Labern

The rear fan is behind the grill connected to the hot end. For older printers the fan starts when you turn the machine on. New printers the fan comes on when the nozzle reaches 40deg. This must be working or you will experience the issues you having. This guide explains about the PTFE coupler. Grinding could start for excessive retractions or incorrect feeder tension or blocked nozzle. So just need to determine which one you have.

PTFE Coupler that is deformed is the usual culprit of this.. Is the filament being ground at the feeder?

Sorry to hear your experiencing problems. So you are getting the errors even when the fans are not working? Strange. Did you put the spacers as per grey ones in this photo? Are you using the original nozzle?

Printing with a 1mm nozzle has a big effect on settings so the colorfabb ones wont apply. You will need to up the flow rate. I haven't printed with a 1mm nozzle only 0.4mm so cant share my settings. @DidierKlein reciently printed out some pretty mint prints with a 1mm nozzle that he posted in Post Your Latest Print so he might be good to get some pointers from.

I guess that bed at 165 is a typo

I like how you added youmagine to the top menu bar.

Shouldn't the button be called "Store" or "Shop"? "Buy now" tends to Indicate that I'm currently looking at a product and i click the button to buy it. I don't have a problem with it in its current position.

ColorFabb have a Black Friday deal. Buy 4 Rolls and get the 4th free. I might buy a couple of rolls of Ngen and try out some filament they have.

Chloroform.

Any pictures? Their are 2 types: Hair and stringing. It depends on which one of these you have. Most Stringing can be fixed by Lowering printing temp, Increasing Retraction distance or Increasing travel speed. I would increase the retraction distance as a last resort as its good to keep these short. Make sure the bowden tube doesn't move on retracts first before increasing it as that may be a cause for needing the extra retract length. Hairy Prints can be fixed by changing to a different color or material. Printing hotter or cleaning the Nozzle.

Yay now I can type on my mobile with no lag.

My Little Nozzle holder insert for my UM2go Carry case.

If you print with thinner layers, It extrudes a lot slower as not as much plastic is required. This means the material is in the heat zone for longer and therefore expands more. This also goes if you slow it down. so slowing it down and going for thinner layers means you can drop the temp heaps. I can print at 30mm/s 0.1 layer and 190degees. So 20mm/s and 0.04 layers should be able to print cooler then 190degrees. Another thing is if you have 20mm/s for outer shell and 60mm/s for the inner shells then If you optimize the temp for the inner shell the the outer one will be to hot. Or if you optimize the temp for the outer shell then the inner ones might under extrude. So for best quality its best to keep them all the same so you can get the best temp. If this now print to slow you may find going back to a higher layer height for example 0.06 and getting the right temp and speed will be better then your previous tries. or settle for a slightly higher speed but keep them all the same.

Just put an @ symbol in front of the persons name @designmaketeach

Doesn't look like that will turn properly. A few strings and blobs on the inside. Pretty small though.

Ngen must be the flexible filament as they show the headphones and state the Kickstarter campaign on the ngen website.

I also want to try a roll. Didn't like XT, so hopefully this prints a bit better.

Layer height? Speed? Temp? Nozzle Size?

Yeah the feeder skipping back will cause under-extrusion in the area that it skipped back. It normally skips back if the speed is to high for the temp. Or if there is something causing to much pressure built up like a blocked nozzle or deformed PTFE Coupler. Try a few Atomic pulls to clean the nozzle as well.

You have mentioned before that you have an I2k washer. Have you checked to make sure this is sitting properly at the bottom of the steel nut? There must be no gaps between this, the nozzle block and coupler.

sweet. I may give this a go just for the fun of it.

The Main Cause of this is the PTFE coupler. (the white part under the sprint in the hotend.) After a while It starts deforming and causes under-extrusion. The way to see if this is an issue it to remove it and visually inspect it. It could be that you are just trying to print to fast. What speed are you printing at? another cause could be incorrect feeder tension / slipping. I would suggest you read THIS and THIS

So @SandervG where's your example print this time

Have you tried removing the covers and printing?

Would also be good to see some of the models you are trying to print. I remember one of your prints in the past had a crazy amount of retractions.