tinkergnome

A baud rate of 250000 is the correct value for an Utlimaker2. Are you using the printrun/pronterface from www.pronterface.com, or something different? Another approach: Copy the two commands (M301 and M500) into a (plain) textfile, put a M501 in front of it (better safe than sorry) - rename the file with an extension of *.gcode and just "print" it.

Not in my experience, the fan speed is increased as well. I can only speak about an UM2 with Olsson block - 8mm/s at 200°C for PLA seems to work fine. I think you're right - if in doubt - there are so many parameters to explore...

Perhaps you tried printing out of the printing area...? Seriously: - which slicer, which firmware version? - what differs? is at all the same file/model? - did you changed something? Perhaps a wrong printer profile in the slicer? - perhaps a damaged gcode file (have you checked the file with a gcode viewer?)

@Titus: Congratulation - it's well deserved - you were the only one who doesn't dreaded the effort! I assume it's a combination of and Indeed... 0.1mm layer height, the basic speed was 35mm/s but reduced to 85% for the outlines, 20% infill (*), PLA 198°C. Another important detail for small stuff is probably: minimal layer time 12 seconds, this reduced the speed for the top layers down to 8mm/s (approx.), and enough cooling..., hydrogen was printed with 8 pieces at a time and 2 or 3 at a time for the bigger ones. (*) i have a suspicion, that the infill percentage is not exactly comparable between Cura and Simplify3D, but perhaps this is only my personal impression... Regarding the letters: I didn't scaled the provided STL files, but changed the parameters in the scad file and generated new ones. The "hydrogenDiameter" was set to 11 for my example. And i changed the size of the text to 4 (take a look at line 97 of the scad file - if you're interested) I don't know if this would break the rules of the contest - but it's a construction set, isn't it? (and it doesn't matter in my case) Let's see what comes next...

Ja, das liegt nahe - passiert aber nur, wenn vorher noch keine anderen Einstellungen gespeichert waren. Anderenfalls bleiben die stur im EEPROM liegen... ...es sei denn, man macht nach jedem Firmware-Update auch ein "Load failsafe" (oder wie das heißt - beim Ultimaker2 heißt das "Factory Reset" - das trifft es irgendwie besser). Aber dann ist eben gleich _alles_ wieder auf Standard - das kann ja durchaus bei einem gebrauchten Drucker auch gewollt sein... Die ursprüngliche Frage ist aber nach dem Umbau auf "heated bed" schon öfter aufgetaucht. Und ich lese ja auch noch gar nicht so lange hier mit... Was mich zu der Annahme verleitet, das die "Steps/mm" in der Montage-Anleitung wohl nicht erwähnt werden...

Dann müssen auch die Steps/mm für die z-Achse angepasst werden. Wenn vorher die Firmware ohne HBK installiert war, passiert das nicht automatisch. Ich nehme an, die richtige Firmware-Version für das HBK hast Du schon installiert? Dann geht es am einfachsten, wenn alle Einstellungen (am Ulticontroller) auf die Standardwerte zurückgesetzt werden. Ich habe keinen UMO, evtl. gibt es auch direkt die Möglichkeit, die Steps/mm einzustellen? Der richtige Wert für die neue Z-Achse müsste 200 sein. Steht dazu nichts in der Installationsanleitung? Edit: habs gefunden, es sollte sowas geben: 'Control -> Motion ->Z-steps/mm' dann eine Ebene zurück und 'Store memory'

@skint - you can take a look and compare it for yourself... It's a license violence - point. Even one of the pictures is stolen. Brashly impertinent..., dorky-cocky... whatever...

It's pretty silent here - still no valid contribution? The tinker-cave became a temporary maker-cave again and i had some fun today. So - here is another non-competitive post. Each "chocolate sphere" represents a carbon atom - and all together are building C3H6O - better knows as "acetone" And i yet had a banana left...

I don't remember exactly, but i guess that you should get a response from the printer after the M500. Something like "Settings stored" or a similar message. If not, try the following: - make a note of your new PID parameters - disconnect and connect again (there should be a button in pronterface) - (re)send the M301 command - you should get an "ok." and your new parameters as response message - (re)send the M500 command - wait for message "Settings stored" (it takes less then 2 seconds) - Done. If you don't get the response messages then there is something wrong with the serial connection. Restarting the printer is not neccessary.

Dazu müsstest Du dich in UltiLCD2_menu_material.h austoben. #define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 50)#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 100#define FILAMENT_LONG_MOVE_ACCELERATION 30#define FILAMENT_FORWARD_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH - 50)#define FILAMENT_INSERT_SPEED 2 //Initial insert speed to grab the filament.#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 100 //Speed during the forward length#define FILAMENT_INSERT_EXTRUDE_SPEED 2 //Final speed when extruding Ich glaube, der Maximalwert für normale Retractions ist 45

Naja, etwas sinnvolles aber offenbar nicht, Dein Beispiel-Screenshot passt zum Makerbot, Marlin kann damit wahrscheinlich nicht so viel anfangen... Ich denke schon, das hier sind die Defaults, Y_MIN_POS war eigentlich auch Null, das ist das Einzige, was ich geändert habe. // Travel limits after homing#define X_MAX_POS 230#define X_MIN_POS 0#define Y_MAX_POS 230#define Y_MIN_POS 5#define Z_MAX_POS 230#define Z_MIN_POS 0

It was added (at the end of the list) in firmware version 14.12 with the name "UPET" and renamed to "CPE" since V15.04.1 (i think...). But there's also a limit of 16 entries, nothing will change if the limit is already reached.

