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Everything posted by tinkergnome
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3dSolex Installation Support
tinkergnome replied to carsten's topic in Third party products & modifications
Sorry, but i guess you got it wrong... The (so called) "TF2K 300C" combo consists of an "TFT 255C" plus an additional "I2K" wafer chip. And it works fine for PLA. "Only for ABS" belongs to the "IPM Coupler" -
If you had bought a UT2 last week, would you sent it back ?
tinkergnome replied to Edel's topic in Coffee corner
Those things happen all the time - and not only with consumer products... Personally i would try to stay calm and keep it in perspective, look at the benefits...: - let others struggle with the teething problems of the new model - evaluate the upcoming reviews first - later i can decide if i have a need for the upgrade kit or not... In the meantime: make use of my "old" model, wait and see..., and don't fret... (just my 2ct.) -
3dSolex Installation Support
tinkergnome replied to carsten's topic in Third party products & modifications
I compiled the recent release for a max. temperature of 300°C. You will need it, if you want to verify the 300° promise from Carl... Look for "TF2K 300C Combo" I agree with Arjan: i don't think that the brass block will be affected, but if you use the higher temperatures with the standard hotend, the PTFE coupler will degrade quite fast. -
Firmware upgrade for use with E3D v6
tinkergnome replied to savak001's topic in Third party products & modifications
The "Heater error" is triggered if the nozzle heater is fully powered for more than 30 seconds and the temperature does not increases at least by 10°. It's a security feature to preserve you from burning down the house, if the temperature sensor doesn't work properly... I was told, that the E3DV6 has a bigger thermal mass than the default hotend. The heating takes a bit longer, especially if you use higher temperatures - so this may be the explanation. ..and the reason why i recently made the period of time adjustable. You can try to increase the value a bit, until the error disappears. But please keep in mind the security aspect - i don't recommend to disable it completely! Advanced -> Preferences -> Heater timeout -> Period of max. power -
Error Tried printing out of printing area
tinkergnome replied to keith-hobley's topic in UltiMaker Cura
Another idea: an incorrect read operation from the sd card can also lead to weird commands. You could try to use a different sd card (preferably a different brand). -
Hast recht - mea culpa... Man ersetze M0 mit G4... jetzt aber! G4 S20
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ended Community Contest, part 7 | The Final
tinkergnome replied to SandervG's topic in Coffee corner
Ok, i think i have to clarify: Mine was a non-competitive entry, after all there is this rule: Very important: Any resemblance to a living person is purely coincidental, likewise the resemblance to cats! @Titus: it's just a copy of an idea from @ultiarjan Not really neccessary, but funny to play with.. -
Ultimaker 2 Go X or Y Axis Error on First Start Up
tinkergnome replied to LiquidCrimson's topic in UltiMaker 3D printers
Because this is a new printer, i recommend to contact the reseller first. But basically: yes - perhaps a connection came loose during transport - or a cable was damaged....? -
Mmhhh, Pause ist M0, meinst Du das? Nur "M0" wartet, bis jemand am Drucker die Taste drückt. Man kann auch (oder in diesem Fall: muss) zusätzlich die Länge mit angeben, M0 S10 macht 10 Sekunden Pause.
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Underextrusion Problem on smaller layers
tinkergnome replied to ELLOMS's topic in Materials & profiles
It doesn't look like underextrusion to me. Is it printed hollow? I think it's more a problem of "non closed top surfaces" then with small areas...? Perhaps it only needs some infill or more top layers (and/or more shells)? Also printing the shells "outside-in" could help. Which slicer do you use? -
Ultimaker 2 Go X or Y Axis Error on First Start Up
tinkergnome replied to LiquidCrimson's topic in UltiMaker 3D printers
During "Home head" the printhead should move simultaneously in the x and y direction. It seems to me that the y-axis doesn't move at all. If you're lucky it's just a loose connector on the board. -
HELP! ERROR - STOPPED "Temp sensor" on UM2 extended
tinkergnome replied to hoi711's topic in UltiMaker 3D printers
Didier, don't mix it with the "Heater error" - that's a different thing... A "Temp sensor" error is triggered if the sensor reading yields to less than 5°C or more than 275°C. What's the printing temperature? -
Z Axis Over Stepping After HBK Upgrade
tinkergnome replied to the_schire's topic in UltiMaker 3D printers
The steps/mm for the z-axis have to be changed from 533.33 to 200.0 UltiController: "Control -> Motion ->Z-steps/mm" and "Store memory" or make an addtion to the start gcode: M92 Z200 -
Hallo @rasenmuster, mit "kreuzförmiger Wandstruktur" ist vermutlich "Infill" gemeint? Mit "quickprint" und "normal" wird das mit 80mm/s gedruckt. Das ist vermutlich einfach zu schnell für das Material (bei der Temperatur). Wechsel in Cura zu den "full settings", übernimm die Einstellungen wie vorgeschlagen und stelle auf dem "Advanced"-Tab alle Geschwindigkeiten auf maximal 40mm/s (was standardmässig schon darunter liegt, kann so stehen bleiben). Dann mach damit einen neuen Versuch. Viel Erfolg!
