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Labern

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Everything posted by Labern

  1. I have a 50w heater in my UM2go olsson block. It works great on every nozzle. You can print just as fast with 35w but 50w heats up faster from cold. I just wanted faster heat up times because of how the 2go heat bed setup works. You just need to tune the pid settings which is best done with tinkergnome firmware but you can also do it in pronterface.
  2. Depends on the age of the printer. The older ones the blue clip didn't really do much but the newer ones it holds the white tube clamp tight in the up position so it wont come loose. There are ones you can print that are a bit higher on youmagine that you could use which hold the white tube clamp up.
  3. I was also at the show and they were printing models using it on a UM2, so I'm sure its 2.85. I have also used it on UM2 and it prints really well for a flex material in a bowden setup.
  4. PLA is pretty great. It's strong and easy to print with really good layer adhesion even at low temps. It's only problem is the low glass transition temp. I agree that strength test should include different print temps. Layer height and line width would also be good to see how much it effects strength.
  5. Is it a ultimaker 2+ or 2? Sounds like UM2, so With the power of you can just pull the filament out. It's hard to pull but will come out. Then you can remove the blue clip from the Bowden tube clamp on top of the feeder, push the white bit down and pull the tube out. You can do this on both ends and push the broken bit out with some filament. Before running again you should sharpen the end of the filament like a pencil which will help feed in without getting caught. If it's a 2+ you move the leaver then pull the filament out.
  6. Thanks. Yes time does fly by and I had an amazing time. The first week was the best though
  7. Yes it's a very good result. It just sounds funny to be using a race nozzle at 30mm/s.
  8. Also Acrylic glue works well for PLA as it slightly melts the surfaces together. You can use Acetone for ABS.
  9. I have never used an UM0 before but I'm sure I have read that the travel speeds can't go as high. UM0 also has a longer heat zone so you may need to tweek the temp or something to battle the Stringing.
  10. I just found some of the rings of roof support stick with CPE and have to be cut off, where Pla they just peel away. But this may just be a temp thing on my part. Maybe one of the pieces for the cube puzzle would make a good test. They are small and you could rotate it in a way that requires support.
  11. It was in PLA not CPE thought. But I found that it still works well for CPE but I normally don't use support roof.
  12. HERE: is the one that I first learnt this technique and was impressed with its overall results.
  13. With PLA and 80% support roof this method makes for very smooth overhangs. I have a few objects but I don't have the files with me and it will be 3-4 days before I could dig them out. Still traveling.
  14. Hey Matt Good to see you on the forum If I have to use support then I usually print with the .25 nozzle. I normally print a .1 layers with a .4 nozzle, so if you print with .1 layers with the .25 nozzle the increase in print time is only on flat surfaces. So as long as there are no large flat surfaces then the extra print time is minimal but the support comes off so much easier. I then leave the support settings on default.
  15. I had a 16 hour print fail at 15 hours 40min.
  16. 30% infill. Even if you use more powerful fans, when you print fast it pulls in more so the curling is more then when you print slower. There is a point when your printing temp is two low then it will start to curl as the material starts sticking to the cold tip of the nozzle and dragging it. Also there is a point where having a hot nozzle touching a model with more infill keeps the layer soft like chewing gum. But all this depends on how picky you are. For normal prints you don't want to have that much experimentation to get it right so you need to be a little less worried about some inperfections. But it you want that one perfect print then just the your time to learn how the settings effect your print.
  17. Yes you can repeat that on a stock UM2 as it was my bench mark when I first started 3D printing
  18. I don't. Just heaps of cooling and print slow and cold.
  19. I'll add it to my list for when I get back. I require one for myself anyway, and if I'm making one then make more wont be much more work.
  20. Depends on layer height but default is 210 deg for 50mm/s. Something has changed you just have to find out what. Feeder skipping means it's gripping so I would rule that put unless it needs a clean. So could be loose or problem with temp sensor. Heater not fully in. Bad Teflon Hotend parts not mating together properly. Bad settings. Bad roll of filament. Remove the bowden tube and try to push the filament through by hand.
  21. yeah. shipping to Netherlands would be $9euro
  22. I can easily make alloy ones with slots in them so you can see the bowden tube.
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