Well, it's not a metric thread like all other srcews, its just a chipboard panel (or "SPAX") screw. The 2.5x16 defines the outer diameter and the length in mm. You should get it in any hardware store. Here is an example with image and a sketch with dimensions.

I think you're looking for partnumber 1358 - chipboard panel screw 2.5x16

@macguiver, you should probably better ask the Micro 3D Fans. They have a "ready to use" Cura profile for you.

Ich kann mir nicht vorstellen, das man dort die hex-Datei importieren kann. Was soll denn der Slicer damit anfangen? Es sollte völlig reichen, das Standard-Profil für RepRap zu verwenden. Naja, beinahe... da steht wahrscheinlich "ERROR: Tried printing out of printing area". Kann es sein, das das gleich beim Start passiert? Dann hat es wohl mit Deinem "Starting Script" zu tun. Position Y = 0 ist nicht erreichbar. Y "homes" bei 230 und der Druckbreich ist 225, deshalb würde der Druckkopf bei Y-Werten unter 5 vorne gegen den Rahmen fahren. Wenn Du es trotzdem probieren willst, kannst Du ja mal am Drucker den Minimum-Wert für Y ändern (Advanced->Preferences->Print area). Die ursprünglichen Werten in der zweiten Zeile von Deinem Skript waren wahrscheinlich X5 Y10, das passt besser.

The Cura plugin has parameters for this, hasn't it?

To be honest - i never made such calibrations (or thought about it...) Perhaps there is slightly hardware problem? You could try to check (and tighten) the belts. Or perhaps it's just the model that shrinks at a different rate at the other axis? Perhaps i'm wrong, but you're talking about the precision of the "Axis steps per mm", right? I just thought that there's no need for a more precise adjustment..., if i was wrong i can easily change it for the next release. Till then, you can connect to the printer with pronterface and change the settings with (manually) gcode commands. For example: ;set axis steps per unitM92 X80.00 Y80.00;store settingsM500

@Titus - you have eagle eyes... It's all printed - just a close (dutch) collaboration of an Ultimaker2, FormFutura and a bit of Colorfabb. I guess i would get malus points if i try to paint something... One can simply use Cura with the PauseAtZ plugin and change materials mid print (don't know if this is possible on an UMO?). In this specific case i used Simplify3D and splitted the job in four processes starting (and stopping) at different z heights (four separate gcode files) - it was a bit easier this way. But quite a few of material change cycles... Yes - a bit of effort - but a lot of fun! Edit - regarding the settings: i did nothing weird... With the exception of the tiny robots it's all printed from PLA with a 0.4 nozzle. Relatively slow (30 - 35mm/s) at about 200°C. Fan was only at 35%, i use the fan shroud from @Labern - i assume it has a high efficiency factor? I think the details also related to the material - i made good experiences with PLA from FormFutura. And last but not least - the JET nozzles from 3DSolex perhaps? I never compared it with others, i only have those...

Hi @savak001, to "tune" the PID settings a recompile of the firmware is not neccessary. You get some basic instructions if you follow the links above (from Arjan). In short: connect the printer with USB open pronterface and connect to the printer manually send the described gcode commands to the printer the recommended values for the p, i and d coefficents are printed on the serial console after the autotune cycles are completed store the new values in the printers EEPROM - (using the described gcode commands) you have to repeat these steps only after a factory reset The PID autotune is not (yet) executable from within the firmware, but it's already on the wishlist. This would probably make such things a bit easier. Anyway - you've managed to change the complete hotend - those banal things should be a piece of cake for you.. Edit: the maximum allowed hotend temperature is increased to 300°C for the recent "tinker" version, don't try this with a stock hotend... and if you need to go even higher.. just ask...

Yep. STEP is a text format. Just save the raw file as "1320-B2P-B.STEP" ...or for example in firefox: right click on the "RAW" button and choose "Save target as..." ...or download the whole archive as a zip file - and keep it for the next time...

Ok, here is my story of today: I decided to make the frame from gold and bronze. The intention was an extra motivation for the fire breathing successor. As an extra tribute i printed on a cold buildplate covered with bluetape. During the print, some cute prying Ultimaker robots came by. I really don't know where they came from, but they are very interested. I guess they like the sound and the vibrations... I think the UMO deserved itself a bit more color - it ended up in a lot of material changes. The heated bed kit arrived just in time, i apologize for the stuff that is strewn all over the floor... i was in a hurry... Some more pictures in the print section.

No no, the lifetime statistics stays always untouched. Actually only the version numbers are deleted and after the restart the defaults are loaded. Search for doFactoryReset() in UltiLCD2_menu_maintenance.cpp.

No STL, but the STEP files are published here. You should be able to convert it to STL, if in doubt you can use FreeCAD for this job.