Labern

I think what Neotko was referring to is how the filament holds a natural curve and how you have the roll mounted the filament curve is opposite to the curve in the bowden tube. I guess it will twist in the tube. Can you see the feeder impression rotate as its going through the tube? The stock mount the filament would only need to rotate 90degs but yours would need 180 to be in its natural form. Not that i'm saying you way is wrong or bad. I like the design. Would be interesting to do a weight test to see how much weight is required to pull filament through the bowden depending on the direction that the roll is mounted. See if it has any effect and how much difference there would be with the different directions.

Cool Just wanted to make sure before giving it a go.

@donandi You remove the two hot end fixing screws on the right hand side of the hot end. Slide the spacers onto the fixing screws then put the screws back onto the hot end. The spacers lift the screws not the fan shroud.

@SandervG would you know the actual settings for things like wall thickness and top/bottom thickness of this print?

Even heat conductive paste drys out and will go hard. It's only really good for things like heat sinks that have a flat surface. If you do ever go to change it then you need to remove all the left over paste as the second time round the hard paste acts as and insulator and will give incorrect readings. Some sensors just don't read the right temp and should be checked before installing.

So this morning I watched the Ultimaker time-lapse of the Giant Ultibot using the 0.8mm nozzle on the Olsson block. At the end it showed a bunch of settings so I though I would give it a try. But if I keep the stated 150 micron layer height, 8% infill and 50mm/s print speed then it comes to 26 hours. I cant minimize the wall thickness as its set to 0.8mm and top/bottom thickness is 0.6mm Both i believe is to small but any bigger and the time just keeps getting longer. The settings posted should really include wall thickness and top/bottom thickness as well as these can be key to replicating a print like this. If this is just incorrectly calculated time by cura then its quite misleading and makes you think you have the wrong settings. Maybe I'm just missing something.

Is it actually retracting between the towers? You may need to adjust the minimum extrusion and travel if it's not.

That is way to cold for that speed. You should be printing at 30mm/s at that temp. 100mm/s is very fast. It's ok to print at that speed but you need to be a lot hotter and quality won't be that great.

you need to show your speeds and layer heights. Also retraction lengths etc. It looks like hairs or very thin strands. this maybe because you are printing to cold for that material. It looks like you have lines not touching on the base which also points to temp to low.

haha cool

There is no way that you can print it as smooth as the top. One option is to cut the model in half at the most flat spot then rotate so each end is on top. Then glue each half together. But if you want it all one piece then It's just a matter of filing it, then smoothing it with chloroform, ethyl Acetate, acetone dip or you can quickly go over it with a blow torch.

Wohoo Good to see all the other entries and there was some tough competition. Keep at it @grpiotr91 as there are more chances to win. Really enjoyed seeing how people experimented and came up with creative entries. I hope a lot more join in for the next one as we can all learn from these experiments. I learnt that going to cold caused to much curling and hairs. Cant wait to see Part 2's results.

This can be printed without the Stringing it will just take some time to experiment with the settings for that material. But once you get it then you can record the settings for another simular print. If you change to a different color you may need to tweek your settings slightly. The best way to fix it is to either chop the model into a small strip or print 2 or 3 towers the width of the gap to save on material. No point testing on the full size. I would stick to 30mm/s for all print speeds and have 250mm/s travel speed for starters. High travel helps to break strings as it leaves one side and there is less time for oozing as its traveling. 30mm/s gives a good finish and allows for cool printing. Now start dropping the temp. Keep going till it fails. You should have found a sweet spot. If you still have Stringing then print at that temp and now try increasing the retraction distance 0.5mm each time. You can play with z-hop also. Make sure your bowden is tight and doesn't move. Always use good quality filament. I would only print this in PLA. Fans on 100%. Olsson Block with smaller nozzle would definitely help.

You may need to do an atomic pull to clean the nozzle. but there is a lot of information about extrusion issues in the support section.

I guessing this is quite small. Nothing to compare the size to. But what you are experiencing is the print is getting to hot. When you have a large print, as the nozzle moves around the fans blow on the whole print and it take quite a while to the hot nozzle to reach an area where is has previously been. This allows the plastic to cool and go hard enough to not be effected by more hot plastic being up on top. Small objects don't get this chance to cool and end up getting hotter and hotter till you have a blobby mess. To fix this try printing 2 at once. this means as one is printing the other is cooling and if you have them side by side the fans with blow on one while printing the other.

It normally comes with the latest release of CURA and you install it in cura under Machine, install default firmware. You should give This one a try. Its great.

They are self lubricating and not meant to be oiled. Oiling them increases the friction so i would run them dry.

It says "no photos" above the avatars on 4 different "prints" Yes mine has 3 photos but says "No Photos" above my avatar on the main page and no arrows to go to the next prints. it does scroll if you drag it across though.

There is a problem with the prints section. newly added prints are showing No Photos even though there are photos loaded. Also there are no arrows on the side of the image to move to the next one so you don't actually know if there are more to look at.

Forgot to ad the Link to mine. Glad to see another entry come in. I guess the others are waiting for the next one???

Its probably just blackened the high spots on the shaft. bronze bushes tend to blacken shafts. I wouldn't worry to much as long as it moves freely. This happens to pneumatic cylinders and at work we have ones with 10's of millions of cycles that still run fine. If you see a scratch marks or de-lamination then there is concern to replace it and the bush.

Well What do you define as a "good print"? To me that means every detail in the model has to be present. both supports and hands need to be there plus the antennae, No ugly overhangs or bad stringing.? I printed one the size of a piece of rice. Yeah you can tell its meant to be a robot but no details.

You can also print a low friction spool holder. Both Robert and I have one on youmagine that mounts like the original one. Or there are heaps of other styles to choose from. I like to replace the rear fan with sunon MC25060V2-A99 just to make it nice and quiet. There are ducts to help with cooling for that fan 2 like this one. There isn't much evidence on most mods to prove one is better than another or even helps at all so some comes down to what you believe is best.

The Olsson block normally require less heat at it has a longer heat zone. But the fans do cool the tip as you state. You can try this extension and see if your temp settings come back to normal. If not you may have a bad pt-100 temp sensor.