Labern

Just edit and save all your material profiles on the machine to have 110% flow.

Well I hope you are not teasing us again and it's actually going to turn into a product This time.

As the top axis are the same in length as the UM2, belts are same etc. The slop is no differnt there and only thing is the height. The bed is on longer rods but linear bearings are the same so the slop is no different. I have both and to me the quality is the same. I would get the extended as there maybe that one job that you may need the extra height. You may think you don't need it till you start using it and might find it comes in handy.

it also looks like you don't have skirt turned on?

It definitely isn't retracting at the end. Have you made sure retractions are turned on in cura? Also check retraction speed and length on the machine. Default retraction speed is 25mm/s and length is 4.5mm

The only time I have experienced a problem like yours is when therectile is an error and the printer stops causing a melted blob. It looks over heated. Maybe you could show a short video of the printer finishing a print with the melted blob. Is this ultimaker grey? There is a batch of grey that prints better at a lot lower temps. Or maybe you temp sensor is out a bit.

If the cold pulls stretch then you are pulling at a temp that is to hot. So wait for it to cool down more until the pulls look more like Gr5's pulls on the right. I pull mine at 70 deg on olsson block to get them to look that way.

Just changing the temp can effect the size of circles.

It's very hard to get really nice prints on thin small surface items like this. Slow, cold and multiple items to allow for more time to cool.

50mm/s is pretty normal. You can print 100mm/s but it depends on what sort of quality you are after and the nature of some designs work best printed slow. You need to understand that prints take time but If you want faster prints then get the Olsson Block as you can print upto 4 x faster with a 0.8mm nozzle. Your temp and speed is ok for 0.1mm but temp maybe a bit high or speed a bit slow for 0.04 mm.

I will try later. Not home at the moment.

Look in layer view and see if everything is there. If some parts are missing it means they are to thin for the nozzle size. If you don't have the Olsson Block then you can trick the printer to think it has a smaller nozzle just by putting in for example .3mm nozzle in cura. Print slow ( 30mm/s ) and cold ( 190deg ) fans on 100% Would be good to see a picture of the actual model also.

Are you using cura? If so what version?

It could be good to print it in multiple parts but it would be still good for him to find the cause of his issues as it shouldn't happen.

Sometime printing with no glue is ok but for big flat surfaces using glue can be better. What cad software are you using? Nozzle temp and print speed?

I hope you can understand all this... Un-clip the x/y rails out of the black Belt/rod holders and remove the head assembly. Make sure the rods slide easy in the bearings in the head. I'm guessing the Bushes in the main guides have gunk in them and needs cleaning out. For this you will need to slide the black holders and find which one is jammed. Undo the pulleys on that axis, Put some sewing machine oil on that rod and try to pull it out. It may be really hard to slide the holder off but you need to get it off. After you get it off you need to clean all axis with a cloth wet with sewing machine oil till all the black gunk is gone. Also clean inside the bush that was jammed. Run the rod in and out and keep cleaning. Put back together and move head around and give another wipe. You need to lube the axis with sewing machine oil on a regular basis.

I wouldn't buy from Ultimaker for a while till all the filament issues are gone. I have had 2 bad rolls. When you get a good roll it's very nice filament but they are working on fixing the current situation will the filament that keeps breaking.

@Dim3nsioneer don't forget to upload your entry in this thread also.

Try Tinkerware Its better the the Ultimaker firmware. But if your screen broke it wont fix it.

Hi Yes I have the Kit from 3Dsolex. It works very well.

Cool

I also had a tube from 3dsolex that wouldn't hold. If you loosen the 4 thumbs screws a tiny bit then push the tube hard down and tighten the thumb screws. It locks it in tighter stopping it from coming loose. But as LePaul states. Check to make sure the white lock has the metal teeth and tube isn't chewed out at that point first.

Thank you for the reply Labern; very helpful; Sorry for the late response, I had issues with the thermistor which (hopefully) were due to a broken/faulty unit. Yes I think my issue is timing out because the heater cartridge is not suitable; would you happen to know could I upgrade the cartridge easily, i.e. just swap in a higher wattage one onto the board, or does it get complicated? Thank you again, Mike Hi Mike You can get higher wattage heater cartrages at 3d solex Or one of there on sellers.

Just noticed you brought Chat back. In a weird kinda way, but still I'm glad it's back. When did that happen?

I'm guessing CeBit in March 2016. Biggest show on there upcomming events.