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Labern

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Everything posted by Labern

  1. Yes 90 deg is very high and 60 should be fine. 0.3 is actually the default initial layer thickness and you won't need to adjust it if you have never adjusted it before.
  2. Congratulations, I also think this was the best entry. Well done.
  3. What material are you printing with? Are you using heated bed? if so what are your temperature settings? Have you leveled your print bed? What is your initial layer thickness?
  4. Do you have pictures of your failed attempts. They can be easily added in a post. I'm not sure if i understand your problem correctly but There are different things that can cause some of the issues you have explained. If you print thinner layers then you need to reduce the print temperature as the material is moving more slowly through the hot nozzle. This is the same if you have a slow print speed. The Antenna on the Robot can be difficult to get really nice. There are different ways to get nice results on small items. Printing slow and cold / printing 2 items at once / Printing a small tower next to the Print or adjusting some of the minimum layer times and cold head lift options are all ways that can help with some of these issues. The best option can depend of the type of the print you are doing and this is something you just get a feel of the more you print.
  5. did the belt actually tighten? You need to press down really hard as you tighten the motor screws. You can also check all the screws in the pulleys, They need to be super tight.
  6. If you use Tinkerware then you can auto tune the head bed and switch it between bang bang and PID. So this may help give more control. I recommend using that firmware anyway.
  7. First select the material that you would like to change then select customize. edit the temps then select save. You can save as a new profile or select the material profile you want to save the changes to,
  8. Its up by your Profile name
  9. These files are normally released 6 months after the printer is released.
  10. Yes you can use that. The one supplied by UM is Magnalube-G which has a PTFE gelling agent which does make it a better grease long term then lithium grease which has a soap based gelling agent. You may find that you have to clean it and re-apply a bit more often as the oil can sepperate away from the soap.
  11. the recommended bed temp is quite low at 45deg so I guess this would make it easier to get off
  12. it looks that way. good thing i don't use T-Glase
  13. Yeah I always try to leave my prints till they are ambient. I ended up with a spare glass anyway so I can just swap them if I want to do another print straight away.
  14. Yeah this has happened to a few people using XT. I havent experienced it myself but it was happening quite a lot a while back. Good thing the glass has 2 sides
  15. Is the temp overshooting when you set it to 260? At what temp does it alarm? Just check if any of the connections are loose and the temp sensor is fully inserted and not loose. I only heat mine up to 230 or so when I do atomic pulls and it works just fine.
  16. I have made a Gopro mount to fit my speargun. Its designed so it doesn't get tangled in the bungy's on the top and bottom. Also a lot more streamlined the any others I have seen to help stop it getting caught in seaweed and easier to push though the water for longer breath holds. [print=3568][/print]
  17. Version 1.0

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    This GoPro Speargun mount is designed to fit the gun without getting caught in any of the bungy's when the gun fires. Its also meant to be streamlined to help stop it getting caught in seaweed and allow it to flow better though the water for longer breath holds.
  18. When you select the nozzle size in cura it calculates the required flow for that nozzle. Same goes for setting faster or slower speeds.
  19. You need to reduce the temp a lot. As the filament is moving very slow it overheats. I normally print between 180-190deg Show us some pictures of the failed prints and your setting your using.
  20. what are your print settings. It can be quite difficult to print with. You may need to put a drop of oil in the bowden tube and its normally best to print really slow 10 - 15mm/s
  21. It has been said it's down to the feeder as it pretty much stops because the flow rate is so small. So if you are printing at 30mm/s then a 0.4mm nozzle will be printing at 0.24mm3/s And a .25 nozzle with the same settings will be printing at 0.15mm3/s which is very slow indeed. But in saying this I have successfully printed models with a 0.25mm Nozzle at 0.04 layers like the frog below. I have used 0.02 layers but it ended up with 2 many blobs.
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