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Hi @izzy, so - you want to split an STL-file into multiple parts? If you have access to Simplify3D it's a single click (Mesh -> Separate Connected Surfaces). Here is another way using netfabb basic.
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ended Community Contest, part 7 | The Final
tinkergnome replied to SandervG's topic in Coffee corner
Recently a gnome tramped into the headquarter for a spot check. Was it a remote relative? I don't know... Here are some snapshots which were leaked to us... The face of the employee is blanked out to ensure absolute anonymity. Come on - go above and beyond! One week left... As you can see - i had some fun during the holidays... -
Ähem..., Jörg - Du hast dem Start-Gcode ein paar Kommentare hinzugefügt... da will ich schwer hoffen, dass das keinen Effekt hatte... In Cura kann man solche Sachen mit dem Plugin "Tweak At Z" erreichen. Bei sehr vielen "tweaks" wird das irgendwann etwas unübersichtlich, aber im Prinzip funktioniert das genauso wie in S3D. Oft kann man die Lüfter auch der Automatik überlassen (in den "Expert Settings" die Tooltips im Abschnitt "Cool" lesen). "Tweak At Z" wird z.B. hilfreich, wenn man Überhänge in bestimmten Höhen hat und ähnliches. Neugierig bin ich jetzt, was der Grund der Frage war... - kann Cura etwas, was S3D nicht kann, oder warum wechselst Du den Slicer?
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M500 not saving mods
tinkergnome replied to savak001's topic in Third party products & modifications
The whole story begins there... We're on... -
UM2 Print Random Banding Problem
tinkergnome replied to vintagefuturist's topic in UltiMaker 3D printers
To exclude an overheated stepper driver as the reason: you could try to reduce the motor current for the z-axis a bit (approx. 10% lower) - you can adjust it via "Motion settings" on the printer. But i also see those lines from time to time if i use cheap filament (with unequally diameter) -
I have to second this. Personally i wouldn't touch the default setting for your setup, it's there for a reason... It's adjustable for users with alternative hotends and a different thermal mass (for example e3d). Instead - ramp up the fan speed slowly (increase the value of "Fan full on at height" if you use Cura) and don't use the fans for the first layer. Or... switch back to a fan shroud with a closed bottom, like the one from Labern - it works like a charm - even with a weak heater cartridge.
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@RetromanIE There's only one adjustable setting that is related to this: Advanced -> Preferences -> Heater Timeout -> Period of max. power Can you check this? The default is 30 sec. A "heater error" is triggered if the nozzle heater is driven with maximum power and the temperature doesn't rise by (at least) 10°C within this period of time.
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Firmware upgrade for use with E3D v6
tinkergnome replied to savak001's topic in Third party products & modifications
Yep. I made a short test just now, it should look like this: ... >>>m301 p25.14 i1.61 d98.46 SENDING:M301 P25.14 I1.61 D98.46 ok p:25.14 i:1.61 d:98.46 >>>m500 SENDING:M500 Settings Stored ... -
Firmware upgrade for use with E3D v6
tinkergnome replied to savak001's topic in Third party products & modifications
AFAIK all commands are case sensitive, but - looking at the script - i think that pronterface is converting it to uppercase before sending. But it's a good point and worth a try! A M503 between each change doesn't hurt - but there should really be a response message with the new values on the serial console after sending the M301... Factory reset is not silly, but will probably not help in this case. These settings are from the standard "ConfigurationStore" - i've not tinkered with it... i promise -
@OmegaCO - Es wird wohl das hier sein: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34778
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Nö, das nützt auch nix... Wenn von SD-Karte gedruckt wird, gibt's am Ende immer ein G28 und ein M84 - außerdem gehen alle Heizungen und der Lüfter auf null. Das ist völlig unabhängig vom Slicer (oder vom "gcode-flavor") und würde sich auch mit S3D nicht ändern.... Der einzige Unterschied am Druckende ist, dass für "UltiGCode" noch die "end-of-print-retraction" dazukommt. Nur wenn über USB gedruckt wird, hätte man das selbst in der Hand, aber damit ist "UltiGCode" sowieso außen vor... Die einzige andere Möglichkeit, die mir einfällt, wäre eine Pause nach dem letzten Layer, das kann man natürlich im End-Skript einbauen. Ich mach das manchmal, wenn ich ein Objekt in mehrere Teile aufsplitte und mit der nächsten Datei oben drauf drucken will. Dann bleibt das Heizbett noch solange auf Temperatur, bis jemand auf "Resume" drückt. Vielleicht geht das sogar mit dem "Pause at height" Plugin - das müsste man ausprobieren. Allerdings zählt dann die komplette Wartezeit in der Statistik als "printing time"... Naja, irgendwas ist ja immer... ;-)