tinkergnome

Another example: I never printed with ABS, but my left PTFE is in use for approx. 400 printing hours at temperatures between 240 and 250°C. It is assisted by an I2K washer and looks like new... I2K rules! ...and although only one nozzle is usable at a time - i adjusted both to the same height anyway - just for convenience. (i like it easy and don't want to re-level the buildplate on every change) It works flawless so far.

@ultiarjan I could not resist and made a copy of this approach. I had a second Olsson block laying around... (i mean ... as a spare part...) ...and i got an early christmas gift from @SandervG (resp. Ultimaker) - i found this one recently in the mailbox: Thanks again - i really appreciate it - and i think i found a good use for it. Assembled all parts together: As you can see - i also had some use of other community contributions. Fan shroud by @Labern, print head modification by @Izzy and countless other parts by @|Robert|. The power of open source! Now i'm able to test the dual extruder version of the firmware for myself... I selected the second extruder as primary and made a short test print: Hey - it works!

Konkrete Tips sind immer schwierig, persönliche Vorlieben spielen da eine große Rolle. Ich komme mit FormFutura EasyFil besser zurecht als mit Colorfabb. Aber im Prinzip druckt sich beides praktisch wie von selbst... Günstiger wäre Das Filament, mit praktischen Erfahrungen kann ich dazu aber nicht dienen.

Also wenn Du schon so emotional an die Sache herangehst.... ... könntest du auch mal versuchen, den Drucker eher so wie ein Kind zu behandeln... Das würdest Du doch auch nicht so viele Stunden unbeaufsichtigt "spielen" lassen... Noch eine Idee zum "Grinding" - bei einem Druck mit sehr vielen "Retractions" steigt die Wahrscheinlichkeit dafür stark an. Falls das als Ursache in Betracht kommt, kannst Du versuchen die Retraction-Details im Slicer zu variieren, und damit die Anzahl selbiger reduzieren. Nachträglich ein bisschen "Stringing" zu beseitigen macht viel mehr Spass als "Grinding"... (ist das nicht ein schönes Deutsch... ) ...und 1A aufgewickeltes Filament bekommt man auf jeden Fall mit "umspulen" - und 1A selber wieder aufwickeln... Ich weiß, das kann seeeehhhhr nervig werden - funktioniert aber!

There are several real time videos on youtube - good source to compare the noise... Here is Observe the sound on layer change - if yours sounds similar - all is in best order. Yes - you can change the microsteps for the z-axis to 16 (instead of 8) with a jumper - and you can modify the max. speed for the z-axis. The sound changes a bit (probably) - but the difference is not huge. Don't worry and have fun with your printer!

That's a bit confusing... You are talking about the firmware for an Ultimaker2, right? ...at least the "UltiLCD2..." files are used for the display of the Ultimaker 2 - this would presume a #define ENABLE_ULTILCD2 The "ultralcd...." files are not needed - at least not for a stock UM2 - the same applies to "ULTIBOARD_V2_CONTROLLER" - are you using a different display? AFAIK you would never need both?

This would help, if he got a "Heater error"... Just to be sure: usually these error messages are showing "ERROR - STOPPED" in the first line... and the second text line looks like this? "Temp sensor" (without the appendix "...BED") This one is triggered, if the temperature sensor inside the heater block reads less than 5°C or more than 275°C. At which temperatures are you printing? There's no connector near the head, the wire goes all the way down to the electronics board. You can check the connection there. Or can you reproduce the error if you wiggle the cables a bit?

@Maverick71 - wait a minute... i doubt that any pid tuning (or different firmwares) would be useful in this case. If the temp sensor sends wrong readings - it is faulty and has to be replaced - point. Unfortunately the disassembling of the sensor is usually quite difficult - with other words: it's very easy to break the wires of the sensor - if you try it by yourself... And - yes - it is fixed with a screw. There is an assembly manual for the UM2 - most of the parts are very similar to the Extended. I'm afraid this one is still the best suggestion:

I earnestly doubt that the motor is too weak... Let's make another educated guess: do you have checked (or replaced) the PTFE coupler already? ...and... The bowden is clean and smooth? Have you tried a dust filter for the filament?

Ein Update auf die aktuelle Standard-Version 15.04.3 würde auch ausreichen - da ist ein Bugfix für das M42 Kommando enthalten. Und die Deine erste gcode-Variante sieht gut aus. x und y bei den anderen Varianten sind wohl eher Platzhalter, wo hast Du das gefunden? Wenn ich das richtig in Erinnerung habe, ist der LED-Pin vom UM2 "P8", aber das ist der Default und kann einfach weggelassen werden.

Hi @craftee, if you want to install this firmware you can download the appropriate *.hex file for your printer (from the link above) and install it with Cura and "install custom firmware"... ...but... ... ...it still does not automatically fixes all printing issues... (i'm working on it... ) I gradually made some minor changes on the user interface and - as a side effect - the amount of the "end-of-print" retraction is adjustable (V15.09 or later - Advanced -> Preferences -> Retraction settings) BTW: there was a short - but similar - discussion recently.

