Labern

If you are running the stock feeder you may need to pull it a part and give it a good clean. Have a look at the impression of the feeder wheel on the filament, To much and the filament will be squashed flat which makes it tight in the bowden, not enough and it can slip. About 2 pyramid imprints side by side should be about right.

Cura 1.99 is a lot more stable then 15.09.91

Don't think so. If it's tangling then you will get under extrusion and doubt it will be that much. Put the machine on the edge of a table and put the roll on the floor. It will unwind easily off the roll and will be a good way to test your theory.

If its dirty it can not move one step then jump a step. Could be why you over extrude then under extrude a bit. If you download the ultimaker app it has instructions in there in how to grease it.

Have you cleaned a greased your Z screw?

70C is quite high and higher then the glass transition temp of most PLA's the default temp on UM2 is 60C and I also print at 50 all the time. You can also get those bubble marks where it doesn't stick, you can see it peel up as it goes over those points when printing the first layer. maybe where you touched it or oil dripped on it. A good clean with Alcohol may help.

Do you have air-con blowing in the room? Have you tried a different roll of filament?

Wood filaments wont get the effect you are after so you are better off painting it. Here is a guy from my home town doing a

But what about the wood smell, Its the best part of printing with wood filament.

I havent used it but it Sounds interesting so I'll check it out.

The nozzle only starts to heat up after the build plate has reached full temp. Have you waited long enough for this to happen?

Mine has had the same noise. I depends on the speed its extruding. But I also thinks its from the grommet

I thing its the power requirements and most cards can only transfer from the card to a device but not the other way around, A few have tried in but it doesn't work.

The gcode that came on the card has all those settings so just save that g code or keep in on your card. You don't need to load it into cura to print it. Just select it from the print menu on the printer. The only thing is the machine settings like temps and acceleration speeds if adjusted will need to be put back to default. You could make a material profile the same as the default PLA and name it test or something if you want to make changes to the Pla profile.

Sure All small stuff i print 100% infill, this slows each layer down a bit. slowing it using other means like cool head lift gives imperfections like banding and blobs. Test test test, You need to find the perfect temp for the speed and layer height. If you adjust either one then you need to test the temp again. A first for me I found to much fan and to cold makes i curl to much and makes the print hairy. Patience,

So I just received a few rolls today a gave it a try. Apart from some minor warping I gotta say I'm pretty impressed. A lot easier to print then XT, layer adheasion is strong. I put quite some force on my part and it didn't break. No stringing or blobs so not bad for a first try. Printed at 50mm/s, 0.3mm Nozzle, 0.1 layer height, 230 degrees, 80 degree bed, fan 40%.

Yeah there kind of is. but its kind of speed and part related. If you are installing a 0.8mm nozzle It generally means that your not really wanting high details, just fast prints. Most details get rounded off a bit and my last 0.8 nozzle print was at .25 layer and came out pretty good. For any nozzles smaller then 0.4 you can get a finer details and can lower the layers quite a bit but you don't need to lower the layer heights much. 0.08mm layers look the same on 0.4 and 0.25 nozzle, you just end up with less rounded edges. Things like lettering end up really clear where you may have had gaps if it was 0.4 nozzle. Angles print better with lower layer heights but overhangs print better with higher ones. How long prints take also have an effect. So its really part dependent. The new cura which will hopefully be out of beta testing soon is really good for setting up print profiles. So you will be able to make lots of different ones for different nozzles and different situations.

For me it's very slow. Sometimes I wonder if I ever clicked the notification and if I click it a second time I have to wait even longer because the page loads then refreshes.

Just saw you are in America so get it Here

Ultimaker website Here Or 3dsolex Here 3d solex has on sellers that maybe in your area and also have a lot of other upgrades which I highly recommend looking at.

Yes you can get a lot more details with a smaller nozzle. What is hard is overhangs. As the printed strands are a lot smaller they can break off. So models with lots of overhangs are not so good. Support material breaks off a lot easier with smaller nozzles, so if you need support its great. Using support roof enabled on the new Cura comes out supper smooth and peels off really easy. I use smaller nozzles all the time and love using them. The only problem is the print time is a lot longer. Not much longer on models like the Eiffel tower as it doesn't have a big base. But you can see how long but changing the nozzle size in Cura.

Awesome

I actually printed something the other day with the new Cura 1.99 and it had a massive flat overhang. I used support roof and it came out super smooth. I was really impressed. Support came off really easy as well.

You can easily buy all the parts to do this but there is a reason that Ultimaker didn't proceed with this. There were temperature issues where the heat from one nozzle heats up the other. As the nozzles don't lift up then the oozing from the one that's not used can then knock over your part. Also the lack of any good soluble material for PLA. You can order all the parts from ultimaker but you might want to look at THIS Thread as it is the best option at the moment.