort circuit park? I would like to attend the DTM racing and want to book a seat but its hard to know where to sit is good. quite a few areas are already taken also if anyone wants to join me let me know. i was just going to attend 1 day.

You can convert them with Onshape which is free as I did this with my modified versions.

I have not seen them also. But I would advise you to just build the extended as it won't cost much more to make. Most things are the same and you have the added benefit of having an extended.

Post your print setting. Temps, speeds etc.. looking at the print so far it doesn't like they are the best.

Are you able to level the bed correctly? Did you make sure you loaded the correct firmware for your model of printer? @mkoenig it sounds like you have a different issue all together. Did you replace your main board also?

The Extended + is still being advertised on UM's website.

I don't like the Raise 3D feeder. If filament gets stuck inside or broken then they provide you with a metal rod to push it out. Problem is the metal rod scratched up the sides of the feeder and the owner said that the nozzle blocked up with shavings from the feeder parts that came from the scratches.

Have you looked at your model in x ray View to see if there are errors with your model? Make sure you haven't turned off top/bottom layers.

How long is it? It's not from holding the main board or ulticontroller board is it??

I will be seeing the guys at UM and spending a few weeks looking around. It is a long trip but I'm really looking forward to it.

That would have been cool to go to. To bad I will miss it by a few days as I will be going to NL on the 29th

Quality is the same. I would recommend if you can afford it get the extended. Especially if you will do and statues. You can chop models and glue them but it is nicer if you can print all in one piece. There will be the days where you will want the extra height.

Probably the one he developed for Ultimaker.

I keep forgetting to comment. I was invited to have a look at a N2 plus the other week. Its big, really big, At first i was really surprised by the quality of the appearance and the prints. these were single extruded though. note that it doesn't have nozzle lift system or nozzle wiper. The touch screen is amazing. Full color with great menus and graphics. How it shows the progress is really cool and for jogging any of the axis or extruder. You can even enter a distance. Only downer is you have to crouch down to use it as its set really low. The bed leveling is so insanely complex. Its a system that is meant to be set by factory and not ever need adjusting but it was out by 0.2mm on arrival. The adjustment system is flawed and the glass was thin to a point it was bending. this had been modified with a thick reinforced plate with build tack type surface by the time i had looked at it by the owner. The print head is really big and heavy so much that the rods sag when in the middle of the build plate. they was also a lot of slop in the bearings so you could wiggle the head. the electronics board vents are also next to the heat bed and apparently this caused problems so this was closed off and a external vent was installed. there were also other small issues like the caster wouldn't rotate properly upon arrival as they hit a protruding screw. the door also needed stiffening. Some of the build was surprising built and seemed expensive like the double bed ball screw z axis and the solid anodized aluminium cnc machined spool holder. As i said earlier the prints despite all the issues looked better then i thought they would but i cant say its good without seeing more prints and watching it print. So if you want a big ass printer with a cool touch screen and are prepared to do a whole lot of mods and install a light weight print head then it could be a good option for you.

I'm just surprised that people actually use raft.

PLA has a very low glass transition temp and this is why it can't withstand the temps in your car. There are a variety of filaments that have higher glass transition temps but ease of printing varies. You can use abs, pet, nylon or high temp Pla based filaments. Companies tend to give them fancy names as they put in additives, so just check out the glass temp before buying and the base material type. I tend to stick to nGen from colorfabb as it's fairly easy to print with and doesn't stink. Searching for users comments on brands or types may help as you will see the problems that the filament is prone to and ways to solve them.

There are also ones from E3D, stainless steel or hardened steel and 3dsolex (or one of their resellers) also have Stainless steel. Hardened steel has better heat transfer then stainless steel and prints nicer. 3D solex will probably soon (correct me if im wrong) have nozzles with a gem stone in the end which can print very nicely as well.

They delays in providing detailed information raise a few doubts in the kits abilities.