20mm is the default "end-of-print" retraction on the UM2 - from the start on...? AFAIK this is only relevant if you use Cura with the gcode-flavor "UltiGcode". Do you made any changes on this side lately? Which slicer do you used before? In addtion - there was a firmware issue - if you pause a running print and subsequently abort it the end-of-print retraction was doubled. This is fixed with Cura/Firmware version 15.04.1 (or later). I think, the current version is V15.04.3 - the last digit is important.

There is an easy solution, if you own a 3D printer... ...print at least one of this to remind you the nozzle size..., and print a couple of these in several colors (or materials) to store (and separate) all your different nozzles. Thanks to the designers for these brilliant ideas.

Interesting math either way... I found this (fairly old) discussion on the RepRap forum. As far as i understand, "jerk" is the derivation of acceleration (mathematically)... ...but... ... in Marlin it is not implemented this way (strictly speaking). I may be wrong, but i think it's simply the maximum change of speed at which Marlin joins two segments in the planner. Edit: You should also take a look at this thread - with a detailed explanation from @gr5.

@Labern - any news about this? Is it working?

I also didn't make it... but it's no secret format... It's a (sort of) XBM aka X Bitmap. Commonly used together with the Adafruit GFX-library. There are tools to convert a monochrome bitmap, no need to count the pixels manually... ...for example this one. What's your intention...?

@markusmaker - you quoted the filament sensor support, it's there - but not related to octoprint or usb... I assume that you wanted to reference to the announcement of @frederiekpascal? He asked me yesterday if one could replace the boring "Printing with USB..." message with some useful informations. I promised to put it on my virtual todo list... So regarding this, the answer is: no - not yet - be patient - stay tuned.. Or are you even interested to contribute...?

As far as i can see - it's the intended behavior. It acts like a safety switch. On any error all motors and heaters are stopped and the display shows the error message until you shut it down. You can start from here, if you want to explore...

@mnis has submitted a reliable solution for the 5V fan nearly a year ago. Perhaps it's time to reawaken his brilliant idea?

You should do those things with caution - sometimes i commit changes and test it later... ...but last weekend should be ok... As JohnK said, you can disable the heater timeout (Advanced -> Preferences -> Heater timeout). Just reduce the value until it shows "off". And here is the source of your inconvenience....

The "Change Material" wizard also overrides temporary the max. speed and acceleration for the E axis before it starts the "unload" move. Perhaps something to consider... #define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 100#define FILAMENT_LONG_MOVE_ACCELERATION 30 gcode should be M203 resp. M204 And the motor current is (temporary) reduced to 2/3 of the normal value with the following comment: //Set the E motor power lower to we skip instead of grind. gcode == M907 You're getting closer...

Since we are a bit off topic anyway...: I also use the "|Robert|" - (aka "lazy atomic") method since i first heard about it. The only drawback was... i too often hit the edge of the table with my hand... ouch! I don't like a fully automatic system for this kind of stuff - some things are better controlled by hand... but... (see above ) That's the main reason for the enhanced "Move material" menu of the tinker firmware... I use it for a kind of "electro-atomic" pull. goto "Move material" and wait until the nozzle temperature raised up - move the printhead to the front in the meantime (if you like) move the filament forward until it comes out of the nozzle (like a normal "priming") reduce the target temperature down to the "atomic pull" value (about 85° for PLA) move the material forward - a bit further from time to time - to hold the pressure - (a few thenth of a millimeter every few seconds) - until the temperature goes below 160° (approx.) wait until the pull temperature is reached - you can remove the oozed material in the meantime (for example... ) use the "pull" function for a few seconds to pull out the material from the nozzle. With other words: let the feeder motor do the hard work...no more dents in the table... finally: open the arm of the |Robert|-feeder and pull out the rest of the material by hand - cut the tip off and store it in its box until next time... for the next print: push in the material by hand as far as possible, close the arm of the feeder and prime the nozzle (similar to step one and two) ...actually - writing it down took nearly as long as doing it.... ...and most important: no more dents in... you know... Anyone willing to translate this list into gcode?

Maybe a missing tickmark here?

Hi Richard, there's a missing "S" between the numbers, but i assume this is only a mistake in writing. Marlin ignores the digits after the point, but works just fine if you send a "M106 S39.5000". Your example sets the fan speed to 15%. Although floating point numbers in this place are odd, this is not the problem here. My suspicion: For UltiGCode the value of the M106 command will be multiplied with the fan percent setting of the current material of the printer... A value of 10% there would explain your symptoms. Can you check this? BTW: I published a release 15.10.2 yesterday with a small bugfix for the "pause issue" you reported. Till then!